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Somebody Shot Me A PM Asking Which Wire Colors To Which Plug Pins On Old BBS800 Coil...

Critterhunter

New member
Got this in a PM, name stripped to insure privacy...

"I need your help Critter. I tried to do a search and read thru the coil sticky. So far I'm not certain I have it right. What I want to do is put a connector on this 8" bbs coil I took off the Excal I modded with the 12x10.

...This is how I think it goes; pin 1-red, pin 2-black, pin 3-white and pin 4-yellow. Do I have this right? As soon as I get the right shrink tubing i'll be ready to solder it up. Thanks for any help you can give me."


Well, by the sound of it you have the old BBS 800 coil, and since I don't have one of those laying around to check the wire colors on, there is no way I can tell you which colors go to what pins on that coil, as there is no standard for color codes in such things from coil to coil from company to company.

The only way we could figure this out is I could take some readings of the pin outs on one of my coils, and then relay to you to do the same measuring the resistance across various combinations of pins until you find the right ones. With that information you could then use a multimeter on yours and figure out which pins go to what, because all Sovereign coils are going to have very tight/similar restance across the TX winding, for instance. And while the RX pin out is isolated by the pre-amp and it might give us both different readings based on total circuit resistance in the differences between mine coils or yours, we should see some changing resistance values for a split few seconds on that as that circuit's parts energize with the slight current from an ohm meter mode on a multimeter, to indicate you are now across the right two pins.

Look at the two schematics found in this thread of the old and newer pre-amps inside all BBS compatible coils. By the sound of it, you are using the old heavier version of the 8" Minelab coil, which means the first schematic which is the old circuit indicates you'd probably have 5 wires in that coil, the extra one being a redundant ground that was eliminated with the newer pre-amp circuit. Ignore pin #5 (not wire #5), as that only exists in the meters for the control box to send the target ID signal back down to it. You can find further info on sorting out what you see in these schematics in the thread below. Not sure if only the original 8" Coinsearch coil had the redundant ground wire, or if the old BBS coils also had them as well...

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1875215,1875260#msg-1875260

The easiest way to figure it out is of course if somebody chimes in with the proper color codes/pin outs on an old BBS800 coil, but if they don't I'll take some readings on one of my coils at the pins and then we can figure out which wires go to what by you taking similar readings with your coil. All coils, stock or aftermarket, are going to have very similar readings in order to work within design specs of the detector. I've read them before on various coils and found the TX resistance reading almost exactly the same # for all of them. By checking various pins in different combinations with each other we can figure it out that way for you if we have to. I don't remember off hand the numbers but it only takes a few seconds to sort it all out. I'd take the readings right now but I'm headed back to bed and my multimeter is in my truck for work related stuff.

If anybody out there knows the color codes for that coil please post them for him and we can avoid the whole dance of tracking down which colors are which pins with a multimeter...
 
Put a connector on an older BBS800 coil off an excal:

pin # wire color

1 red

2 black

3 green or white

4 orange or yellow

5 none

6 blue

the bbs800 only has 4 wires.
 
Critter,Neil has it right,sorry.1 Red 2 Black 3 White 4 Yellow.Again good luck. Ron by the way the very old coils had the extra wire.
 
Neil and Ron, thanks. I directed him to this post for the info he needs. Much easier than using a meter to track down the right pins based on resistance values.
 
Thanks guys. Just hate the idea of having a coil laying around that can't be used unless it's put back on an Excal. I don't have a Sov. unit so I'll probably sell this to somebody that wants a smaller coil. From what info I have been able to get it seems to be a great coil for trashy spots. Thanks again for everyone's help on this, especially RickND for the connectors he sent me. Joe.
 
I have a tip for keeping the small screws tight on these connectors.Blue Loc Tite or equivalent blue Threadlocker, which is probably in most garages.Good Luck HH Ron
 
Have it, thanks Ron.
 
Ron, great tip...I build electric RC planes from scratch as a hobby, and where I bend flat stock aluminum to serve as a motor mount, I use nail polish to keep the motor mount screws from vibrating out with the motor running. I found that Locktite will make it sometimes impossible to remove a screw or bolt, where as finger nail polish painted just around the head of the screw or bolt once it's tightened down, will act as a "finger" on the head to keep it from moving with vibration.

That way it won't back it's self out, yet there is nothing on the screw or bolt threads to make it hard to turn. Once the nail polish around the sides of the head is cracked it'll come out real easy like. Just have to be careful not to get any on the flat head or phillips on the head of the screw/bolt, because then it's a job to get a screwdriver into it to turn the thing.

I learned this lesson the hard way, having motors come loose in flight due to vibration. After crashing a few planes when the motor came loose and ripped from the plane, I made darn sure it would never happen again. Nail polish as the edges of the head of the screw/bolt has worked like a charm. Clear nail polish, that is, as I don't want my planes looking too "fancy"...:biggrin:
 
Critter, blue lock-tite is not permanent. The red lock-tite is.
 
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