Stock coil for a change

[3RINGER]

Changed over to the stock coil for yesterdays hunt. Ran the same area where the last two buttons came from, ran it in 3 tone...worked the area and had a pistol bullet and drip.. Changed over to 2 tone and worked the same area and pulled the knife with brass caps and plate (''SCOUT'' on plate), ornate latch and a buckle with brass catch. Can see where TT has it's place in pulling in more finds in a spot already worked even with iron attached.

Had a little bit of time left so I went to a old house site...TT Gain 70 IDF 82 and dug coins till my time was up. Pennies were 82 or older. Still trying to ID the brass pc.

 

[JFlynn]

Great machine wouldn't you say! Excellent hunting. Can ya be very descriptive of what made you dig some of the targets so others can learn too. Some are chomping at the bit to get where you are at efficiency wise.

 

[mudpuppy]

Yeah, real nice work there 3R!...Thats some tough dirt you got in your neighborhood, I am impressed how quick you got through it with your new rig! Have a great weekend, I suspect to see some more great finds!
Mud

 

[3RINGER]

Jack, Your vid's are a great help along with advise given on the forum from you and others.

Tone nuance is what I mainly go by. Yes, at times in clean areas you will get that sharp tone and a lock on number just like any unit. It's trashy spots we are finding that still hold some nice keepers as you have shown. When running over iron you hear the grunt but don't just pass it by. Work it from other directions in case it's masking something good. Iron will false but that false will move on you...a good target stays put ( may not get it in all directions) but it stays put. In the case with the knife I had a iron grunt. I then worked the target and from one direction you could pick out a high mixed with the low, this was not the case every time but the high point never moved as in iron false.

The buckle with brass catch had a mixed iron / good tone, bleeding together...for a lack of better terms... from all directions, once again the brass tone never jumped around.

The cherry picking for the coins was a sharp short tone that sounded good. Numbers on some were jumpy but with those I found trash.

I hope this makes sense, others like monte and yourself could explain it better. The test garden I have has been a big help. Small to large iron and targets mixed with iron. The knife is going out there today at the depth I found it at....may seem like a hassle to some but a good test garden can save you a lot of wasted time in the field.

 

[3RINGER]

thx mud, hope to see you down this way soon.

 

[squirrel1]

Sounds and looks good Tom. There are many ways to hunt with a Racer. Depending on what you want or maybe what the site wants or how much time you have to hunt. Some have already discounted the Racer. Too bad really, For the $$$, ergonomics, weight, simplicity to operate it's a good detector. I sure wouldn't want too many Racers around my neck of the woods. LOL

 

[3RINGER]

yea I agree, I think some folks were looking for a magic wand. The Racer combined with other units I have are tools and one may work better than the other in a given area. After using the stock coil yesterday and today I like it better with the small coil and heavy trash. Some may differ but that's good because it shows the versatility of it. I have a open ground unit and can't wait to get them both in the woods and old home sites this fall. For now it's parks and yards

 

[Monte]

Changed over to the stock coil for yesterdays hunt. Ran the same area where the last two buttons came from, ran it in 3 tone...worked the area and had a pistol bullet and drip.. Changed over to 2 tone and worked the same area and pulled the knife with brass caps and plate (''SCOUT'' on plate), ornate latch and a buckle with brass catch. Can see where TT has it's place in pulling in more finds in a spot already worked even with iron attached.

I have used the stock 7X11 DD, but I don't find it comfortable on the Racer. I think the rod-mount point is too far to the rear, so for more open area with fewer targets, I use my Nokta FORS CoRe w/7X11 DD as it balances much better.

I like being able to switch between the 2-Tone and 3-Tone modes, on both models, as you can get a little different audio info. In trashier sites I prefer the 3-Tone and keep ID Filter at the default '10' unless nails get too abundant, then I bump the ID Filter to '23' to just reject the iron nails. Sparse-target sites I generally opt for 2-Tone and use the same default ID Filter setting of '10.' As for a Gain setting, I reduce it if I feel a need when in dense target conditions or close to metala structures, otherwise I generally start out setting it at '85.' I GB and leave Tracking 'Off' unless it is a favorable condition site and I am searching in All Metal.

