Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

Some observations on the Eurotek in trashy iron and...the iron ID

azsh07

Member
Since none of my other detectors have had an IRON id display....I have noticed some kinda cool things about it.

Now...to set this up I have noticed some bad tendencies with the Eurotek on some pesky targets. The first being rusty bottlecaps...the next is certain rusty metal pieces...not including nails.

I had noticed that on rusty bottlecaps especially it would really like to lock solid on these. now I don't usually run into them but recently the cellar holes I hunt have been plagued with them due to hunters. Anyway, with the 11"DD it really made these a pain...even the edge sweep did not really give a lot of info.

Similar issue with certain rusty tin and some rusty iron. Now not a lot of rusty tin etc...just some. Would really like to lock on some of these.

What I did start to notice was that while it locked on with a pretty solid VDI...there was NO iron tone at all either. BUT....the IRON lcd would flash. Huh....do not usually stare at the screen....usually mostly go by tones. Yet I started to notice that on these pesky targets that gave absolutely no iron tone even though I run 0 disc....it would flash the IRON LCD.

Now it never does this on a good target even if it is deep or next to iron. Especially when you center the target and sweep real narrow....good targets don't make the IRON lcd flicker but...rusty beer caps and rusty tin will...even with a solid ID lock.
 
Hey that is a cool tip for those pesky bottle caps. I never paid attention to iron ID flashing on them!!! I will now, Thanks, Tim
 
Thanks for that good tip.----I gotta go do another (that) test now! :)-----Seems like we are all learning things about this great little detector every day.:thumbup:
 
Scott, I am assuming these observations were done with the DD coil?
 
Bucksport said:
Scott, I am assuming these observations were done with the DD coil?
Yes the 11"DD...the pesky coil for pesky bottlecaps......not the best coil for these but I don't usually have to deal with them much.....more so rusty tin from houses.

I should say I do not know what it does on new steel caps...would assume it may not flash the IRON lcd on those. This was on rusty old crown caps.

Should also say on larger rusty steel...may not do it but these targets are a bugger for almost any detector...especially forged steel iron rings.
 
DD coils on any detectors are noted for hitting on bottlecaps. Not sure if I am understanding what you mean but you said "there was NO iron tone at all either. BUT....the IRON lcd would flash", The volume setting on the Eurotek sets the iron sound, if you have the volume set on 10 you will not hear any sound on iron targets.
 
Interesting that its locking high #s and giving a secondary iron ID through the LCD. Wonder if there is a magnetometer at work as well?

HH
 
Even with iron volume off, rusty bottlecaps will give a high tone, but if you watch the iron LED, you can tell the difference. I think that is a what Scott was saying?
I know when I used the DD coil on my Delta, I got a solid high tone and a quarter VDI number. I dug them all thinking I had a quarter, but if I had that extra indicator (Iron LED) I would have dug less rusty caps.
 
Bucksport said:
Even with iron volume off, rusty bottlecaps will give a high tone, but if you watch the iron LED, you can tell the difference. I think that is a what Scott was saying?
I know when I used the DD coil on my Delta, I got a solid high tone and a quarter VDI number. I dug them all thinking I had a quarter, but if I had that extra indicator (Iron LED) I would have dug less rusty caps.
Now I understand, I will have to keep an eye on my display to check it out, I am not complaining but I never seem to find many bottlecaps, other junk yes.
 
I do not disc out iron...either by audio or by disc. Disc set to 0...volume set to 12. So iron makes a noise but in this case it will not but the little LCD will quickly flash
 
Bucksport said:
Even with iron volume off, rusty bottlecaps will give a high tone, but if you watch the iron LED, you can tell the difference. I think that is a what Scott was saying?
I know when I used the DD coil on my Delta, I got a solid high tone and a quarter VDI number. I dug them all thinking I had a quarter, but if I had that extra indicator (Iron LED) I would have dug less rusty caps.
No that is not correct.... I think everyone here thinks I am running volume at 10 which shuts off iron...I run volume at 12 or so....sometimes as high as 18 if I am trying to locate a cellar and I listen for nails but...I never run any disc and I never cut out iron via volume...the machine is run wide open.

Nails and such...still give an iron tone as does most iron.....what I am talking about is rusty iron especially small like rusty steel caps that lock in at a high VDI and give NO iron tone at all even though disc set 0 and volume set 12-13. I can still hear the nails all around.....ok.......there are iron hits all around. But some types of rusty stell or iron will hit solid tone and VDI...and not bounce too much and no iron tone ...BUT THE IRON LCD WILL FLICKER on these.
 
