Safari TID lag or Locking - Concerned:confused:

[Bryannagirl]

I am new to my Safari. When swinging the coil the tones seem to update pretty fast related to target. But when in a trashy area I.e. most sites, some times the TID will lock on a number an regardless of what other targets you swing over the number will not change. Sometimes raising the coil and then setting it on the ground will unlock the TID again so it tracks the tones. I know the tones are most important to learn but sometimes it is nice to know especially when trying to learn what numbers different targets show. One other odd thing sometimes the screen will show no TID info and even when you swing over a good target no tone and no TID. This can go on for several seconds before tones and TID return.

Is this normal and if yes how do you deal with this situation.

Bryanna

 

[Hardtack1862]

You are new to this machine, its best not jump into the deep end of the pool first, learn to swim first. This machine is an easy detector to learn if you you take small steps in the learning stages. I would suggest do some bench testing I have spoke of in an earlier post. take your finds (good and bad) and start a chart and label it from -10 to +40 and take your samples and run them through and write them next to their TID #. this will get you more comfortable with the TID # and tones each will produce and build on this chart as you go along. Keep in mind this is only a reference for when your working in the ground you have things like ground mineralization, close by targets (good and bad) basically all types that you and the machine must sort out. Sensitivity settings are important, Auto is a good start at first and manual when you get comfortable with TID and tones because too much sensitivity can give false readings and tones all over the place. Go slow in your movement if you suspect you are in a trashy area and dig some targets. Use these in your bench test for TID#s and tones this will help you build your confidence in your learning curve. Now after you get more confident try changing your settings while bench testing, use your manual for reference things like ( sensitivity and depth relationship, your own custom programs, Accept and Reject settings, Trash Density settings, Conductive and Ferrous responses ( use your good and bad targets for reference). You cannot goof up the factory default settings, because remember the book will tell you how to get back the default settings if you get nervous of what you did. A big thing to remember when detecting, is to Noise Cancel first and every so often while hunting by holding the coil off the ground roughly one foot. Play and take it slow and you will be up to speed in no time.

 

[Mtnmn]

My safari does the exact same thing so it must be something that is normal for the Safari. I'm rejecting iron by (cross saving the coin and jewelry mode to the all metal mode) and I'm guessing that you also are using some form of disc. I haven't tried the Safari out in the all-metal mode to see if it will stop doing this (as it won't null in all-metal as nothing is being rejected), but it seems to be that by waiting for the Safari to stop nulling on a rejected target (such as raising it to get it out of the range of the rejected targets), it will usually reset itself and your back in business. I suspect that the reason it locks on to just one number is because at the moment of locking up, that was the strongest non-rejected signal being shown at that particular moment in time. My screen will also go blank from time to time, but it is a very minor problem and mostly seems to be that the Safari just busy trying to reset itself after having been locked on another target for awhile. All this is just conjecture on my part and I'm far from an expert on the Safari.

 

[Bryannagirl]

Thanks,
From what I can tell it is not something tha only happens to Safari I think the SE and Etrac have similar issues when in heavy trash. It is worst whe indoor air testing since I think there is way to much disc targets around. Really not a big issue in the field from what I can tell. Getting some clean ground or raising coil seems to clear it right up. Just a matter of learning the way she works and responds.

Thanks just wanted to make sure it was normal.

Bryanna

 

[dofbeer]

My SE was a pig in trash and fart slow on recovery but it did smash silver and bronze hard, WW1 bullets tiny as they are were pulled at surprisingly deep depths. I was never a big fan of my SE but have bought a Safari due to Its simplified menu layout.

 

[Prep1957]

Number one I do not like Pro Coil it is alright, but using the SEF coils 6X8,10X12 will make any Minelab detector a much better hunting experience,Why do you say, because it helps stop digging those IRON nails by 90 percent while still getting pro coil depth and it will make pinpointing much easier.

First thing you after putting batteries in your detector,Set to high trash,sensitivity to Auto until you get more time on machine.

Now standing in the place you are going to hunt you must find clean ground.Go to all metal,find a clean spot and noise cancel with COIL ON THE GROUND or you will lose depth.

Now set your Disc.I would recommend about 25 since you are new to Safari.

Start hunting and do not look at the target ID,You are using your ears to listen to the NULL not the tones.Why because all Minelabs work better accepting trash than rejecting(the NULL) this is slow recovery before threshold comes back.You should always pay attention to the Null and when Threshold comes back all the time or you are searching ground with the Safari/Etrac with detector basically off.while listening to recovery of null this will set your swing speed depending on trash content or how much Disc. you are using you may be hunting at crawl do not worry you will snipe coins next to nails.Pay attention to the NULL.

Quit looking at that target ID you are not ready to use it yet.Now keep hunting until you find a smooth sounding target that repeats from two directions if it pops, crackles,nulls_you are still listening to that null right? it probably is a rusty nail but if it sounds smooth still.Now look at your target ID it should not be bouncing that much also decide to dig.

