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RE: Whites Eagle IISL (1989)
- Thread starter rluka
- Start date
White's had a nicad battery pack built into one of those white battery holders, chargeable with a simple wall wart power supply.
Part number is 802-5185 4.8V Rechargeable Battery with 509-0020 or 509-0019 charger
I have used AA batteries in plastic adapters to load the C cell holder for a bit less weight. Do you really need to be carrying around 15-20 hours of battery on a 4-5 hour hunt?
I'd rather carry 4 extra AAs in the car, or even in my pocket.
Presumably, one could substitute high capacity NimH cells (C or AA with adapters) for alkaline C cells in the holder.
I gotta admit...these C cell White's felt a lot lighter 30 years ago!!
Great detector though. I thought it seemed a bit "faster" processing than the later Eagle Spectrum and XLT. Great audio. It was one of my mainstays for many years.
Part number is 802-5185 4.8V Rechargeable Battery with 509-0020 or 509-0019 charger
I have used AA batteries in plastic adapters to load the C cell holder for a bit less weight. Do you really need to be carrying around 15-20 hours of battery on a 4-5 hour hunt?
I'd rather carry 4 extra AAs in the car, or even in my pocket.
Presumably, one could substitute high capacity NimH cells (C or AA with adapters) for alkaline C cells in the holder.
I gotta admit...these C cell White's felt a lot lighter 30 years ago!!
Great detector though. I thought it seemed a bit "faster" processing than the later Eagle Spectrum and XLT. Great audio. It was one of my mainstays for many years.
Thanks for that info...exactly what I was looking for!!!!
So, your saying that I can load 4 AA batteries in plastic adapters.....That would be perfect for me.
You wouldnt have the Wall Wart part number.....I will have to check that out. I do have the rechargeable battery pack but when I plug in the Whites charger, it gets really hot. Is that normal?
All the best
Ron L
So, your saying that I can load 4 AA batteries in plastic adapters.....That would be perfect for me.
You wouldnt have the Wall Wart part number.....I will have to check that out. I do have the rechargeable battery pack but when I plug in the Whites charger, it gets really hot. Is that normal?
All the best
Ron L
J-ROB said:White's had a nicad battery pack built into one of those white battery holders, chargeable with a simple wall wart power supply.
Part number is 802-5185 4.8V Rechargeable Battery with 509-0020 or 509-0019 charger
I have used AA batteries in plastic adapters to load the C cell holder for a bit less weight. Do you really need to be carrying around 15-20 hours of battery on a 4-5 hour hunt?
I'd rather carry 4 extra AAs in the car, or even in my pocket.
Presumably, one could substitute high capacity NimH cells (C or AA with adapters) for alkaline C cells in the holder.
I gotta admit...these C cell White's felt a lot lighter 30 years ago!!
Great detector though. I thought it seemed a bit "faster" processing than the later Eagle Spectrum and XLT. Great audio. It was one of my mainstays for many years.
My whites charger is part number 509-0017. It is a totally "dumb" charger, I think....basically a 6.5VDC@400mA wall wart. Anything in that 6V range should work. The bettery is 4.8V.
Nicads are easy to charge. NiMH are somewhat trickier, need current limiting for safety.
What is getting hot...the charger or the batteries? The battery pack should get warm while charging due to current flow, not super hot though. If it is getting real hot, I'd suspect a shorted cell. Mu old packs charge up but do not seem to hold a charge very well.
Frankly, I never used the rechargeables, buying alkalines in bulk instead.
On my 5900 di Pro SL. I soldered one of those 9V snap connectors to the battery finger terminals and I plug in a 4 cell AA holder, using foam to take up the extra space in the battery compartment. Makes a big difference in weight over C cells, cause every little bit helps with these old boatanchors.
If you decide to try this, make sure you get the polarity correct!!
You can also get AA to C adapters which are plastic shells that fit AAs so they take up the space and assume the shape of a C cell. Load into stock battery holder and voila!
One thing I will mention: I had two Eagle II SLs, and 89 and a 90.5. Both would occasionally freeze up, especially when working under power lines (it seemed to me) and in deep urban locations where there was probably a lot of RFI, radio/cell antennas and whatnot. They way to fix this is to pop out the battery holder momentarily then slip it back in and turn on to reset. This would become a hassle if the 9V snap connector setup was in use. So try your machine with the stock battery holder for a while and see if this is a consideration with your unit.
Nicads are easy to charge. NiMH are somewhat trickier, need current limiting for safety.
What is getting hot...the charger or the batteries? The battery pack should get warm while charging due to current flow, not super hot though. If it is getting real hot, I'd suspect a shorted cell. Mu old packs charge up but do not seem to hold a charge very well.
