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Stuff.... (a little long, not bad though )

A

Anonymous

Guest
I ain't been hanging out over here for a long time. I have read through some of the posts but not all of them. A lot of stuff I am going to say has probably been said many times over. Just thought I would add my perspective on a few things. Like I said, if you guys have already said some of this sorry, I just am months and months behind on posts over here and I see quite a few new names. These are of course only my opinions.
First of all I want to slam patterns. Sorry but it must be done. As a new user it is overwhelming the amount of signals you get per swing and then trying to decipher a hit that you are not really 100% sure is even a hit. Been there, done that. So what do most do? They get frustrated and just want to find something, anything. They switch to a tight disc pattern and hunt with a null most of the time from what is being rejected but it is so much easier to pick out the non-ferrous signals. Does that sound about right? Well, it is a deadly trap. Sure, you are going through cherry picking a few coins and more than likely a few deep coins. But, I promise you are walking over more coins than you want to even think about. Using a tight pattern prolongs the learning curve and gets you into bad, bad habits. I will get into that in a second, or hour, whichever comes first. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/biggrin.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":D">
You may see someone claim to have found a 10" dime on the forums. Those are few and far between but it is entirely possible. Some do knock coins off the side deeper. Some are used to limited depth of other detectors and dig a 7" or 8" dime and it blows them away over how deep the hole was, so it had to be at least 10". That is to be expected. Then there are the ones that know what they are doing and if they say they dug something at a certain depth you can bet money they did. A lesche blade is 7" long. The X-1 probe is 9 1/2" long to the cord. Either one of those can be your tape measure. I have seen people post pictures in the field and say this dime was 9" deep but the probe is sticking out of the hole 3" or more in the picture. Take depth figures with a grain of salt. It will do it but 75% of the many "big dog's" finds on the main forum are done in areas where there is so much trash that any other brand of detector user would not even consider turning their machine on. That <b>is</b> what the explorer is all about! I love depth but the trash is where the old coins are still at. Wide open clean ground a 12" quarter is a cake walk. But I will tell you what, wide open ground and no trash a lot of older detectors had/have very respectable depth. They get in the trash and fall flat on their face. A super clean area you can count on the majority of coins being long gone. Is this starting to tie in to the above yet? It will.
So now what? If you want to find the good coins in heavy hunted areas you have to seek the trash, not encounter it. So you get into the trash where you know the coins are and just can not function and you switch to a pattern to calm your nerves. Now the important part. <b>Deep coins and coins in trash will NOT lock on the screen!</b> If you are passing over bouncers you are walking by coins, period. A deep coin or a coin near trash will very rarely visually lock on in one spot like that 4" silver dime in clean ground does. So what I am saying is that it is easy enough to read a post about a 10" dime from someone you trust on the forums. But are they saying that it was a lock on solid silver hit that gives you a woody? Are they saying it was scrappy signal but they worked on it till they decided it was a good enough iffy to dig? Chances are, they never said either way. So some of you new users are going out and not digging the deep coins yet like some others are and that compounds your frustration. Do not let it. You just don't know what a deep one sounds like yet. You have to learn that. We can try all we want in type to explain it but it is not going to click for you till you start digging them or at least hear them when someone else finds them. I am rambling but I am trying to get in a few points I feel are important.
Being a knob jockey does nothing but confuse you even more. I do not change my settings, at least very rarely. I used Audio 1 for two years and deep on all the time and this year I switched to normal audio and fast and deep both on all the time. The performance didn't change I just decided to try something different to see if I liked it and I did. Other than that, I change my sens for the area I am at and that is it. I have probably noise canceled 3 maybe 4 times this year. Probably less than ten times all of last year. All of the settings are about personal preference. No setting is going to have 3" more depth than another setting. (Not counting if you turn your gain or sens way low)
Ok, a pattern will make the bouncers null some of the time and sound like garbage. Iron mask -10 or less iron mask will make the bouncers repeat audibly, at least better than they can with a tight pattern. If you only go by the screen and you use a tight pattern you will not get the deeper coins or the ones in heavy trash. You will only be digging the signals that are shallow enough to lock on. You get that ingrained into your mind it will be a hard habit to break later. Dig more trash now learning, less later. Not the other way around. You got to learn and you will never if you disc out everything and just go for the easy signals.
