Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

Straight Rod mod for the Fors Relic

Keith Southern

Active member
decided to experiment a little with a straight rod setup..

Wasn't too hard to do just used a Mak/Nok center rod for the back pole to mount pistol grip and armrest to..

Really swings well and seems a lot lighter..removed some of that weird angle the drip rod allows for...

Since I'm a Fors Relic Freak now..(((OWN 3 LOL))) thought I would see what I could come up with...

Feels very tight !!!





Keith
 
If they did like that in the 1st place :biggrin: good job !!

AJ



20160619_233004_zpsf8jlsleu.jpg


20160619_233015_zpsc4ng1hkc.jpg
 
Keith Southern said:
decided to experiment a little with a straight rod setup..

Wasn't too hard to do just used a Mak/Nok center rod for the back pole to mount pistol grip and armrest to.
I experimented with the FORS CoRe about a year ago, but for me the unique upper rod configuration combined with the grip angle just felt better, fo me, so I abandoned making a full-time modification. But that was me and we can all have our preferences. You are correct, however, in the easiness of making such a simple modification for those who have an interest.

Keith Southern said:
Really swings well and seems a lot lighter..removed some of that weird angle the drip rod allows for.
I guess you can count me in the 'weird' group because I happen to like the factory's upper rod design. As for weight, I am sure it might reduce the upper rod weight slightly, but for those who have never used a FORS 'series' model, they don't know what they are missing in comfort for day-long searches.


Keith Southern said:
Since I'm a Fors Relic Freak now..(((OWN 3 LOL))) thought I would see what I could come up with..
Ugh-Oh ... I guess I'm not only 'Weird' but also a 'Freak' because, like you, I also own and use three FORS Relic's and won't part with any of them. :nono:
[size=small](The 'original' prototype is tucked away in a Nokta backpack bag and isn't counted. That final tweaked unit box, that I call my R/P Relic for Revised Prototype, that Alper worked up for us is counted and sports the 7X11 stock coil. Then I have the supplied production Relic housing from Dilek and another Relic I bought from a Don N. a dozen days ago.)[/size]


Keith Southern said:
Feels very tight !!! Keith
I am sure that was easy, too, because the Nokta/Makro design has rods with bigger-than-average snap-lock buttons, excellent rod-locks, and the mounting rail configuration with the arm-cup and control housing is all a very nice-and-tight build quality.

I did, for a brief while, consider doing such a straight-rod modification as I had a spare extra gold colored middle rod. Instead, I have the two factory production 19 kHz Relic's mounted on middle-and-upper gold colored rods to match the 19 kHz FORS Gold +, however, I plan to take them apart and have them stripped and powder coated a lighter colored blue to kind of match the 'Relic' color on the control housing.

Also thinking of having my FORS CoRe middle & upper rods power coated a close reddish-orange color to try and match the 'CoRe' on the control box [size=small](that is, if I can find a powder coating color to match the control housing color. ???)[/size] I'll leave the FORS Gold + the production gold color, and my R/P Relic will sport the standard black rod system. Like you I do sometimes like to be a little unique.

:detecting: FORS Relic w/5½" DD
:detecting: FORS Relic w/5½X10 Concentric
:detecting: FORS R/P Relic w/7X11 DD

Monte
 
Before you try the straight rod mod try this...

use the 3rd hole from rear on the original shaft


Place rear bolt of armcuff through that hole and slide the top bracket on the control box forward as far as it will go...



Tighten it down enough to hold and feel the difference..if you like it drill a hole for the front cuff bolt....

I may actually like this feel better than the straight Rod...it has realigned the distribution of pivot point and weight..

I cant take credit for it..the Relic I got of Dirtdigger was already re-holed...and I'm extremely impressed...it's all about ergonomics ...And Digger seems to have a knack for Comfort design...He also makes the extenders...

Give a test it may be the feel your looking for and its free!

I hear ya Monte I'm always tinkering with things....I know you are too!!!

Keith
 
Nice job Keith!
 
were made after I tinkered with a few ideas, such as a straight rod, but it was after I started checking the different control box mounting points that I found the right match for me. I also have to take into consideration the vehicle I most often use to have a good fit for my detectors.

A.. I like tom carry my detectors set-up and ready-to-go. Just grab the one I want with the coil attached I feel fits my needs at a site and not phart around with detector bags, loosening and adjusting rods and such, just have them show up for work ready to get the job done ... like a good employee ought to do. My detectors generally ride on the back seat so they need to fit between the doors w/o bumping and damage.

B.. Control housing location was my first concern because I had it mounted at the farthest rear position. Later I checked out other positions and I found the best balance and feel, for me, was mounting it with the arm cup and mount secured at the next-to-0rear hole in the upper rod. That gave me a comfortable reach to the hand-grip and balanced okay. Also, it didn't extend th control housing back too far which would make for a bad fit on my back seat.

C.. This was easy for me, but limiting to some folks who are shorter than me, which used to be 6', but with my bad back and other health issues it has me usually bent over or slumped a little. I have had a fe3 friends who stand 5'8" to 5'10" who tried my FORS CoRe and could get by using my set-up, but also wished for4 a shorter lower rod like I do. Rod length adjustment can vary depending upon the search coil chosen and the rod-mount location on the coil. For me, I have my CoRe, Cold + and Relic units all adjusted to the lowest or shortest rod length possible, but at times I do use the 2nd snap-lock hole in the middle rod.