Frankly, I never used the rechargeables, buying alkalines in bulk instead.
On my 5900 di Pro SL. I soldered one of those 9V snap connectors to the battery finger terminals and I plug in a 4 cell AA holder, using foam to take up the extra space in the battery compartment. Makes a big difference in weight over C cells, cause every little bit helps with these old boatanchors.
If you decide to try this, make sure you get the polarity correct!!
You can also get AA to C adapters which are plastic shells that fit AAs so they take up the space and assume the shape of a C cell. Load into stock battery holder and voila!
One thing I will mention: I had two Eagle II SLs, and 89 and a 90.5. Both would occasionally freeze up, especially when working under power lines (it seemed to me) and in deep urban locations where there was probably a lot of RFI, radio/cell antennas and whatnot. They way to fix this is to pop out the battery holder momentarily then slip it back in and turn on to reset. This would become a hassle if the 9V snap connector setup was in use. So try your machine with the stock battery holder for a while and see if this is a consideration with your unit.
I think the nominal voltage of an alkaline cell is 1.56 volts. Your batteries can be unused but losing voltage due to age. If you have a voltmeter you can measure the individual cells.
Another thing is that there are a lot of connections in the Eagle II battery box setup, and some are a bit funky. Never liked that two point pressure connection system for one thing.
if you measure the cells and they add up to 6.0 and them you install in battery holder and it's less than 6.0 at the terminals on the outside, then the contacts are probably dirty and need cleaning with contact cleaner or maybe naptha or alcohol in a pinch.
The detector will run fine on the 4.8V (starting voltage, fully charged) Nicad pack so there is no problem being at 5.4V. The detector will let you know when the battery voltage is too low!
Another thing is that there are a lot of connections in the Eagle II battery box setup, and some are a bit funky. Never liked that two point pressure connection system for one thing.
if you measure the cells and they add up to 6.0 and them you install in battery holder and it's less than 6.0 at the terminals on the outside, then the contacts are probably dirty and need cleaning with contact cleaner or maybe naptha or alcohol in a pinch.
The detector will run fine on the 4.8V (starting voltage, fully charged) Nicad pack so there is no problem being at 5.4V. The detector will let you know when the battery voltage is too low!
Good luck with that classic!
If you decide you're liking it, check out a 5.3 coil, e.g. Blue Max 600. That was my standard setup for many years. Relatively comfortable to swing compared with the stock 9" and when you figure out what the Eagle II is telling you, a formidable coinshooting combo! Lots of clues in the audio and the way the VDI numbers jump around or not.
When I think back on the dozens of detectors that I have owned over the years, the old Eagle II SL stands proud among them. It was a point in the development of detector technology that was -- and still is -- a good place to be.
If you decide you're liking it, check out a 5.3 coil, e.g. Blue Max 600. That was my standard setup for many years. Relatively comfortable to swing compared with the stock 9" and when you figure out what the Eagle II is telling you, a formidable coinshooting combo! Lots of clues in the audio and the way the VDI numbers jump around or not.
When I think back on the dozens of detectors that I have owned over the years, the old Eagle II SL stands proud among them. It was a point in the development of detector technology that was -- and still is -- a good place to be.
vlad
Well-known member
Nicad and NiMH are at 1.2 volts (as opposed to alkaline@ 1.5), and the detectors work just fine.
(Some NiMH can go as high as 3000 mAh---that is a lot of reserve)
For a while the Eagle 2 was my bread/butter detector; going into the "advanced" settings had some serious depth (and turning off discriminate {motion} offered incredible depth.)
There was a device called the "Iron Eliminator" that would null the unit on iron in no-motion and hit coins through nails (but you could use a 10 penny finishing nail in setup for same results.)
(Some NiMH can go as high as 3000 mAh---that is a lot of reserve)
For a while the Eagle 2 was my bread/butter detector; going into the "advanced" settings had some serious depth (and turning off discriminate {motion} offered incredible depth.)
There was a device called the "Iron Eliminator" that would null the unit on iron in no-motion and hit coins through nails (but you could use a 10 penny finishing nail in setup for same results.)
Advanced Options
These are the Adavnced Options for my detector..... Would you mind sharing what you did do to get better depth.
These are the Adavnced Options for my detector..... Would you mind sharing what you did do to get better depth.
vlad said:
vlad
Well-known member
I slowed down ground track, and SAT to the minimum; set track inhibit, hot rock & bc reject reduced by 1 number from factory.
Also used very minimum iron reject, and really cranked the sensitivity for motion as high as possible and the same for p.p. or all metal with discriminate turned off.