Find settings you can live with and leave them be. You have other things to worry about right now. I recommend 10 gain or at least higher than factory default. It makes it hard to tell the deep ones from the shallow ones audibly. But IMO it will get your attention on deeper coins that a lower gain might not give you enough of a blip to stop and get your attention. I am not saying a higher gain goes deeper. I am just saying that a higher gain <i>can</i> get your attention on some signals that can easily be missed otherwise. Run 32 auto sens if you can keep a threshold most of the sweep and lower it if you can't. 32 auto gets as deep as manual or at least pretty darn close. Switch to manual later if you like, I use both. I just think there are many more important things to worry about right now for newbies other than if 32 auto is getting them as deep as they can. Golddigger only uses 32 Auto sens.(or lower auto if the ground is bad). Big Mike uses manual only. They both found over 600 silvers coins each last year. Auto VS Manual has been debated many times here and there. But are any of you going to tell Golddigger he is missing coins because he only uses Auto? Are any of you going to tell Big Mike he is missing coins only using Manual? I think not in both cases. Proof that neither manual or auto is superior. That is not what sets those two apart from the rest of the pack. What's between their headphones is almost as important as what detector they are swinging. Not quite but it is definitely the combination of the two more than just the detector.
If you just have to black out your screen at first I recommend starting at iron mask -8 but if you just can't deal with it maybe -6. That is pushing iffy barber hits though. A deeper barber or one in iron trash will bounce over high left quite a bit, more so than an iffy merc, IMO. But the key to both hits is they sound good and repeatable <b>audibly</b>, for the most part.
I saw someone mention that they get a signal to repeat one way back and forth and then turn 90 degrees and get it to repeat back and forth and dig nails. I bet they do! Picture your coil as a clock. If you set the coil on the ground where the target is, the front of the coil is noon and the back is 6. You sweep back and forth over the target and decide what you think there. Then you stop, ever so slightly move to where your coil top and bottom is 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock. Sweep back and forth over the target then stop. (couple times, dozen times, whatever) Then slightly turn to 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock. Do this all the way around a target. Just turning 90 degrees, then 90 degrees, etc does not give you enough information. Sometimes that first <i>slight</i> turn can make a world of difference. If you turn ever so much and it goes from a possible iffy hit to a solid null, something is up. At the very least there is a nail close to it. An iffy coin may break up more at that slight turn but going into a hard null is a good clue. Just one turn is not enough to make a final judgement though. Moving a whole 90 degrees before you sweep over a target again will make anything sound different unless they are at shallower depths. But if you work your way around to that 90 degrees turning a little at a time will give you much more of an idea what is going on. A coin with a nail laying directly on it even in the air will null one way and sound good at 90 degrees. So if you have a good signal back and forth one way then a complete null at 90 degrees and you move on, well, you get the picture. A coin with a nail close to it will sound like crap but most of the way around it will go tingle tingle then start to work into a null then start to tingle tingle again as you go around it and then back into a null, etc. No set degree this happens or order, you just have to go all the way around it. One thing that is a big factor in if I will dig or not is if I get back around to the exact same spot I got a repeatable signal and it repeats again. Coins will do that. A nail a lot of times will not. That is of course not written in stone but if I get back to square one and the signal sounds the same as before I circled it, I am usually digging. I dig nails, yes. Don't think Mike and Golddigger don't, they do. I have seen them dig some big iron. If you do not dig a few nails once in a while you are missing coins. Spring and wet ground nails sound better and fool just about everyone once in a while. Dry summer heat kills the iron halo and you don't get fooled as much. Don't forget that. If some of you are digging more nails than you think you should be just remember this is spring and the ground is moist most places. Iron falses this time of the year can sound so good sometimes at some places.
If you have read this far and got nothing out of this post, fine. But what I am going to say next is what I feel is the most important that can benefit seasoned pro to newbie. You absolutely have to stay focused and in control of your emotions. If you start to get frustrated, your finds will reflect it. If you can stay confident, calm and patient you will overcome all roadblocks. You can not learn it all in a few hours, don't think you can. Let it happen, don't force it. Just relax and hunt. I know all about frustration and battle it every time I hunt. I am the world record height and distance explorer throw holder, with witnesses. That is my weakness. Don't let it be yours.
Sorry I didn't write more than this. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/wink.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=";)"> I am sure there is a nuff stuff to keep you confused a while. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/biggrin.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":D">
If anyone that reads this and would like to add to it or has differing opinions, feel free. After over two years I am still always learning on the Explorer. I don't expect I will learn everything there is to know about it anytime soon. But that is plenty fine by me cause after two years I still am amazed by the Explorers capabilities almost on a daily basis.
Just my two corroded zincs worth! <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
 
