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The Makro Racer. What impresses me, and what I would like to see different in the future.

Monte

Well-known member
The Racer has a lot of top-end, top-quality, in-the-field performance and I don't want to see any of than hampered with. The Racer is the Racer, it is what it is and for the suggested retail price it is easily best all of the competition in a similar price bracket to even two-hundred dollars more with a comparable-size standard search coil. Honestly, I don't even use the 'standard' 7X11 DD coil for the Racer because:

1.. The 7X11 DD on the Nokta balances much better and is easier for me and my bad health to use.

2.. The 5½X10 DD provided close-to-the-same performance and balanced a bit better.

3.. Neither of the above would see much use anyway, although the 5½X10 would get some open-area/sparse-target work in, because the little 4.[size=small]7[/size]X5.[size=small]2[/size] 'OOR' coil is almost a perfect match for the Racer's performance and the terribly iron littered sites I most often hunt. That coil stays mounted virtually full-time on a Racer!

I am especially impressed with how well the Racer handles some of the trashiest ferrous and non-ferrous sites you could imagine and is able to provide good to better responses on good targets in that masking trash. Superior to any other TID or Tone ID detector I have ever used in those conditions.

Is the racer 'perfect?' No, no detector is 'perfect,' but the Racer comes very close for many people and applications. What is close to 'perfect,' however, is how well the Nokta/Makro companies have listened to consumers in developing what they have given us, and equally how well they have been addressing any questions folks have or production issues that have resulted. Coil mounting bolts and standard search coil ear breakage? Yes, that's happened, even to me, but it was no cause for alarm of starting a flurry of complaint discussions of the Forum because the manufacturer was well aware of it and addressed the breakage with a new coil!

Actually, I haven't even notified them about my standard coil ear breakage because I seldom use it, preferring the 'OOR' coil, but a couple of weeks back a good friend went to mount my standard coil, which was already on its own lower rod, and went to snug up the coil bolt and

a.. the hollow bolt broke, and

b.. the coil ears were also broken.

Well, I had an extra Nokta FORS bolt & nut, and they don't break, but could just use the 5½X10 instead of the now ear-broken 7X11.

As for the Racer's adjustment features in detection performance, I have no desire to see anything changed. It works and it works quite well.

I can only think of three things, physically, that I would like to see improved upon with the Racer.

1.. The coil mounting bolt, but that's an easy one to take care of and get away from the hollow, brittle bolt and I think they have.

2.. The 7X11 standard coil rod-mount 'ears' and rod mount position/location. Makro has already addressed the 7X11 'ear' issue with the new and improved thicker ears. I need to get one now to replace my original 7X11 that has ear breakage after sitting unused [size=small](I put in less than 30 minutes hunt time with it because the 'OOR' coil and 5½X10 got most of the service)[/size].

My main issue with the 'standard' coil from the get-go was the coil design with the rod-mount being positioned closer to the rear of the coil. That tends to make a coil feel more 'nose heavy' and balance is not very good. For comparison, I swapped my Makro 7X11 and lower rod with my Nokta FORS 7X11 w/lower rod and noted the Racer felt much better, for me, with the different 7X11 coil and improved rod mounting point [size=small](Note: while they do not interchange and work, I only wanted to compare balance and feel of 7X11's)[/size].

Three fixes to this issue in my opinion would be:

--- A.. To redesign the Marko 7X11, which is a slightly different shape, so the rod-mount is closer to the center of the coil.

--- B.. To simply use the Nokta FORS' 7X11 DD coil, but have it work at the Marko frequency and connection. They already use the same smaller 'OOR' coil housing, and the larger 13.[size=small]3[/size]X15.[size=small]5[/size] coils are also very similar with better rod-mount locations, so just use the Nokta coil housing.

--- C.. Honestly, with the way the Racer performs, I wish they would have just dropped the 7X11 DD early on and made the 'standard' coil the 5½X 10 DD :thumbup: That's maybe what I would do with a future Racer.

3.. Other than take care of the breaking bolt and breaking coil ears, I have only one personal complaint that I really wish Makro would address with the Racer, or with models to come in the future, and that is with the upper rod. The grip angle bends are way too abrupt. The Nokta FORS grip is almost perfect, and the CF-77 has a more 'traditional' type of 'S' curve rod bend for the grip that makes it more comfortable.

The Racer feels 'OK' with the 'OOR' coil for me, but for me and at least a half-dozen friends I have who have also gone to the Racer, they find it very uncomfortable and quickly fatiguing using the standard 7X11 DD, and their hunt times with the 5½X10, which has a better rod-mount point, is still only half of what they would normally do before having some arm or shoulder discomfort. The reason? The too abrupt grip angle.