I stand corrected, but the iron will still flicker, which is a good thing :)
 
with any typical motion-based detector used today. I have followed a lot of posts, and there have been many of them since the Euro-Tek got into users hands, and on thing I catch now-and-then is that some are using the IRON ID, both he display and the volume-adjusted Tone, where I don't think that have usually hunted wile accepting a lot Iron range of targets. Therefore, quite a few people are now experiencing things that others have been aware of for many years.

A number of 'local' hobbyists, and a few more avid detectorists, are preparing for a trip to an Eastern Oregon ghost town for 4 days in mid-June. Some experienced this site last year as their first introduction to hunting a high-trash town site. This year we will have a few more people staking on the challenge, and I know quit a few from last year, and newcomers to this type of hunting, are learning the strengths and weaknesses of their detectors ,... and those used by others. Some have, and will, add another detector to their arsenal, or at least opt for a smaller-than-stock coil, to take on the amount of trash that is there.

The biggest offender in those types of sites, and homesteads, military encampments, and quite a few urban sites of renovation, etc., is the blasted Iron nail. Those can be relatively easier to identify an deal with. Many folks who I meet use a Discrimination setting that is higher then nail rejection and can work many old sites quite quietly. So quiet that they miss some good signals due to target masking caused by nearby iron trash. The worst common trash in many old towns, the most frustrating, are those hunks of rusty tin of various sizes.


quote said:
Since none of my other detectors have had an IRON id display....I have noticed some kinda cool things about it.
It would be interesting to know what makes/models your 'other' detectors are. You have to consider the models you use, the Discrimination level you usually use, the coils you use, and if you also use any Tone ID feature or not.
Some detectors on the market will ignore (discriminate) most iron junk at a minimum setting, with the exception of 'problem' trash.

By "problem trash" I am referring to mainly iron-based junk that has been formed by man and, in the right position, is just not going to be cleanly rejected. All too often I find that newcomers to the sport just hate any iron and want to totally reject all iron, no matter what. Well, it just isn't going to happen. Period.. At least not be cleanly rejected without the loss of a lot of good, desirable targets.

The most common annoyance comes from the lowly, crimp-on Bottle Cap. Too often they will read with a half-decent VDI number, often anywhere from Indian Head/Zinc Penny rage on up through Penny/Dime or even as if they were a Quarter. Many other ferrous-based targets can fool us, too, depending upon their shape and position.

Here are some simple examples, for those who question a detector's ability to Discriminate ferrous junk. Try just two of these common examples I use in seminars and demonstrations to show that TID and VDI are never going to be 100%, ad that iron rejection isn't always possible. Use the following:

1.. A common, everyday paper clip.

2.. A good old-fashioned bottle opener, especially like one of he two I use that were found and are rusting away. I am referring to the old "church key" or "key-hole looking" bottle openers.

Using sample #1: Wave the paperclip past the center-axis of the search coil on-edge as well as if laying on the ground holding a couple of sheets of paper together. Some detectors will reject it a their minimum Disc. setting, but set your detector at the minimum setting and slowly increase the Disc. level just to the point where it is rejected (silent). The paper clip is rejected.

Now, open the paperclip up into a 'U' shape and lay it on the ground or wave it past the coil's center-line. It is still rejected.

Now, without changing the Discrimination level, form the paperclip into an 'O' shape and pinch the two ends together or bend them little and hook them together. Again, wave it across the coil's center-line an note that it is NOT rejected! Instead, you get a very good, higher-0conductive audio response ... from a lowly, ferrous-based hunk of trash. Why? Man (you) has shaped that object into something that does a much better job of conducting electricity and it's an example o some of what we have to put up with out in the field. Check the TID and VDI and see what visual info you get.

If you have a good old bottle opener as describer, just set the Disc. at minimum. Move the opener across the coil's center-line held 'on edge' so that I almost resembles an iron nail laying on the ground. Keep it at 90
 
Hey Pete----Why not---that name (Austek) has a good "ring" to it! :biggrin:
Furious T said:
I can hardly wait for my Eurotek to arrive. Might have to re-name it Austek, just so that it feels at home.:)
 
Del, Just another blinding flash of inspiration:lol: I ordered my Euro nearly 3 weeks ago, but I guess they're not fast swimmers.....:blink:I guess we cant have everything . Pete
 
You'll get your "Austek" directly my friend!!-----and ohhh how your gonna luv it!:biggrin:
Furious T said:
Del, Just another blinding flash of inspiration:lol: I ordered my Euro nearly 3 weeks ago, but I guess they're not fast swimmers.....:blink:I guess we cant have everything . Pete
 
Top