I have been going thru frustrations and I have finally come up with something that I think is going to work for me.I am 95% of the time disreguarding that so called 2D Visual ID screen.Like you said it is all about the tones.It is good for clean areas though.I was watching that screen and the target ID bounce all over like I was at the US Open Tennis match.Forget it.I hope Minelab comes up with a better Visual ID system for this unit.
Here is my settings that I am working with now and I am really feeling comfortable with them.
Volume 10 Gain at 9 Th.tone 7 varibility 10 Limits 10 Sounds ferrous noise factory set Response normal Recover deep.(since I am working this unit so slow I donot set it on fast to quickly recover from trashy areas I am picking my way thru and when a good target hits I want it to drag out over the tone.)This is done of course in Advanced mode and runs in smart screen in Select I X'ed out nails and and Crown Cap.I set the Iron Mask to -13 when I switch over to check targets.
Like I said I am just starting to get a feel for this and I will critque these settings as I go but I think I am on to something that works anyways.I say don't be afraid to try settings.Thats what you bought it for.I do know that you have to have a Great pair of head phones for this unit not good but great it makes a difference.
Good luck all and Happy Hunting.
 
Very well written and I would like to say thank you!! I also printed this out for safe keeping and further reading and Re Reading <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> You touched on allot of good area's and this is in my opinion very good reading!!!! Just to touch on what you have said. I use to think patterns patterns ect ect. Then I got to reading on this forum and found a couple people that would really spend some time with a newbie and that newbie would be me <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> Anyway They both had about the same thing to say and that was open that screen up!!!! Which I run 2 Screens 1st screen wide open with Crown Caps and Nails X'ed out and the Second screen is IM -16. I'm here to tell yea that My finds have improved Big time <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> I still have a ton to learn about this machine and that's what keeps bring me back here along with all the good guys to chat with and there photo's of there finds <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> I have learned allot about the Explorer since coming and I would also like to THANK THE GUV <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> for making this possible <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
A wide open screen might drive you crazy at first but like you said if you stay focused and really start paying attention them coins will start to pop out. I really have started paying attention to the tones and not watching the screen I would say I hunt 95% Audio and 5% Screen. The audio is always there and like you said the shallow hits due lock on and the deep ones start bouncing and If I think I have a good hit I switch to IM -16 and I walk around in a circle swinging from most every angle and that's how I decide to If I'm going to dig or not!! I also watch the depth gage and I do dig some trash signals to try to gage at what depth the trash is at around that area and that helps me also. Wow I could go on for ever and bore everyone but all I'm gonna say is WOW <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> Awesome Post Ric I appreciate your time it took to post <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
Mike
 
in the chaos this has surrounded my "learning curve" for some time now. I never tried or even saw an Explorer before buying a previously owned one so I had nothing to compare mine to. This weekend I'm hoping to do a head to head comparison with another one just to clear my head and see how mine stacks up to his.
Your info is going to get me to settle down and stop changing everything each time I read a new post. What I don't have now is CONFIDENCE, but hopefully that will change. Thanks again.
 
