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Water Hunting Mod . . . .

Andy Sabisch

Active member
I've been getting some requests on the mod needed to take the Deus in the water and wanted to see if there was any interest anymore on how to make the antenna mod needed to allow the coil to communicate with the control unit. There were a few posts several months ago but to be honest, they seemed to have created more confusion than clarity.

If there is still an interest, let me know and I will put up some easy-to-follow instructions

Andy Sabisch
 
Andy, I would love to know how to. It seems like it would be an almost perfect freshwater machine. I remember people talking about an antenna and that is about where they lost me. I hope you decide to share the info.

Thanks, Don
 
I came on here tonight looking for the water antenna mod! It would be a great help if you give us step-by-step instructions.
Thanks
 
OK, here it is . . . . . and to be honest, some of the past gudiance had me totally confused and that was after having made the antenna myself for water hunting and had been using it for a while . . . .

The Deus when running in the 18kHz mode is about as hot as you will find a detector for shallow water hunting when it comes to gold which is why most of us are in the water anyway. The only water detector that even comes close to the Deus on the small gold is the Tesoro Tiger Shark. I've used the Deus in the water for the past 9 months or so and have found more than 2 dozen rings including 3 petite engagement rings with diamonds as well as several gold chains and earring backs. Don't worry - it hits larger gold items as well . . . again, had someone ask me if it only hit small gold :wacko:

To make the mod a lot simpler, you need to realize that the only thing you are doing is providing a pathway for the signal being transmitted from the coil to the control unit . . . that's it. Sometimes we tend to make things way more complicated than they really are and some of the posts here and eslewhere on this mod did just that.

To sart with, you need a cable to provide the pathway. There are lots of cables out there but the one that I have found to work the best is RG6 Coaxial Cable. It is readily available and you can get a roll of 50' or even 100' for under $20 so if you have some friends, you can have plenty to go around (if someone needs some, I have some extra laying around that I can send for postage costs). It comes in white or black - I opted for the white as it lets me see it underwater in all but the murkiest of water.

If you are going to leave the control unit on the shaft and only hunt in say knee deep water or less, you will need about 4' of cable. If you are going to put the unit in a case, figure on about 6' to 7'.

Strip about 1" of the outer jacket and the inner braided shielding from both ends. Do NOT cut the plastic core or the copper wire in the center!

Next, attach the stripped end of the cable over (on) the transmitter hump on the coil (located just outside of the charging connection). Use plastic wire ties (had to say plastic as I had one person complain it did not work and found out he was using metal ties :stars:). You can buy some that are reusable and can be released with a tab whcih makes it nice to put the mod on and take it off. One guy I shared this with uses velcro strips which is another inexpensive option that is also reusable.

Run the cable up the shaft and attach it using velcro straps or tie wraps.

The other end of the cable needs to be placed on or very close to the receiver humps on the top of the control unit. The signal will then be sent up the inner conductor from the coil to the control unit. This addresses the problem where the communication link is lost once the coil is under a few inches of water.

There are a few options for wading deeper but this addresses the antenna mod which seemed to as elusive as Moby Dick at times.

Hope this helps . . . if anyone has any other questions, let me know . . . . . there's a section in the new book that covers this as well.

Andy Sabisch
 
Hello andy just wondering by useing one of these waterproof cases as a a housing for the contorler http://www.pelican-case.com/microcases.html taping a hole in the top to run the cable in and rewaterproof it to wear it around your neck do you think there will be any problems.I use these clamps on my saltwater fish tank they hold tight and open pretty easy not sure on size needed my dectector comes in tomorrow http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+8999&pcatid=8999 .thanks for your time don
 
I have seen 2 XP Deus's in action in the water...this year I will be taking mine in the water for sure!!
 
