SL Microprocessor

[Frank-S]

Reg.
I cant or wont sell my SL until I can get more dept from the SL.
If i remember right when you were working on the DOD coil the TDI that you
were using the time delay was 8 lower or than 10.
How did you reset the microprocessor to make time delay go lower.I suspect that
you lowered a resister going to or from microprocessor to lower time delay.will you
tell me the number of the resister or what you did to lower time delay.I know that the
microprocessor is preset, if I damaged the detector I have a trash can that it will fit in.
I am stuck with the SL,I wont sell or trade it until I can get it to go deeper.
Frank

 

[Reg]

I didn't say I was using 8 usec, I said the coil would work at that setting. This was determined by looking at the received signal with a scope. I never changed the actual delay.

To fix your SL, repair or replace what is wrong. Don't try to modify it to compensate for problems.

Reg

 

[Frank-S]

Thanks Reg,
One problem with my SL is low battery voltage and amps.I have enough parts to make
a 15,1/2 volt pack,don't have time to put it together.
Reg the original TDI not the SL.
A pi mono coil is easy to make,On a mono coil there is to 2 connector points 1 going into
coil and 1 coming out of coil to connector..
On the original TDI not the SL. I don't have a schematic
.Will you tell me what is the number of the 2 pins on the original TDI control box that connects
to the 2 pins to connector, to mono coil.
Forget about the SL for now. only 2 pins at original TDI control box.
Thanks Frank

 

[Reg]

Frank,

Nothing changes between the TDI and the SL connector wiring. Pin 1 is RX ground, Pin 2 is RX signal, pin 4 is TX signal and Pin 5 is TX ground. Pin 4 has to be connected to pin 2 on a mono coil.

So, on a mono coil, connect the coax ground to pin 5 and coax center lead to pin 4 if coax is used. Then connect pin 4 to pin 2.

Again, the wiring is the same for the TDI or the SL.

DO NOT CONNECT PIN 4 TO PIN 5 OR PIN 1!!!!!! This could damage the FET.

Reg

 

[Frank-S]

Reg thanks.
I mean no offence did you reply by memory or did you look at
the orignal TDI schematic.
Frank.

 

[Reg]

Reg thanks.
I mean no offence did you reply by memory or did you look at
the orignal TDI schematic.
Frank.

I did neither. The schematic doesn't show the wiring to the connector. I looked at the connectors mounted on the control box and how it is wired to the pc board.

Reg

 

[Carl-NC]

Frank, all TDI's have exactly the same coil connector wired in exactly the same way.

 

[Reg]

Frank and others,

To further clarify things, on the connector mounted to the box, the pin layout is like I mentioned before. Pin 1 is connected to ground, pin 2 connects to the receive input, pin 4 connects to TX output and pin 5 connects to ground.

On the coil itself, the two leads on a mono coil connect this way. The grounded lead or if coax is used, the coax shield connects to pin 5 and the TX power lead connects to pin 4. Now, for a mono coil to work, the coil connector has to have pin 4 connected to pin 2. This connection of pin 2 to pin 4 is only done in the coil connector and only done on a mono coil and is done to connect the TX circuitry to the RX circuitry.

On a DD coil, pin 2 and pin 1 connect to the RX winding and pins 4 and 5 connect to the TX winding. So, the difference is always done in the coil lead connector.

Reg

 

[Frank-S]

Thanks Carl
I had 2 new S L with-in the last two years.the first SL i did not keep very long I wont get-into
why I got ride of it.I did test it with the DFcoil that came with it,not pleased with results. I also
tryed my 7'' home made coil, my 7'' coil was very good small gold,the DF coil would not detect.
my 7'' coil in air test on a nickel was better than DF coil.
This is how i connected my 7'' coil. ( pin 5 to one end of coil pin 4 to other end )
The DF coil is connected pin 5 to one end of coil pin 2 and 4 to other end.
The reason that I purched the second SL i figured that with my coil the SL would detect a nickel
from 15 to 20 '' air test, and with minelab( type) supper D coil (DOD) coil I could detect a nickel
from 20'' to 25''. So I purched the second SL. The second SL was worse than the first.
I wired my 7'' coil the same way to second SL as i did with first SL. (IT did not work) you are going
to say that I had it wired wrong. I dont make that kind of mis-takes.
my second SL serial number ends with letters BC,The first SL serial numbers end with different letters,
the error is in the first SL how it is put-together. I suspect that some one made a change on circuit
board,causeing pin 5 and pin 4 to work in one SL and not the other.
I post some of results of my first SL last year.
Seven came on line also and posted results of his PI.
Frank.