Too often I see people operate with their detector rods extended way, way out in front of them and that is actually more uncomfortable, balance wise, and can also lead to poor search coil sweep technique and presentation. Folks then sweep too fast, don't overlap well, and leave a lot of stuff behind, all while getting more fatigued du to the rod-length and imbalance..

As the Nokta and Makro manuals state, and as most manufacturers have suggested for decades, it is best to work the search coil ±2" off the ground surface. Also, through the years, it was determined that the most efficient search coil presentation is about 12" to 18 in front of the leading foot. Thus, to get the best coil presentation, the most effective and efficient coil presentation, and all the while enjoy more comfort for prolonged searches, I keep my rod-length short or limited.

So, it is housing in the regular mounting position and arm-cup/mount adjusted in the next-to-rear hole and not the farthest back, and the rod-length at the shortest possible or sometimes next-to-shortest. This ended up being the fit I prefer for balance and feel even to the straight rod modification.

Monte
 
Monte said:
were made after I tinkered with a few ideas, such as a straight rod, but it was after I started checking the different control box mounting points that I found the right match for me. I also have to take into consideration the vehicle I most often use to have a good fit for my detectors.

A.. I like tom carry my detectors set-up and ready-to-go. Just grab the one I want with the coil attached I feel fits my needs at a site and not phart around with detector bags, loosening and adjusting rods and such, just have them show up for work ready to get the job done ... like a good employee ought to do. My detectors generally ride on the back seat so they need to fit between the doors w/o bumping and damage.

B.. Control housing location was my first concern because I had it mounted at the farthest rear position. Later I checked out other positions and I found the best balance and feel, for me, was mounting it with the arm cup and mount secured at the next-to-0rear hole in the upper rod. That gave me a comfortable reach to the hand-grip and balanced okay. Also, it didn't extend th control housing back too far which would make for a bad fit on my back seat.

C.. This was easy for me, but limiting to some folks who are shorter than me, which used to be 6', but with my bad back and other health issues it has me usually bent over or slumped a little. I have had a fe3 friends who stand 5'8" to 5'10" who tried my FORS CoRe and could get by using my set-up, but also wished for4 a shorter lower rod like I do. Rod length adjustment can vary depending upon the search coil chosen and the rod-mount location on the coil. For me, I have my CoRe, Cold + and Relic units all adjusted to the lowest or shortest rod length possible, but at times I do use the 2nd snap-lock hole in the middle
Too often I see people operate with their detector rods extended way, way out in front of them and that is actually more uncomfortable, balance wise, and can also lead to poor search coil sweep technique and presentation. Folks then sweep too fast, don't overlap well, and leave a lot of stuff behind, all while getting more fatigued du to the rod-length and imbalance..

As the Nokta and Makro manuals state, and as most manufacturers have suggested for decades, it is best to work the search coil ±2" off the ground surface. Also, through the years, it was determined that the most efficient search coil presentation is about 12" to 18 in front of the leading foot. Thus, to get the best coil presentation, the most effective and efficient coil presentation, and all the while enjoy more comfort for prolonged searches, I keep my rod-length short or limited.

So, it is housing in the regular mounting position and arm-cup/mount adjusted in the next-to-rear hole and not the farthest back, and the rod-length at the shortest possible or sometimes next-to-shortest. This ended up being the fit I prefer for balance and feel even to the straight rod modification.
Monte-------If the lower shaft is too long for you---cut it down & drill a couple of holes (in it)----that will take care of that problem.--------Also----Isn't the arm cuff too short (shallow) for you?-------Some of the guys have found that to be the case and have installed pieces on the arm cuff to extend it (make it deeper).------Depends on the size of your arm I guess.--------Del
Monte
 
D&P-OR said:
Monte-------If the lower shaft is too long for you---cut it down & drill a couple of holes (in it)----that will take care of that problem.---
It isn't too long for me as it is "just right" when at the shortest rod-length, or in the next snap-lock hole with some coils or location conditions.

It IS too long for some of my friends and there are a few I have shortened their FORS CoRe rods and drilled one or two holes at measured distances. I just wish they were supplied with slightly shorter lower rods for people shorter than 6' because the upper goose-neck rod and middle rods are longer than many makes and models so they don't call for a lengthier lower fiber rod.


D&P-OR said:
-----Also----Isn't the arm cuff too short (shallow) for you?---
Nope!


D&P-OR said:
----Some of the guys have found that to be the case and have installed pieces on the arm cuff to extend it (make it deeper).------Depends on the size of your arm I guess.--------Del
Yes, and there are many guys, and gals, I know who use a FORS series model and are fine with the arm-cup size and shape. I don't mind it as it comes.

I did like the wider and taller arm-cup on the Garrett Scorpion Gold Stinger, as well as the Teknetics T2, but I do 'learn to adapt' to many detector designs as they come to us, and for me, the FORS models are fine. I like the thick and full-coverage foam pads they use, and I am one of those who always uses the arm strap. I do not cinch it up real tight, it is just 'comfortably' applied so I can easily pull my arm out when making recoveries [size=small](to use my Makro or Nokta Pinpointer)[/size] and then slide my arm in to fit snug-enough but not bind or be too loose.

Yes, on first examination of my original FORS CoRe I wondered if it might have felt a little better if it was just a smidgeon longer/taller, but after ample time afield I was quite comfortable with it and haven't really thought of it much ... until you just mentioned it.

Monte
 
Top