Here is the antenna, that my cousin has been using and it is working 100% if done right:

http://postimage.org/image/65tle9hpz/
Use regular antenna wire, strip away the outer plastic to expose the copper mesh. Cable diameter is 7mm= 0,275 inch.

http://postimage.org/image/dl6uzqe51/
Pull back the copper mesh to see the inner copper wire. Dont cut the copper mesh, leave it peeled back and seal it together with the rest of the cable. the exposed inner copper wire should be around 35mm= 1.37 inch.

http://postimage.org/image/6foaorjth/
Strip away the transparent plastic protection to expose the inner copper wire.

http://postimage.org/image/qmbhz8z9n/
Then use adhesive heat shrink tube to first seal the inner copper wire, then place another adhesive heat shrink tube over it so that the adhesive heat shrink tube overlaps the first one, then use yet another adhesive heat shrink tube to seal the whole exposed wire thing and make sure it is totally waterproof or it will not work.

You can wade as deep as you want, if you put the remote in a sturdy waterproof bag that is intended for watersports and hang it around your neck and attach the other end of the wire to the outside of the bag with a tape.
 
There are several ways to actually wade with the control unit and similarly several ways to ruin the electonics.

As I mentioned at the start where people had posted how they converted their units, the directions were sketchy and the results can be disasterous of done incorrectly.

There are sports bags / cases that are advertised on E-Bay bu this is definetley the case of you get what you pay for . . . . stick with QUALITY of you can find yourself with a control unit that no longer works . . . . [size=large]water and electronics do not mix[/size]!

I'm a bit short on time right now but will try to post more details on what you need to wade . . . . . I've been a diver since the early 70's and have converted a number of detectors over the years and found that spending a few $$ moer up front is always the smarter way to go if you want to avoid issues. Some of the earlier posts talked about the cheap bags / cases that came from the Far East and at least two people I know found they leaked on Day #1 wiping out the control unit.

This post was to show how to make the antenna . . . . . I'll get the photos and details on the case to make it a wader.

Andy
 
Andy Sabisch said:
There are sports bags / cases that are advertised on E-Bay bu this is definetley the case of you get what you pay for . . . . stick with QUALITY of you can find yourself with a control unit that no longer works . . . . [size=large]water and electronics do not mix[/size]!

I agree, use only the best brand waterproof bag or a case, that have a sturdy sealing lock and a long warranty time, forget the cheap Chinese stuff or similar, you dont want to ruin your expensive stuff by putting it in a cheap plastic bag.:stretcher:
 
I recommend sticking with Andy's instructions. I found that the shrink tube peices with adhesive would always fall off on the transmit/submerged end. His way is much simpler, and the rg6 can be had at most radio shacks in shorter 10' lengths.... Just make sure you get solid copper core.
 
Andy Sabisch said:
OK, here it is . . . . . and to be honest, some of the past gudiance had me totally confused and that was after having made the antenna myself for water hunting and had been using it for a while . . . .

Andy Sabisch

Andy,

I see that someone named BusterHammer on the MDF forum in the UK has copied this verbatim minus the helpful pictures without any attempt at giving credit. Or maybe you are BusterHammer? :) Wanted to mention this because not giving credit where it is due just burns me!
 
No, the other end of the antenna wire needs to be touching or very close to the control unit receiver portion . . . . . . however, I guess if you ran the wire to the same point on the headphones it would work as well . . . . . sort of look like a DetectorPro Headhunter unit I guess . . . . . might have to try it this weekend and see if the link can be established . . . . .

Andy
 
Thats what i was wondering and had the same image of the pirate detector from DetectorPro......might be easier to keep the headphones dry as opposed to the control box.
 
I'll see if I can give it a try and post the results . . . . might be another option.

Andy
 
Interesting... is there any "lag time" of the signal due to being tranmitted through the hard wire? Just curious.
 
I just stripped together a cable following a mix of Andy's and finder82's guide to replace my displaced or lost purchased one. Tested with a shovel in the small fish pond in my garden (no smaller target available for quick dirt test).
Worked well, interestingly enough also with only the WS5 headphones powered up and no control box available, what I found kind of surprising since with my original cable the sand scoop was only signaled with control box almost attached to the wire.

Then took a gold wedding ring connected to fishing line and sunk it and the WS4 caught the signal as well. Signal quality was somewhat reduced compared to the dry test, but due to not very clear water I could not be sure if I really hit the location of the ring with the coil, since the pond is somewhat narrow.

Best greetings from Germany
Olaf
 
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