Had a little bit of time left so I went to a old house site...TT Gain 70 IDF 82 and dug coins till my time was up. Pennies were 82 or older. Still trying to ID the brass pc.

I go by the audio response and never rely on a Target ID read-out, but I do often glance at it to get an idea of what info it shares. I recover a lot of targets that happen to read at, or close to, a TID number of '82', and when urban coin hunting that is often some of the modern US cents, but pennies usually account for about ±56% of my "flash money" finds in typical urban Coin Hunting environments.

I just finished four+ days of ghost town hunting last Saturday thru Wednesday morning and there are many, many targets we consider trash, and some we consider interesting artifacts, that tend to fall anywhere from about '76' to '87' so you see a good share of '83-ish' readings. Most Indian Head cents and many early Wheat-back cents from 1909 to about 1920 tend to read lower, more like a modern Zinc cent or even lower into the Screw Cap range and they will fall at about '82' or lower, down into the mid-to-upper '70s.'

Tone nuance is what I mainly go by.

Yep, we have to listen to the audio response to learn more .... and then we recover the target regard regardless to know what we found.

Yes, at times in clean areas you will get that sharp tone and a lock on number just like any unit. It's trashy spots we are finding that still hold some nice keepers as you have shown. When running over iron you hear the grunt but don't just pass it by. Work it from other directions in case it's masking something good. Iron will false but that false will move on you...a good target stays put ( may not get it in all directions) but it stays put. In the case with the knife I had a iron grunt. I then worked the target and from one direction you could pick out a high mixed with the low, this was not the case every time but the high point never moved as in iron false.

Any old site, any trashy site, and especially any iron infested site I like to hunt more methodically with coil coverage from various directions. Good target masking is the challenge we have to work at overcoming.

The buckle with brass catch had a mixed iron / good tone, bleeding together...for a lack of better terms... from all directions, once again the brass tone never jumped around.

Yes, again, we need to listen to the audio and be sure to recover a target to klnow what we found. Too often people use too much Discrimination and that leads to more target masking, and also too often people will ignore a mixed or blended audio response. Can't do that and still be successful.

The cherry picking for the coins was a sharp short tone that sounded good. Numbers on some were jumpy but with those I found trash.

Check!

I hope this makes sense, others like monte and yourself could explain it better.

It makes sense to me. It's all a matter of how we interpret the audio responses and how efficiently we want to cover a site.

The test garden I have has been a big help. Small to large iron and targets mixed with iron. The knife is going out there today at the depth I found it at....may seem like a hassle to some but a good test garden can save you a lot of wasted time in the field.

I don't bother planting a test garden. Did that too many times at too many places from '65 to about '83 and decided it was a waste of time. Can't always duplicate a naturally lost target condition to know it's size, shape, position. depth and how close it is to some type of masking target, or that target's size, shape, position or metal content. For me, it is best to just learn as I go to make the best settings, select the best coil for the site conditions, and listen. Low Disc., and listen, then if I get a good 'beep' or an 'iffy beep' ... DIG! Then I will know if it is a good or bad target.

yea I agree, I think some folks were looking for a magic wand.

They don't exist, but there are some excellent performing detectors, such as the Racer, for those who learn them.

The Racer combined with other units I have are tools and one may work better than the other in a given area. After using the stock coil yesterday and today I like it better with the small coil and heavy trash. Some may differ but that's good because it shows the versatility of it.

I love my two Racer's with the 5.[size=small]5[/size]X10 DD and small 4.[size=small]7[/size]X5.[size=small]2[/size] 'OOR' coils mounted to them for most of the places I want to grab them.

I have a open ground unit and can't wait to get them both in the woods and old home sites this fall. For now it's parks and yards

When I hunt more open ground, such as parks or beaches with more space between targets, I grab my Nokta FORS CoRe and work the 7X11 DD over the location as it balances well and works perfectly for those applications. A nice complement to the Racers I use, to be sure.

Monte