(wide open less trashed sites---cut the sensitivity for cluttered areas)
I do NOT recall if it has a transmit boost-but I increase that on Whites units with that feature. Try to get a larger DD loop from Mars, or Nel too---
in the range of 12X13; and a small sharpshooter around 6X8. (this loop about equal to a 5" concentric;
the DD's are like windshield wipers, narrow scan, full length and sees less mineral.)
Ground balance frequently and just take your time. (the disc off will amaze you with it cranked as to extreme depth, and there is no recovery speed to worry with--
its easy to distinguish multiple targets close together)
I do recommend the "iron eliminator" set up in non motion for hitting coins in iron--Monte might have/recall the directions-you can pm him (I used a 10 penny nail after selling my eliminator-
you can vary the iron reject by how close and the angle to the loop you hold it when hitting ground balance over nail in the air.)
Also used very minimum iron reject, and really cranked the sensitivity for motion as high as possible and the same for p.p. or all metal with discriminate turned off.
(wide open less trashed sites---cut the sensitivity for cluttered areas)
I do NOT recall if it has a transmit boost-but I increase that on Whites units with that feature. Try to get a larger DD loop from Mars, or Nel too---
in the range of 12X13; and a small sharpshooter around 6X8. (this loop about equal to a 5" concentric;
the DD's are like windshield wipers, narrow scan, full length and sees less mineral.)
Ground balance frequently and just take your time. (the disc off will amaze you with it cranked as to extreme depth, and there is no recovery speed to worry with--
its easy to distinguish multiple targets close together)
I do recommend the "iron eliminator" set up in non motion for hitting coins in iron--Monte might have/recall the directions-you can pm him (I used a 10 penny nail after selling my eliminator-
you can vary the iron reject by how close and the angle to the loop you hold it when hitting ground balance over nail in the air.)
vlad
Well-known member
I believe Whites bought the rights to it (message Monte here--or try to contact Jimmy Sierra Normandi, pretty sure they can fill in the blanks.)
It slewed the ground balance out of tune but it would allow some see-through of conductors among iron, though depth was not extreme. (Just for a specific situation,
sort of like a Compass 100kHz unit in iron but maybe more efficient)
And post on the Main Comparison Forum (where Whites posts are most often seen.)
It slewed the ground balance out of tune but it would allow some see-through of conductors among iron, though depth was not extreme. (Just for a specific situation,
sort of like a Compass 100kHz unit in iron but maybe more efficient)
And post on the Main Comparison Forum (where Whites posts are most often seen.)
I remember that . It was an object, about the size of a cigar tube, that you ground balanced your detector to. To fool it into thinking that iron was a part of the ground matrix, thus sort of seeing-through-nails. The maker advertised no loss of depth, and continued ability to get TID's. But :
a ) he was wrong about the no-loss-of-depth claim. You did indeed loose depth by a lot. You had to operate the coil swing in a similar way to the all TR-disc.: To hit the retune button just slightly off the ground. And then "scrub" fashion detecting, careful not to raise your loop.
b) The TID would continue to give read-outs, HOWEVER, it would not give the correct TID for objects that were masked. You would get a beep to hint at something conductive. But were not getting a correct TID.
c) IMHO : A person was better off simply getting an old 77b, than to fool with that iron-eliminator gadget.
a ) he was wrong about the no-loss-of-depth claim. You did indeed loose depth by a lot. You had to operate the coil swing in a similar way to the all TR-disc.: To hit the retune button just slightly off the ground. And then "scrub" fashion detecting, careful not to raise your loop.
b) The TID would continue to give read-outs, HOWEVER, it would not give the correct TID for objects that were masked. You would get a beep to hint at something conductive. But were not getting a correct TID.
c) IMHO : A person was better off simply getting an old 77b, than to fool with that iron-eliminator gadget.
vlad said:I believe Whites bought the rights to it (message Monte here--or try to contact Jimmy Sierra Normandi, pretty sure they can fill in the blanks.)
It slewed the ground balance out of tune but it would allow some see-through of conductors among iron, though depth was not extreme. (Just for a specific situation,
sort of like a Compass 100kHz unit in iron but maybe more efficient)
And post on the Main Comparison Forum (where Whites posts are most often seen.)
Lots of interesting info here about detectors from the past... Thanks for all that info
Tom_in_CA said:
J-ROB said:
Ditto. That was one of my favorite machines as well. Except mine was the '90, not the '89. The last incarnation got the 950 loop (with the hole in the center) and the black box. A good land machine, but it wasn't too good for wet salt beaches.
Various machines now spank it for depth. But during its era, it was a fun machine.