Thanks Ric for the informative post. I know there has to be alot of new XS users like me out there. If it wasn't for the helpful posts like yours, Mike-Ohio, Ronin and all the others there would be a lot of "like new" XS's on Ebay!
Just recently found my first IH (1883) and starting to get a little more confident with what I am doing.
 
another Olympic explorer tosser(just kidding ya man). I have wanted to do the same with mine a couple times. I think you and a couple others like Jason are the ones who helped me a a year and half or so back, thanks for the post.
 
you have a way with words. i had read so much about the smartfind screen and how helpful it was that i couldn't wait to get mine and have it just tell me what coin was down there and how deep. i was disappointed in that part of the explorer, but that's the ONLY part! i rarely even glance at the screen any more. occasionally i will look to see if it's reading deep or shallow, but otherwise it's pretty much all by tones. i got too frustrated with those bouncing crosshairs to even continue to pay attention to 'em.
i think it would be like a college education to spend a few days hunting with you, golddigger or big mike and comparing a few signals. many of us would find that we're passing right over coins out of ignorance. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/frown.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":(">
anyway, good post and thanks again for the help when i was just learning this awesome machine. hh.
neal, UT
 
When you learn to interperet bouncers you will be able to tell what silver coin they are. Try that with any other detector. I can tell if it is a barber, merc or roosy by the way it bounces a lot of the time. TC, Golddigger and big Mike can tell you if it is a seated coin the way it bounces, even half dimes. Sure sometimes they say this target hits <i>like</i> a seated dime and it is something else. He!!, they can even tell you if a dime is wore or not before they dig! I only found like 13 or 14 seated coins last year. One was a seated half, one was seated quarter and two were half dimes so I am not upset about the lower seated count. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
The screen is a good one, you just have to learn how they bounce, but they most definitely do bounce. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)"> I don't rely on the screen and a lot of times I can't remember where it hit after I dig because I don't pay that much attention. But I do feel the smart find screen provides more info than any other screen I have ever seen. If the companies made a detector that every coin was a solid lock on a screen there would be no coins left to find. The visual ID on any detector is the weakest link, IMO.
 
One time my good buddy Ray came down from WI right after he got his Explorer. I got a fairly deep, but not super deep, Indian hit. I knew it was an Indian for sure and I called him over. I drew a 5 foot or so circle around the target with my coil and told him somewhere in this area is a good target and a bunch of bad targets, find it and tell me what it is. I watched him put his coil directly over it at least 4 times and he could not find it. When I pointed it out and he went over again he got it every time. He learned a lot that day, IMO. Not because of me, just because he had someone else to compare targets with. That helps so much to hunt with someone that has had one a while. It really brings it home. It is so hard to type what you really want to say, at least it is for me. Anyone is always welcome to come hunt with me any time they want. I will take them to my spots. You just have to email me and ask. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
 
It only took 3 hours. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/biggrin.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":D"> Look at the time I posted below saying I was going to make a new post and the time of the new post. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
I use iron mask -10. I feel that is enough open screen to get the bouncers. I have set up a relic screen with the nails checked and the crown caps checked like you do. Just don't use it much. Sometimes I will open up the screen to -14 or -15 but very rarely. I need to mess with it more than I do. Sure nothing wrong with you using -16 though if you can deal with it all. It is the only way you can get a threshold in some areas sometimes. I have found for me that the lower you set your iron mask the higher you can run your sens. But I don't usually take advantage of that. Yesterday I was using 12 manual in an area that was just solid nasty trash. I did pull plenty of wheats and a merc and a roosy out of the nasty though. There is plenty more there but I only hunted an hour or two. If you are finding coins with your screen opened up you should stick with it. IMO, somewhere between -10 ~ -16 is a good iron mask setting. -6 will help new users but -8 is better than -6 and -10 is better than -8, etc. I did use -12 a lot last year. I just haven't changed my iron mask in a long time, maybe I should lower it and give it a good solid week or two and see what I think. I will never know enough about this detector. It is still far more advanced than I am. That is a good thing, IMO. It keeps me trying and learning. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
Email sent to you BTW. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
 
