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Testing

Picketwire

Well-known member
Notice: Not to be used for comparing mine to your or yours to some else's.

With that out of the way, I urge all my friends here to make up some tests for your own good. When you feel like detecting this winter but the ground is frozen a foot or two deep, break out a detector or two, a good target or two and some trash and see what you can find out about how your detectors work in different situations. You can sit in your easy chair and detect different situations right in your house. Warning: If your wife is home, it is best to wear headphones; need I say more?

You may find that your detector is very noisy with numbers jumping around with the coil raised in the air. Turn down the sensitivity until it stops. You will probably find that your depth is not very good. So what? You can still listen while raising and lowering the coil to see how the target sounds as you start to lose it, just like a target at much greater depth when you are out in the wild. You will have some idea what to do when you are bombarded with EMI while out really detecting. If you see there is nothing you can do, you will know to leave when you encounter the same levels of EMI.

We have been warned not to try to use your detector in the house. Why? Probably because of EMI. Do you live in the city? I guarantee you there is EMI everywhere. My iPhone says there are at least 4 other neighbors with internet. If you want to see how to detect in it, what better place than in your house next to the computer router or refrigerator. "I can't, there are nails in the floor." Excellent! Put a coin or earring, etc. next to one (you can find one there, right?) and see how it affects the signal. Go underneath some powerful electrical lines and throw targets on the ground and try to make them sound good enough to dig.

I saw a post where a person was gifted with an old silver dollar on edge fairly deep. He said the electric line to the well probably went somewhere near where the coin was buried. Obviously he was having trouble finding it! If you go above an electrical outlet, I am sure you can locate that wire. Tape a coin near the wire "on edge" and listen. It won't be perfect like any of these tests but it could help identify the sound. Put a coin in the crack on a sidewalk (make sure there is not rebar in it) and circle it while passing over it. The sound will probably surprise you but maybe not depending on your detector. If you don't know what it sounds like up close, what chance do you have when it's deep?

Are you lucky enough to be able to go detecting for nuggets? Do you have any hot rocks? They are easy to find. I can go to a playground and with a neodymium magnet pick up all kinds of really small hot rocks and iron filings. Throw in some rusty object and small different size nuggets and see how they all react to each other. Move everything around and try again. Don't have small nuggets? Try small lead. I reload shotgun shells and have a variety of sizes. I have a coffee can full of spent 22 bullets. Sometimes I take diagonal cut pliers and cut different size pieces and spread them around.

If you are going to be hunting in nails, throw an assortment on the floor, ground, sidewalk, driveway, etc. and put a coin, ring, 3 ringer, etc. amongst and see what it takes. Same thing with aluminum or small foil. Put an earring next to pieces of foil and listen. Be creative. When you can spare time do it again, the ground is frozen anyway. After a while you may actually find it entertaining.
 
How about a tot lot test. Put good targets close to an ammo can. You have a wide side and a narrower one. Can you make adjustments that help? Can you keep detuning pinpoint mode to get closer? Can you find time to do it?
 
'Testing'. Something we should all enjoy doing, from the day we get a new detector in our hands, and periodically as time continues into the future of our metal detecting hobby. I believe 'test' helps us learn our detectors "as designed" or "defaults" well as the various adjustment functions on models that might be a little cluttered with such adjustable functions. Learn what works, and how much adjustment might help as well as what adjustment hampers our detector performance. It also lets us better learn the benefits or weaknesses of different search coil sizes, shapes or types.

I garb at least one of my detectors each day, and often more than one, just to do a little 'testing' whether it is outside when I go hunting, or indoors when I just want to 'sample-and-learn'. I do that with both the detectors I use and the different coils I have for them. ANY 'testing' can be educational, but my preference is to use a 'test scenario' that is an actul duplication of an in-th-field encounter so that any and all testing I do now or in the future will have useful results that can fairly be compared with any make or model I currently have or the performance I have had in the past. In addition, I also do some random 'testing' but keep in mind it is only a random a test that isn't going to have an exact duplication in the future for comparison. It's simply for learning and education.

