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what depths are you seeing and what about bottle caps and pull tabs can you tell what they are ? n/t

There are always going to be a few pull-tabs that will signal exactly like a nickel. Those have to be dug if you dig nickels. But most fall firmly into the tab category on the I.D. screen. Rusty steel bottle caps take a little more effort, but seem to be discernable by watching the Fe304 graph or doing a quick-pass off the toe of the coil to see if the signal will break up. Aluminum screw caps almost always fall into he screwcap/zinc cent range, but you can often tell the difference by the wider and more "washed out" audio of the screwcap compared to the short, sharp signal hit of the zinc. Often you can also tell the difference simply by the VDI.

Ralph
 
Hi Fred,

Pull tabs aren't really a problem as they relate to coins. Yes there are a few that hit the nickel range but most stay up there in their own category.

The steel bottle caps are an issue. They seem to be the only wart on the T2. The fact that they are round, made of composite material, and can sometimes be plentiful, and like to read up into the high coin range on the T2 has been a problem.

There is still a lot of testing going on around the steel bottle cap issue. So far, Pineapple has the most time on the unit and he reports being able to identify steel bottle caps 80% of the time by the Fe3O4 bargraph spike. He also reports an audio difference when using max discrimination. I have noticed the spike, and find also that the pinpoint mode can help as they pinpoint much broader than coins do.

Out of the 8 modes available on the T2 (all metal, pinpoint, and the 6 audio disc modes) there is going to be one or a combination that will help id these pesky trash items.

80% is not too bad a number, and like all machines, the more you use it, the more familar you get with it. We may just have to dig these masking items.

:detecting:
 
I was happy on my last hunt.

I don't have a lot of areas that actually have deeper coins, and we are so dry right now that I couldn't dig in the areas that would have. I tried twice and it wasn't pretty so I quit until we get some rain or snow or they start watering again.

So that kind of leaves me at probing range targets in the parks but allows some deeper digging in the school sand lots.

In the school sand lots I was recovering coins up to 8" deep. Its hard to measure depth in sand. But I had a good four inch dry layer, then a dry hard packed layer that I had to dig at least another 4" in for this particular copper cent. The fact that it was down in the dry hard packed area tells me its been there awhile and I and others have missed it on previous hunts. On that hunt, I dug numerous coins several inches down into the hard packed layer. But that particular one stands out the most. I forget what it pinpointed at. I was suprised that there were that many coins down in that layer that I had missed before. But then again, I mostly hunt school lots with the Golden Cleansweep combo, or with the 8.5" widescan.

Settings wise, I was able to run at 90, ground canceled at 87, .3 on the Fe3o4 graph.

Mike
 
Hi guys, all good replies. Thus far in regards to depth the deepest coin I have found was a 9 1/2in in the disc mode which was a clad quarter. In the All Metal I have managed to pull up a copper penny at 10 1/4. Though I was extremely happy with the depth of both modes since the area I was detecting was highly mineralized (red clay) and had it's fair share of trash down to about the 6in mark. In a controlled area (my test bed I was able to shoot down to 11 1/2 on a couple of targets. I lost the dimes at 9 1/2 in dry conditions (believe it would have picked it up had it been damp/slightly wet). The reason I say this is because during my first field hunts the ground was still wet from some heavy rains we had a day or two prior to my taking it out there. I was ID'ing some at least 1 1/2 to 2in deeper than I am now when the ground is pretty darn dry once you get past the first 2ins. The tabs as you guys noted are easily identified with the unit and though noted by Ralph some will still show up along with the Nickels I found these to be predominately the square ones. Though they are ringing in at a 56-57 and for me 57 is the nickel number, I've found that most of the tabs that will kick in at 57 will be preceded by a click in the audio. This is not the case for all of them but a large percentage of them do. The bottle caps especially the rusted ones are still my problem child though I am working through them. I've tried about 14 different things I know of to do to include what Ralph mentioned, but am still finding them to be bothersome. The Fe3O4 bar thus far seems to be the best identifier. As Mike mentioned I'm having about a 80 success ratio using it as my primary identifier. The unit is still awesome and believe there still lies within it some hidden characteristics that will unveil itself sooner or later. No doubt in my mind I will unlock the mystery to the rusted caps....just a matter of time and patience.
 
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