I have talked to engineers and they say analog meters have the ability to tell you whats masking a coin if it is on a 45 degree angle and alot of other things that a digital screen will never be able to do.I think we all would have to dig hundreds of coins to beable to do what Mike and the others do also my screen reads different then the next XS screen not much but there is a difference where it hit on certain targets.I also went to Mike in Ohio web pag and they guy Charlie building the 22 monster coil says and conferms the same thing as others I have talked to.Donot look for every coin to hit in traditional areas on the screen just listen for the tones the he gives examples of finds that were way off.Also when coins are found deeper all Target ID system are in accurate in ID'ing.A dime at 3 inches doesn't read the same at 9 inches yes the smart screen bounces around if it is not locked up.analog meter don't lock up and still bounce around.
Quote by Engineer KEITH WILLS....
I hope to never see (Certain company) to never change their Meter (analog) system here is why.Analog meters (needle types)are and always will be faster in reaction time then any digital type meter.What this does for you in such cases as a slightly angled quarter next to an iron nail lets say.The analog meter by watching its reactions as you sweep over both the rejected iron nail and the angled quarter in the ground will indicate a needle jump from the meter both from the low iron to coin range with more movement staying in the coin range and just an occasional movement as low on the meter as iron.After some practice with your (certain brand)you can quickly beable to decide if it is a reject object trying to mask a coin range object and also tell from the meter deflection that the quarter or coin is angled just slightly in the ground.This type of information can and never will be derived from a digital meter.Unfortunately,every manufacture is going with digital,hopefully (certain brand)will continue to set themselves apart from others by staying with what works best,Analog meters.
I guess my whole point is not very many people will beable to the thousand of hrs that Mike moutray and others have have to beable to do this whats under the ground magic.To tell you the truth I am just glad to know it is a coin worth digging and to me thats anything above zinc.I think there is room for improvement for the Visual target ID'ing system on the Minelab Explorer.If you ever used a Analog meter it is just as easy to use as watching TV, relaxing.Just how much info do we need to dig a good coin the only other thing I see that is going to be a true ID system is when you push a button and a camera runs under ground and you can see what it is befor diggin and I think thats a long ways off.
But the Smart find screen is good if it doesn't over bear you with to much jumping around and locking up.I have yet to dig a bouncing target that just bounced two ways back and forth left to right I just am in to much trash,so it is tones I must listen to and these even fool me but doesn't it all.
 
There is a lot of info here, but not set in stone as some of this will work for some and not for others. A person has to use what works for them, and for their area.
One of the last newsletters from Minelab was telling us to have the customer run in the factory presets untill they understand the Explorer as it will make the learning curve easier. I had one that left his in the quick start for the first 2 years and did real well with it. I feel too many want to try patterns and do adjustments that acualy do more harm than good, thus thinking their Explorers are no good.
I Have a pattern built I use a lot, but the whole top is opened up plus down the right side 1/3 of the way I use in my sites that are loaded with pulltabs, but no way is it a tight pattern. I get a lot of rusty nails too, but if I am not sure it is trash I will dig and found some coins with rust on them from the nails.
In trashy ares I have found sensitivity at 32 in semi auto run smoother, but may not be able to get a coin on top of the ground, turn it down to 24 or so and it will make it better, the best was in manual at 14 I got my best signal in this area. I feel this has to be used differntly depending on where you are at.
The old suposse to be worked out park I go to very few of my coins I find will lock on the screen, most are bouncing all over, I think the screen is made more for the targets that are not that deep and no trash around, then I get a nice lock on.
It is hard to belive, but one of my better hunters with the Explorer runs his iron mask at 0, thats right 0 and he does real well too. The reason is he goes very slow and listens close and does alot of wiggling of the coil, so if it works for him it is hard to tell him different.
I myself run iron mask at a -14 when not in my loose patern for pulltab areas and feel I may get good targets the other guy will miss because of iron. I think he did too as another guy just got a seated quarter last Sunday 3 inches away from one of the other guys plug because it had a nail beside the quarter.
One more thing for many is if you think it sounded good, but nulled too and you dig a nail out of the hole make sure you check the hole again as there may be a good coin hidding under the nail.
I lost a Barber quarter last year as I had one of these signal and after digging a plug I used the X1 probe and the target nulled, so I covered it back up only to have the guy with 0 iron mask get a signal and dug out the nail and went back in with his X1 and get a barber quarter under it.
None of us are perfect and we all learn from one another on this fourm plus experience with the Explorer. Ric post was very informative and one of the best I have seen for a while and one we all should reread several times lot of good info. Bottom line is no settings is right for everyone or every place we detect, learn the Explorer and enjoy it. Just because we see some great finds on the fourms by some that we are not getting is because they have found what works for them while we havent or it isnt there.
Good Luck and thanks for a great informative post Ric.
Rick
 
