SE tell the difference between old and new pennies ?

[David]

Can the advanced Dual VDI numbers on the Explorer SE surgically tell the difference between old and new pennies consistantly as I would like to discriminate out all new pennies and find only old pennies, is this possible and is anyone doing this with success with the SE ? I am in Canada so is this method successful in both the USA and Canada ?

Just how surgical is the the SE and is it really THE BEST discriminator on the market, hands down ?[/b]

 

[Dan-Pa.]

Remember these numbers are basic guides and its up to the operator thru cursor movement to determine whats under the coil and to those with keen hearing perhaps a sutbtle variation of pitch..Do remember a real old indian head penny may actually come in around square pulltab and pennies cover a lot of the meter right up to newer pennies 70's and 80's which actually come in as a clad dime on any ID unit on the market..Certainly an Explorer does a great job with its 3 facets(digital, tone, and cursor screen placement) which rivals most top of the line units but experienced Whites users sure could give you quite an argument with its XLT and 6000 screen for accurate ID numbers as far as the best on the market..Of course these fellows have been using their units 15-16 years compared to 7-8 years for Explorer users which has to be taken into consideration...

 

[Chris(SoCenWI)]

Dave,

I'm with Dan on this. Generally you can tell the difference between a copper US penny (pre 1982) and a zinc one (post 1982), but Indian Head pennies hit the same a zinc. Usually. Depth indicator will also help but have dug many old coins that were very shallow, and new ones deep. The people that find the most discriminate the least. Your machine will not do it for you. The explorer with the 2 axis display screen is the best out there, but by no means perfect.

You have to put in the time and do the work, many people get discouraged when they try to program patterns or go by exact numbers.

Just the way it is.

Chris

 

[jackintexas]

About the only way I know to get old pennies and not new ones . Every time you think it is a penny, see how deep it is. Usually the older ones are deeper than new ones. Certainly not 100%, and you may missed some old ones which are very shallow. But my rule of thumb is the older coins are usually deeper.....Jack

 

[dewcon4414]

A lot depnds on knowing the area you are hunting in. New parks may not produce anything older than wheat pennies. Depth may change the digital numbers a bit as well. You may have to be willing to miss some coins like IH's in areas littered with zinks just for the sake of time. In older areas i wouldnt recommend that... its kind of like not digging pull tabs in areas you suspect may have gold rings. Its all in how much effort, time, and enjoyment you get from those SURPRISE targets you find when digging what you thougth was a zink.

 

[David]

"The explorer with the 2 axis display screen is the best out there, but by no means perfect.
You have to put in the time and do the work, many people get discouraged when they try to program patterns or go by exact numbers." Is what was said here above.

If you do not trust the SE's advanced 2 sets of number screen or some people disregard it, then what is the point then.

A person might as well just get an X-Terra 70 and forget the SE ??

What is the point of buying an SE then, is it deeper on coins than the X-T 70 is the only advantage over the 70 ??

 

[mike in tx]

I've got an SE,and so does a good friend who has come as close to mastering one as anyone I know. Last year, I was following him as we were hunting a yard, and dug up an 18 kt ring. He was shocked and said that it showed up as a new penny.....You can take a new penny, a wheatie, and an Indian and put them under a piece of cardboard and tell the difference every time. In real life, as has been previously stated, these numbers/screen displays are guidelines and can cause you to miss some good treasures. I was recently detecting a playground that had the fiberglass cloth underneath the sand fill, and the cloth was staked with a ground fastener that was metallic. The readings were very helpful when you passed the coil over them so you wouldn't bother to dig it. I possibly missed some quarters because of it, who knows? Again, these indicators are great for trashy areas, but not infallible.

HH,

Mike

 

[LaDigger]

All discriminating circuits produce similar results. I dug mostly shallow clad,
Until I figured out that only about 30 % of my good finds that are deep, give solid lockons and the rest are iffy to crappy signals with high tones trying to break thru, If you want to find the good stuff, dig alot of signals and if you want to find clad , dig only the solid lockons, and you will just be putting off the inevitable, which is digging alot of iffy signals to find the good stuff others pass up on.The EX II, I have, will find silver in trashy places ,that I have missed with my other 5 machines, I can tell the difference between a zinc and copper with it, but I can do that with my whites , fisher ,tesoro,and BH also , It doesn't mean anything. , But if you hunt a lot of clad, and I do also, you don't need a $1400. detector.to tell the difference between a zinc penny and a copper penny, all the $250. dets. can do that. Using different coils will help also.. HH Rich

 

[Chris(SoCenWI)]

David,

I have another top-of-the-line detector that doesn't have the 2 axis display. It gives way less information and is equally affected by trash buried nearby and all the other factors that cause detectors to ID less-than-perfect. Meaning I have to dig much more junk with iffy signals to get a few good items.

What we are all cautioning against here is an over reliance on exact numbers or patterns. If you are only interested in digging shallow clad buy a cheaper detector. If you want older deeper coins you will benefit from a better detector, but it will not work miracles.

Chris

 

[Mike in Dana Point Ca]

i would ditch the numbers and go by tone first. if you are hunting in the turf/grass at a park i would hunt in conductive mode, manual sensitivity with the smartscreen and learn the tones. the tone ID on the explorers is what sets them apart.

 

[DFX-Gregg]

Being in the learning stage, but piling up the hours with the se.... I will have to disagree with most of the opinions here! Here is what I am finding... Coming from digital with the dfx...which I still rotate into use....I find using the digital readings have been the way to go for my learning process for now. I listen to the tones, than check the readings as a back up. I notice my se likes to hang around the area of 3/28 digitally like a dime. My wheaties are coming up in the area of 3/29, my other cents 6-7/25-26. So in general I would say yes you can tell them apart. I have dug a fair amount of wheaties in April.

Now another story....there are always going to be coins that read out of place,,,the dfx uses only a single reading. The ferrous or iron reading come up as a negative number, the non ferrous coins, silver, gold come up a positve reading. The readings run from -95 to 0, 0 to +95. Well here is the point here...with the dfx the wheaties usually fall in the 72 to 79 area reading wise. This morning while I was hunting, I hit a 20-d with the dfx that came in well below those numbers! It was reading back and forth at 61, and 65. This reading is more like a eaten up zincster...so as most of the signals..you must read them in general, not in stone...

I am sure there are those who claim they know exactly just by tone when they are digging silver or whatever...once in a while I feel this way to. Sunday I hit a 27 wheatie with the Se...the tone immediately caught my attention and yes it read 3/29. I also am experiencing some luck with small silver items at 5/24-25... So I think in general you can definitely tell what you are digging sometimes...not always...this has been the case with my se and dfx.

 

[John - Maryland]

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