 

[Frank-S]

Thanks Reg
Guess that I need a schametic of both SL.white might give you
walking papers if you post them sorry to take up of so much of your time.
Frank.

 

[Carl-NC]

With a 7" mono coil you should expect 10-12" on a nickel. 15-20" is unrealistic, I don't think any TDI can do that, with any coil.
There were no changes to the TDI-SL from the first unit up until I left White's, and probably no changes since I left. If you think your unit has a problem, then send it in for repair.

 

[Frank-S]

Carl.
I agree 10 to12'' with a 7''coil is about right,15 to 20 next size larger coil and so on.
The new SL I have now (serial number ends with BC) will not detect a nickel at 12'.
This is about to turn into a soap opera so lets put a end to it.
Frank.

 

[Frank-S]

Carl, I E-mailed White about 5 months ago I got no reply, That like saying
Frank we got your money you are stuck with the SL.
White has been readimg all my post on this forum about the SL, If they reply now White will
get the same treatement I got.
I will keep the SL, If I cant repair SL it goes into the trash.
From all the negative reports that I have, if White had a return policy.I suspect that there will
be a long line from the US East coast to the West coast.
Frank.

 

[trojdor]

Carl, I E-mailed White about 5 months ago I got no reply, That like saying
Frank we got your money you are stuck with the SL.
Frank.

Frank,
If I may make an observation...

It could also be like saying that the one and only email you tried to send Whites didn't get to them.
It's possible you might have mis-typed something, or the ISP server dropped a packet, or got caught in a spam filter, or just fell through the internet cracks somewhere along the way.

Five months is a long time to wait after trying only one time to unsuccessfully contact anyone.
While I can understand your frustration, if they didn't get your one attempt at contact, it might not even be their fault.

Might I suggest, that if you really want the SL fixed, you just take the 5 minutes to pick up your phone and call them up;
(Based on your info, here's the one closest to you)

White's East Coast Factory Authorized Service Center:
Centreville Electronics
9437 Main Street
Manassas, VA 20110
(888 ) 645-0202
(703) 367-7999

(It's also a lot easier than posting endless posts about how bad they are, and hoping somehow the drama and rumor will get back to them.)

Just sayin...

Good Luck,
mike

 

[Carl-NC]

Mike is right, one email ain't much of an effort. Give the factory a call, ask for Todd in Service. Great guy. If you don't want to deal with White's, I'd be glad to give it a check-out. And, no, White's probably isn't reading this forum. I did when I worked there, but no one else.

 

[Frank-S]

Mike thanks for your reply.
As you might know White has been reading all my post about the SL that I have.
I think I can repair the SLand make some improvements.

This is for any-one that might E-mail me that has issue with there TDI dont e-mail me
I wont reply.E-mail white if they dont reply call them on the phone.
Frank.

 

[Frank-S]

Carl you might be right,For now this is my last post on my SL.
Frank.

 

[Reg]

Frank,

I think you are wrong, Nobody I know at White's would take the time to read the forums. When Carl was there, he was the only one who did. Now, I am betting nobody from White's reads them.

You can believe what you want, but that doesn't make it true. As for your ability to fix the SL, almost all parts are surface mount and take special equipment to remove them. It will cost you way more than it is worth to even try to do it yourself and without a schematic, a scope, and other required test and repair equipment, it will be about impossible.

Personally, without the equipment, knowledge, and information I have, I certainly wouldn't try it.

I also recommend you send it it to be fixed and go on to experimenting on different things.

Reg

 

[Carl-NC]

Reg is 100% correct, and I will repeat my offer to check out your SL. I'm not offering to repair it, only to see if it's operating properly or actually needs repair.

 

[Frank-S]

Reg, Lets say that people at white did not read my post, after all my post I suspect that some one
did ask a white rep about whats going on about what I was saying about my SL.For now lets leave it at that.
Frank.