Rusted Iron bottle cap?

[Fire Fighter 43]

I've seem to have figured out how to find all the rusted bottle caps with the Deus. Seriously how do you distinguish between the bottle caps and good targets. I've mainly been using Basic 1 Gmaxx and have loaded Andy's coin program from the handbook using 8Khz. I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out if it is a coin or a bottle cap. I think I dug over 24 today in 3 hours. Of all the detectors I've used I've never had this much trouble with the caps. Any advise or suggestions?

 

[samandnoah]

Check it by using a program that uses the 4kHz frequency. You can either go into the menu and just drop the frequency, or you can create a duplicate program adjacent to the program you're using, and flip over to it. For me, the screw caps usually either ring up around 83-85, or sometimes in the low 90s (that's using 12 kHz). When you switch to using the 4kHz frequency, if it is a legitimate target, you'll see the target ID DROP. If it is a bottle cap, you'll see a target ID HIGHER than what you were seeing before you switched. On some wine screw caps (which ring in lower for me, usually in the upper 70s), sometimes I'll get virtually the same reading (not higher) when switching to 4 kHz, but that still tells you the same thing because a good target will show a lower ID in 4 kHz than in 12 kHz (or 8 kHz). While air tests aren't valid for many uses, you can use an air test to see this target ID behavior in action and see it for yourself.

Good luck, and happy hunting!
Rich

 

[hamdit]

make a program with silencer on 4 (expert mode in reactivity), the bottle caps will sputter or even not to be heard.
but!!!! be caefull as the recovery speed will be slow, that's why i made a copy of my program to switch to.

 

[rks1040]

I've seem to have figured out how to find all the rusted bottle caps with the Deus. Seriously how do you distinguish between the bottle caps and good targets. I've mainly been using Basic 1 Gmaxx and have loaded Andy's coin program from the handbook using 8Khz. I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out if it is a coin or a bottle cap. I think I dug over 24 today in 3 hours. Of all the detectors I've used I've never had this much trouble with the caps. Any advise or suggestions?

I coin hunt in 8 kHz,and use the "wiggle back" method,to tell if it's a good target,and also to pinpoint the target. After you have the target centered on the coil,just wiggle it side to side fast,and pull the coil towards you. When the target leaves the front of the coil,it will "break up" or crackle,if it's a bottle cap. If it's a good target (coin) it will just drop off cleanly. Plus the target is right in front of the coil,so no pinpointing needed!

 

[Bill_S]

Sometimes if you swing over the suspected bottlecap while raising your coil the TID numbers will start to fall off. Usually going from the 90's down into the 70's or so. Most coins tend to hold the TID steady.

 

[Hauptmann aD]

Bottle caps are a pain. Material varies, so do the TIDs. Rust united with the wet ground does it's own to make them sound more sweet (sure, they are "antique" then.) Each Euro/Cent coin in Europe has a bottle cap with identical TID. And if you pass bottle caps with nice signals, you can also pass silver jewelry.
Best greetings from Germany
Olaf

 

[Big Boys Hobbies]

Do the minelab wiggle. Get the target centered and swing back and forth while drawing the coil to you. If the audio degrades right before signal falls off, BC. Same solid? Coin.

That method works very very well.

 

[pescadore]

Check it by using a program that uses the 4kHz frequency. You can either go into the menu and just drop the frequency, or you can create a duplicate program adjacent to the program you're using, and flip over to it. For me, the screw caps usually either ring up around 83-85, or sometimes in the low 90s (that's using 12 kHz). When you switch to using the 4kHz frequency, if it is a legitimate target, you'll see the target ID DROP. If it is a bottle cap, you'll see a target ID HIGHER than what you were seeing before you switched. On some wine screw caps (which ring in lower for me, usually in the upper 70s), sometimes I'll get virtually the same reading (not higher) when switching to 4 kHz, but that still tells you the same thing because a good target will show a lower ID in 4 kHz than in 12 kHz (or 8 kHz). While air tests aren't valid for many uses, you can use an air test to see this target ID behavior in action and see it for yourself.

Good luck, and happy hunting!
Rich

I usually hunt in 12Khz and verify my targets in 4Khz. I rarely ever dig bottlecaps and have used this method ever since I had my first Deus. I have dug targets after using this method many times and I haven't had it fail on me yet. No method is perfect but the swithch to 4Khz and see if the the TID raises or stays the same works for me.

 

[pulltabMiner]

I use the wiggle back method as many have mentioned. It is rare that I get a bottle cap that doesn't degrade to iron as I pull back. Works every time --except for very old, very flat, very deep bottle caps.