Racer vs Racer 2?

[tvanwho]

Need to know the differences between the 2 machines and which is most user friendly and easiest to use for coin/relic hunting mostly in black dirt, low minerals,farm fields,parks, school yards.
I want VCO, at least 3 tone audio tone id, 10 inch on a quarter or dime, easy to pinpoint, easy on my elbow,accurate depth, ID meter,notching,able to pick out good targets from trash. I am used to Ace 250 and MXT. Hope it is a BIG step up?
Thanks.

-Tom V.

 

[Tom Slick]

I got the Racer just after its release and then switched to the Racer 2 when it came out. I think the performance between the two is just about the same, or as close to being the same as two different detectors can be. The extra features are what sold me on the Racer 2. I figured, liking the Racer as much as I did, then having the same detector with added features would just be a bonus. I wasn't disappointed. The Racer is pretty much a turn on an go detector. Turn on, toggle over to Mode, Set the gain and ID filter level - Ground Balance - Hunt. The Racer 2 has quite a bit more settings but you can save your settings on the Racer 2 so it can be an actual turn on and go machine as long as you're hunting the the same type environment, other wise you have to make a number of changes. The Racer checks off all your boxes except Notch. If you want Notch then you'll have to get the Racer 2. On the Racer 2 it's - Turn on - toggle over to Mode - set Gain - Set ID Filter - Set Notch - Set Tone Breaks - Set Tones - Set Iron audio volume - Save - Ground Balance - Hunt. A bit more complicated than the Racer but being able to save the settings are a great feature. I have two basic programs that I keep on a laminated pocket sized cheat sheet. One for park coin hunting in high trash areas and another I use for hunting iron infested ghost town type sites. The cheat sheet keeps me from having to remember what I like and keeps me from missing something. I make final adjustment to the settings based on each site or targets I'm searching for. Another thing is the Racer 2 has wireless headphones available and I love em. I usually take two Racer 2's with me on a trip and, each set with a different coil, just in case.
If it were me hunting just farm fields, looking for any and all non-ferrous, I'd just use the Racer with no Notch.

 

[Cal_Cobra]

Tom can you share your cheat sheet settings?

 

[volpe]

I'd like those settings as well. I got my R2 in Sept and have never seen a detector, let alone used one before, I can use any and all hints/help I can get.

Would like to see experienced users, you, Keith Southern, Monte.....write a book. I just dig everything, lots of trash, but dug some nice things as well.

 

[squirrel1]

Need to know the differences between the 2 machines and which is most user friendly and easiest to use for coin/relic hunting mostly in black dirt, low minerals,farm fields,parks, school yards.
I want VCO, at least 3 tone audio tone id, 10 inch on a quarter or dime, easy to pinpoint, easy on my elbow,accurate depth, ID meter,notching,able to pick out good targets from trash. I am used to Ace 250 and MXT. Hope it is a BIG step up?
Thanks.

-Tom V.

Big step up???

Depth probably not.
Separation yes,,,but if you hunt in places with lots of nails and iron,,,smaller coil or 5x10" do well.

Racer 2,,, get that one,,,has more user options over Racer 1.
Better stock coil too.

And will have better resale value should you decide to part with it.

Racer 2,,I consider for price paid to be one of the best coin hunters in iron infesrted sites. But get a smaller coil,,,,you won't be disappointed.

I have had both racers,,,,Racer 2 I still have,,it ain't going anywhere,,,I do run some other more expensive detectors too,,,but the Racer 2 has its place in stable.

 

[Tom Slick]

Here's my cheat sheet. It's an Excel spreadsheet. I print it, fold it at the break, and run it thru a small laminating machine I have. Make them for many of my detectors and put it in my pocket if needed.
Front page is reminders or how to access some features, Back page are my starting settings for parks or ghost towns. The park program is a coins only program for trashy modern sites. For open park areas, schools or sports fields I use a DFX and BigFoot coil. Hope this helps.

Racer 2 Cheat Sheet
Notch: Select Notch use + or - to get to 1st ID
number to notch, pull trigger once, press + or -
for more numbers then pull trigger again.
Tone Break: Select in menu, pull trigger once,
use + or - buttons to move point, pull trigger
again to move cursor, + or - to move again.
iSAT: Higher is Faster
Use iSAT and Tracking in All Metal
Autio Tone: Select Pull trigger once to select
another group, + or - to change frequency
To Save: Select from menu and pull trigger
To Restore Select FD/Save press Left & Trigger
Flashlight: Pull back trigger and press UP button
Freq. Shift: Pull back trigger and press + or -

Three Tone Park Program
Gain 50, ID Filter 27, Notch out 33-42, 46-63
Tone break 29 & 75
Low 10 hz, mid 40 hz, high 70 hz
Iron Volume 0
Three Tone Ghost Town Program
Gain 95, ID Filter 2, Notch: none
Tone break 10 & 65
Low 10 hz, mid 40 hz, high 70 hz
Iron Volume 1
Nickel 30 -31, Zinc Penny 65-66
CopperPenny / Dime 79, Quarter 85-86
Gold Rings Ladies/Kids VDI 14-22 Mens 29 - 44

 

[Dave_E]

With my Racer 2 experience the 2 quick things I would add are:

- I like that the Racer 2 uses ID's 0 thru 10 for ferrous objects. The Racer uses 0 thru 40.

- I've noticed when I use my little OOR coil, the ID's are about 2 higher than when using the standard coil.

 

[Cal_Cobra]

Thanks Tom!

Looks like we're in sync on the Three Tone Ghost Town Program, but next time I'm park detecting I'll try out your program.

hh,
Brian