The best way to use a Safari is all metal but it drives me insane.So I normally hunt in Stock Jewelery and dig repeatable targets above 20.Remember as I stated earlier Mine labs are better at accepting targets than rejecting, the lower your Disc the less nulling this will make you able to pick smooth signals out of trash,speed up your sweep,And limit the dead ground area caused by Nulling.You should be listening to hear high coin tone before even looking at target ID.

The Safari is equal to any Detector on the market at this time.If there was a better one I would buy it.I have been waiting for almost 2 years for a new improvement not happened yet.

Like all detectors they are stupid.They are calibrated for coin sized objects.The target ID is just a guide if it does not read accurate get over it it will read high enough for you to decide to dig.

Screen locking up,a lot of this will go away with getting rid of pro coil.Lowering your disc will help also when using Pro Coil.Think about it you told Safari not to accept anything below 30 it locked up for a while because you have not found another target above 30 yet.

 

[Bryannagirl]

Which coil would you recommend for my first replacement coil almost bought an NEL shooter coil but was not sure if it would help or not. Also what do you prefer ferrous sounds or conductive sounds? thanks for the tips. For right now I will need to make the best of pro coil. The Etrac users seem to love them.

 

[The Fog]

Well said Prep, good points for all. I think the most confusing part about the safari for new users is looking at the screen, the only time I look at it is for depth. That and if you are getting multiple unstable tones with periods of nulling over a target it is ALMOST always trash. Good targets will will ALMOST always give a good clean repeating tone. I stress almost in both cases because it's not 100% but pretty darn close.

 

[Prep1957]

I think if you look at Etrac Forum you will see a lot of them are using after market coils.I love my 8X6 easy to swing and will find silver dimes to 9 inches in Illinois,When hunting I might get fooled by 2 nails all day or 10 inch deep bottle cap,Because of its size you do not have to pinpoint, dead on everytime a real time saver.Also in heavy trash recovery it will tell you right where to cut your plug.If you try to use pinpoint on safari/etrac it will seek strongest target under coil at that time maybe pulling you 6 inches away from silver dime you are really trying to recover.with pro coil being bigger it is worse so a lot of that coil users cut huge plugs to compensate.That being said I think the Pro Coil will go a little deeper.The SEF 10X8 will match Pro Coil depth and is still not too heavy and not sensitive to iron nails.I had a friend had one(10x on Etrac told me to see if I could could hear deep target with my SEF 8X6 I could but was weak he was coming in clear Silver Washington Quarter at 11 inches 45 degree angle.My next coil soon will be 8X10.but 8X6 is heavy iron trash/park coil.

 

[coindgr]

I started using the safari in all metal and low trash density auto sensitivity,going very slow and letting the safari reset,walking around the target hitting it from different sides in loads of nails i would see a 37 or 38 pop up from all the iron hits with the sweet high coin pitch and give it a dig and to my suprise a wheat or a merc. I still get fooled some times but its part of finding the goodies in heavy trash areas. Im no pro by far and i learn more and more the more i use my safari, at first i thought i was a fool for trading in my other detector but i love this machine and will keep it for good ! I have started using manual sensitivity and doing ok in this hot virginia soil. I would like to get a sef coil in a fue months. Dont give up. HH

 

[Prep1957]

10X12 coil not 10X8 playing with new printer I got getting confused.

 

[1CoinAndRelicMan]

I am using the Minelab "FBS800" coil and really like it. Is anyone else using that one also?

 

[TreasureHawk]

From other poster....
"Number one I do not like Pro Coil it is alright, but using the SEF coils 6X8,10X12 will make any Minelab detector a much better hunting experience,Why do you say, because it helps stop digging those IRON nails by 90 percent while still getting pro coil depth and it will make pinpointing much easier."


After spending around a grand for any detector, I think the last thing you need is to spend more money for an extra coil.

I would call Minelab customer support and see if that is normal referring to your post... "some times the TID will lock on a number an regardless of what other targets you swing over the number will not change. Sometimes raising the coil and then setting it on the ground will unlock the TID again so it tracks the tones."
If it is normal, I would ask them why? I wonder if it is related to auto ground tracking and tracking to the trash???

Good luck and let us know.

 

[Prep1957]

I spent under 800 dollars for my Safari 2 years ago and you are right it is a shame that you have to get a second coil to make it a real pleasure to use.The Pro Coil is a great relic coil but I do not hunt relics.I would use it on a large plowed field with little trash.Most times it is sitting on hook on the wall.This goes for Etrac,SE,Safari look on UTUBE and you will see almost all the successful Minelab hunters are using some kind of after market coil.I am just saying that when I bought the 6X8 it changed the Safari into coinhunting park monster.Great for plowed fields also.There very could be a better coil out there for Safari I just have not had any reason to look,I do not think I have had to pinpoint for over a year it is that good.