As for wives, we should hopefully have one who also enjoys this great hobby and getting out hunting with us, or a good wife that realizes we have our own wants and needs to address and will get the the yard work or honey-dos when we can and won't ignore them completely. Or, we can get along just fine without getting hitched or by getting un-hitched. I fit one of the above categories and really enjoy getting out detecting as desired.
:thumbup:

How about a tot lot test. Put good targets close to an ammo can. You have a wide side and a narrower one. Can you make adjustments that help? Can you keep detuning pinpoint mode to get closer? Can you find time to do it?
Hunting 'tot-lots' is something I have really enjoyed in big urban environments with a lot of hunt-site opportunities, and they have produced a lot of good gold and silver jewelry as well as a good number of coins. Modern, but a lot of them. Some detectors excel in those environments and I have my favorite models in my Detector Team, one of which stays in my vehicle full-time.

In 'tot-lots' we encounter a lot of modern plastic playground structures but also a lot of metal structures with poles as well as other metal pieces such as stairs, platforms, etc., that are close to the ground. We also have a lot of metal that is used hat is very tough to hunt close to as it has a greater effect on the coil's EMF, yet we also have some poles that have very little 'hearable ' influence on the signal. We need to learn how to hunt the different metal structures we will encounter.

Ammo boxes? I have have over 14 of them that I use, and three are empty right now so I used those to confirm what results I knew I would get. Usually not the same size and shape of most 'tot-lot' equipment, but I can tell you this. I can work my FORS CoRe w/
'OOR' DD, Relic w/5" DD, Bandido II µMAX and Silver Sabre µMAX w/6" Concentric coils, Apex's with 5X8 DD 'Ripper', 8½X11 DD 'Raider' and stock 6X11 DD 'Viper coils, as well as some models I am parting with, like a Simplex + and ORX, and get right up close and even against the different Ammo boxes and still get a good response with all of these detectors and coils on any one of a wide assortment of coins.

Monte


PS:
Not only do I hve an excellent group of detectors in my outfit for both urban Coin & Jewelry Hunting as well as remote location Relic Hunting, in Iron contaminated sites, but I have the 'magic formula' for testing success ..... all of my MTM Ammo cans are all-plastic. :heh:
 
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Testing is also good just to see if your equipment is working properly! I was doing some testing before the season started and learned my favorite x-12 coil wasn't working properly. It was giving half the depth of another similar coil, and giving wrong readings on some coins. If I hadn't been testing I probably would have kept using it and taken a lot longer to notice.
 
I can work my FORS CoRe w/'OOR' DD, Relic w/5" DD, Bandido II µMAX and Silver Sabre µMAX w/6" Concentric coils, Apex's with 5X8 DD 'Ripper', 8½X11 DD 'Raider' and stock 6X11 DD 'Viper coils, as well as some models I am parting with, like a Simplex + and ORX, and get right up close and even against the different Ammo boxes and still get a good response with all of these detectors and coils on any one of a wide assortment of coins.

Monte, can you please elaborate about the nature of the good response and how beginners can identify it. I believe that would help people who simply give up near these obstacles.
 
Monte, can you please elaborate about the nature of the good response and how beginners can identify it. I believe that would help people who simply give up near these obstacles.
Yes, and to 'elaborate' I'll refer you to my closing PS: that was tongue-in-cheek.

PS: Not only do I have an excellent group of detectors in my outfit for both urban Coin & Jewelry Hunting as well as remote location Relic Hunting, in Iron contaminated sites, but I have the 'magic formula' for testing success ..... all of my MTM Ammo cans are all-plastic.

Beginners to advanced should use Plastic Ammo Cans and not metal if they want great success. Additionally, if you want to work as close as possible to any metal object, the odds will be in your favor if you use a smaller-size search coil, and also hunt 'with' the metal object rather than 'towards-and-away'.

Monte
 
Going back to steel ammo cans, Revier says the Compadre gives a double beep on coins next to large metal. I have witnessed this myself. I also have detected quarters almost touching chain link fences using Monte's method of swinging "with" or parallel to the fence. Try swinging a DD coil with the long side of a steel can,steel post, license plate or whatever large steel you like. Swing with the toe of the coil about an inch from the can and listen. Then put a quarter an inch from the can and try again. Is the sound the same? I can hear a difference with the detector that I am trying to learn now. Would I dig it? I would not have before!
 
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