Everyone has something to say and valuable info to share. I just am throwing my slant on it all. Some of the people here that help out could probably just wax me on a daily basis. I will bet a million dollars that some of you new guys know tricks or have learned things on your own that I have yet to discover in over two years. We will never know it all. There is always going to be something we can <b>all</b> learn.
But that was my point. Confidence, patience and will power will get you more coins than a plethora of setting changes. You will never know what settings you like best if you never change them, I very much understand this. But I recommend if you do want to tailor your settings to best fit you, work on one setting at a time. And do that after you have some hours under your belt. For example if you are wanting to see what gain setting you like best, only adjust that the day (week?) you are experimenting. Ted (TC) likes 9 gain last time I asked. Justin 8 or 9 last time I talked to him about it. Golddigger 10 gain. Mike 5 or 6 I think. Me 10. None is right or wrong, you have to figure that out on your own. But if you are changing multiple settings in one hunt, you are not really gaining any ground on any one particular setting.
I know this is kinda contradicting my post but not really. I say use some settings from someone that you trust. Get familiar with the machine enough to have confidence in it. Then after a while experiment with one setting at a time to see if there is another setting you might like better. Don't start changing everything trying to find coins when you are not in an act of desperation. If you get to a point you think you have to change settings to find something(except your sens settings), you are getting frustrated. Just take a break, shut it off, smoke a cig or have a sit down and relax and think about it. I do all the time. I will have a seat on a park bench or something and just think about what is going on a while and try to mellow out. Cooler heads will prevail. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
I am just like you and I was where you are at. I am not extra gifted or anything like that. I have found help in these forums and from hunting with good friends like Ted, Mike and Jim (Golddigger). That is a super big help hunting with folks with experience and comparing signals and them letting you hear what an iffy they consider digging sounds like. Even if they dig a nail that target still gives you some good info on what an "iffy" sounds like to them. Everyone can be successful with the Explorer if they give it enough time. Some people just don't have the time I guess. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
 
I used several 6000DI's for years and I had a fisher CZ5. While I 100% agree that analog is currently faster than the available digitals, I don't agree with an analog being more accurate. I don't see what exactly he is talking about. My CZ 5 would lock solid on coin on deep iron all the time. Some learn that iron bounce but I would be willing to bet that they still dig their fair share of deep nails regardless of what they say. I am not trying to argue with an engineer. But in my honest, less than educated opinion, the explorer meter gives you waaaaay more info than an analog could possibly ever think about. Those three guys I keep talking about can tell you so much about a target where it hits on the screen combined with the audio. They will blow anyone away. Golddigger can tell you if there is a nickel and a penny in the same hole even if it averages out and hits smack dap exactly the same spot as a tab. Their knowledge of the explorer is unequaled. Their finds show this. I know coins that bounce two spots or three most times. These guys know coin signals that bounce in 4+ different spots on the screen and knows exactly what they are by how they act.
If anyone relies solely on a meter, digital or analog, they are missing coins. I know, that is what you just said. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/biggrin.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":D">
BTW, Mike, Golddigger and Ted all have full time jobs. They do not hunt near as much as some think they do. Detecting is their passion, if they have an extra hour they are swinging. Mike has his detector in his truck and leaves work in his uniform and hunts till time to go to bed if weather or his health permits. They put a lot of time in but they are <b>not</b> hunting 24-7 like it appears they do.
 
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