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Removing the control housing from the explorer

W

WessThompson

New member
okay guys...

I need to know how to get the back of the control housing off the shaft/stem. I could probably figure it out...but would prefer that I can get it back on after *hahah*

I have checked the machine over quite a bit...and am making progress.

It is NOT the coil, coil wires, batteries, main board.

It IS one of...the keypad or the wiring harness.

I had the machine power up about 20 times today, and each time I tried to pack the guts back into the control housing, or close it up...it shut down. So...it's movement/positioning causing the fault.

To me this screams wiring harness. I am almost certain of it. There is a damn wire in there...possibly two...causing this issue. Unfortunately, I can't get the back of the control housing off the stem so I can open up the shaft to access all the wires. Has anyone done this!?!?


Thanks again! I am confident I'll have her up and running by the end of work tomorrow :)

Wess
 
isn't necessary.

So firstly, you don't have to remove the control box off the upper battery pod/handle stem . That stays on. Taking the control box of the stem is usually done for reasons other than servicing the inside of the Explorer generation of detectors(Quarto included).

If you
 
as much as I appreciate your taking the time to explain all of this to me...I have already done all of this. You are right though...it is a real treat...and that robbon cable connection certainly is a royal pain. Not sure why the didn't use the standard connection here...as this one slips out quite easily. I'm not a fan.

Anyhow, the "guts" of the control housing are all out...but my problem is actually in trying to open up the entire upper arm assembly. As you know I am sure, when you remove the screws along the side, and a couple at the back, and remove the plastic clip from the rear near the battery compartment...you can split the entire shaft/arm down the middle, all the way up to the control housing. HOWEVER...the rear of the control housing (which is still attached after one follows your procedure above) needs to be removed to open it all the way. This housing portion that remains is preventing me from splitting the arm all the way so I can easily access the wirings harness completely.

Thoughts??

Seems it is glued on or something...some kind of bonding!?

Thanks again

Wess
 
Yes. I do have a thought on this.

I forgot to mention though. You do not have to separate PCB1 and PCB2 to access the LCD PCB. You can keep those two together to get to the LCD board and remove it still attached to the control box front. That flat ribbon harness is actually part of a flexible PCB which is the base of the push button switches. It
 
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