So I am totally satisfied with the Makro Racer electronic design. Excellent features and adjustability, great in-the-field performance, and quite a value for what it sells for. I wouldn't change any of that to try and make a Racer II or Racer Pro or Racer Deluxe or whatever. Just enjoy the Racer as the Racer for what it provides us. The only changes, mainly already addressed, are the standard coil ear breakage and bolt breakage, so the only 'fix' I can see would be the physical reshaping of the upper rod to provide a more comfortable grip angle.

In a different model in the future, it might be nice to see some other modern adjustment functions, such as an Iron Audio Volume adjustment to reduce the ferrous target loudness while still hearing all targets. Personally, I would like to see a nice Concentric coil or two in the accessory arsenal, such as something about 6" to 7" diameter, no more, in a round shape. Reshape the rod grip angle and I would be fine with Makro continuing to use the Racer physical package. It was well thought out, very rigid, and would be hard to try and improve upon. Just do something a little different, and if it means increasing the MSRP a small but reasonable amount with some different features, that would also be fine. But ...... keep the Racer the Racer. :please:

Monte
 
Monte,
While they're at it, maybe they could change the very top of the meter and have coin denomination across the top instead of the Ferrous/gold/silver tabs. That would help coin hunters not have to remember the coin ID numbers. That's not much of a problem until you start to try remembering the IDs for the Gold Bug and the F19, and the Racer, and ........ etc. At my age, I'm luck to remember how old I am.
 
Racer bolt comparison:

I have one of the first production Racers that came to the U.S. Mine arrived on March 25.
I have had three bolts break, all while trying to gently re-tighten my 11" coil firmly enough
that it would stay in place while swinging it. The most recent break occured about 10 days
ago. I contacted Cavit at Makro and, as usual, he quickly sent new bolts. I was hoping
I would receive solid bolts, or at least bolts that appeared to be clearly stronger than the
old bolts.

The attached picture shows the end view of the old bolt (on the left, which broke off about
3/8 of an inch from the end) and the new bolt that I just received a couple of days ago,
direct from Istanbul. I can't be sure, but it looks to me like it hasn't changed. Maybe the
material is a different, tougher material, but it doesn't seem any different to my untrained
fingers or eyes.

Kudos to Makro for the quick replacement, but PLEASE, I hope this is a stronger bolt.
 
Why oh why would they produce hollow bolts?-----Was these shipped all over the world with the Racer sales (along with weak/breaking) coil ears?-----If so, Makro Co. must have some big problems in many geographic areas in this regard.-----Or was all this just in the U.S. market?
TallTom said:
Racer bolt comparison:

I have one of the first production Racers that came to the U.S. Mine arrived on March 25.
I have had three bolts break, all while trying to gently re-tighten my 11" coil firmly enough
that it would stay in place while swinging it. The most recent break occured about 10 days
ago. I contacted Cavit at Makro and, as usual, he quickly sent new bolts. I was hoping
I would receive solid bolts, or at least bolts that appeared to be clearly stronger than the
old bolts.

The attached picture shows the end view of the old bolt (on the left, which broke off about
3/8 of an inch from the end) and the new bolt that I just received a couple of days ago,
direct from Istanbul. I can't be sure, but it looks to me like it hasn't changed. Maybe the
material is a different, tougher material, but it doesn't seem any different to my untrained
fingers or eyes.

Kudos to Makro for the quick replacement, but PLEASE, I hope this is a stronger bolt.
 
I just realized I should have posted another photo, so here it is.

Along with the new bolt I received, I also received new washers for the coil attachment.
The old washers (an unused set) are on the left. The new washers are on the right.
Note that the new washers are "scored" on both sides, which I would expect to grip better and make it
unnecessary to tighten the bolt so hard in order to hold the coil in position. That should reduce
bolt breakage.
 
That they use hollow bolts, first I have ever seen this.
It is rare I have ever broke a bolt on my detectors and the last one was on a Tesoro over 10 years ago, but had 2 break on my Makro Racer and also had the coil ears break also on both sides sitting in my car, but it was replaced and haven't use it yet as I have the 10X5.5 coil and it is the one I like to use and the replacement bolts have been fine so far. The coil is exactly the same as the one that broke and even used a micrometer and the new one may even be thinner just by very little. The 10X5.5 is also the same thickness, but the small coil the 5X4.5 is thicker where it mounts on the shaft.Now I believe and hope that the plastic that was being used maybe wasn't up to par they used on the coils and the bolts is why there is a problem we have seen and hope the replacements will be OK. Now if they build the coils themselves then it is probably the supplier of the plastic not mixing the material correctly giving us this problem and all the later ones will be fine. Just by looking on the coil ears on my replacement coil over the one that broke the plastic seems to be more flexible while the one that broke was stiffer feeling, so it can be brittle and if this is the case then it should be OK now.

Rick


I am still learning my Racer and see for me I have to turn down my gain as it chatters too much if I don't and also see everything is showing 1-2 inches deep no matter how deep it is, I also see my battery gauge still shows full after about 15 hours use, so it looks like it will be good on the batteries so wont have to carry extras with me and change them if going out for a long day or a weekend just in case the gauge is not correct after they are half gone or more.
 
which only shows a VDI numeric Target ID read-out in the hand-grip. I also thought about the White's IDX Pro which has an 8-segment TID display to reference Coins, Tabs, etc., and the Teknetics Omega 8000 which has a VDI numeric read-out and segments for different Coins, Tabs, etc.

All three methods of Target ID work: Icon reference, VDI numbers, or combination of both.

The problem for manufacturing detectors is that ONLY the VDI numeric read-out is universally practical. Having separate US Coin labels isn't because the metal detecting market is more diverse than it used to be. Initially, when visual TID was first introduced over 30 years ago on the USA made Teknetics CoinComputers, and then quickly used by most other USA detector manufacturers [size=small](Bounty Hunter, Compass, Fisher, Garrett, White's etc.)[/size] for some of their models.

The problem was that back at that time, I believe the bulk of the metal detecting business, principally geared toward the Coin Hunting hobbyists, was in the USA. Yes, some to Canada and many of their higher-conductive coins [size=small](10¢, 25¢)[/size] had already been made mainly of Nickel since about '68. There was some overseas/foreign metal detecting interests, but they didn't have US coins, and the coin sizes and alloy types are so widely varied, that our USA made detectors with USA Coin ID was useless and annoying to them.

The only thing that was practical was the numeric VDI reference which could provide some useful information for the searcher to learn and interpret. Thus, the only practical TID to offer today, in my opinion, is a numeric read-out because anyone anywhere can make use of it for their search areas. Besides, there are too many variables that work against many hobbyists who tend to rely too much of the Icon reference, expecting it to be 100% accurate. A coin that is canted, too deep, close to a metal structure, located in terrible mineral conditions, located in a mix of other denomination coins, or maybe has been affected by too much 'additives' [size=small](be it man-made fertilizer and other chemicals or around a homestead or cattle habitation and exposed to critter whizz and dump residue)[/size] can read 'off' from what a proper, in-air and unhampers TID might be.


Tom Slick said:
[size=medium]Monte,
While they're at it, maybe they could change the very top of the meter and have coin denomination across the top instead of the Ferrous/gold/silver tabs. That would help coin hunters not have to remember the coin ID numbers. That's not much of a problem until you start to try remembering the IDs for the Gold Bug and the F19, and the Racer, and ........ etc. At my age, I'm luck to remember how old I am.[/size]
Any errant readings, be them a solid incorrect read-out of a condition that renders the display results as a jumpy or erratic indication, are quite often ignored by the majority of the 'average' or 'traditional' Coin Hunting hobbyists. At least, that is more the case I have noted in the US where the bulk of the detecting folks are in it just for casual Coin Hunting.

I believe most countries foreign to us have a greater mix of coin types to try and isolate on a display, plus in many, many cases they can't "Coin Hunt" in common public areas and much of their detecting is rural, in plowed fields and pastures and in wooded areas, generally after any and all forms of metal targets whose size, shape and composition also make it impossible to try and rely on a specific coin group category.

So, I enjoy the simple display of the Nokta FORS CoRe, and the more informative display of the Makro Racer, and that is the same way I have relied on other detectors I have enjoyed using, such as the White's XLT or MXT Pro and MX5, or the Teknetics Omega 8000. I rely on the VDI numeric read-out, seldom ever referencing the coin-type icon or segment readings.

Just works best for me, anyway, because the bulk of my detecting is in wooded/brushy locations in urban settings and rural, as well as around iron and non-iron littered homesteads, stage stops and railroad depot sidings, old town sites, and other places with many targets of interest in addition to coins.

Monte
 
What about just measuring it and finding a bolt from one of the other manufactures. They all pretty much use nylon now. Maybe Tesoro or Whites or Garrett. Trick is getting the right diameter. And just order one from them.
 
You can always use the Racer Armcuff bolt on the coil. It's just a bit larger in diameter and it's not hollow. I've swapped all my Racer coil bolts to either the White's bolts or the Racer armcuff bolt. No more worry about breaking the coil bolt. To use the White's bolts you'll have to open up the bolt holes a bit. I mostly use the White's lower rods but only because I have a bunch of them. To use the White's rod you have to re-drill the rod for the spring clip so that it protrudes out the bottom instead of the sides.
 
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