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Whites Eagle II Sl - QUESTIONS/VALUE any good??

D

doberman

Member
Anyone know where I can find a picture of n Eagle II SL - what color was the box on that detector - were they blue or black? Are they decent detectors?? What are they worth - got an opportunity to buy one from the bro in law of a (supposedly Whites at the factory, Oregon tech)

Thanks

Dan
 
Many pictures are on Ebay, completed sales. The older Eagles were blue and the Eagle II series, ll SL and Eagle Spectrum's were black. Going prices are $150 to $250 depending on accessories. Not a bad machine for being 20 years old, but you might do better by adding a few bucks and get an XLT. If the ll SL could be purchased for $150 or less, I would consider that a good buy.
 
This is definitely BLUE and it's an Eagle II SL - I'll see if I can get a picture of it - its supposedly and unusual machine - not sure in what way. I did look on Ebay and the Eagle II SL's I have seen are black not blue - not sure if that means anything??

Dan
 
It has been a lot of years since I had an Eagle, so I could be wrong. My Eagle ll SL 90 was black and I know the Spectrum was as well.
 
Original Eagle= blue box.. you could send it back to whites for a chip update to make it an eagle II, but it won't run the large blue-max coil. ( 9.5 )..

Then came the eagle II= blue box also..great detector..still had the poorly designed grip set-up...but larger 9.5 coil

Then came the eagle IIs= black box with the old-stlye grip.. this was a transition detector as the company was changing over to the sl design.. different rod and grip design..

Then eagle II sl and the 90.5= black box ..last design on this detector.....

BTW.. I happen to still hunt with an original eagle with the II chip update, and also have an eagle II s model.. sent both back to Whites to have them change the grip set-up to more modern sl design.. I can hunt for hrs without no wrist or arm fatigue... The II s model is a beast.. For a 20+ yr tech.. it will hang with almost anything out there..

Hope this helps... Mark ( ohio )
 
I don't post much, but I browse the forum almost every day. I pick up a Eagle 2 SL last weekend at a garage sell for $20 from the original owner. I been wondering if I was throwing away money on it. It had the original nicad battery and no charger. I ordered a c-cell battery holder for it from Whites and it should be in early next week then I will find out if it works. Been reading all of the posts on it and downloaded the instructions on from Whites.
 
Thanks for your comments beh, sounds like a great deal even if you have to get it repaired for some reason.........:thumbup:
 
I have to agree with you on the Eagle, nice machine to this day. I had a hard time switching from the Eagle to the DFX 10 years ago, but glad I did.
 
Its double tiered and like a Chinese puzzle to setup understand Whites is running out of parts for this unit...All in all would recommend the Eagle S/L 90 or 90.5 as it has memory factors not available in earlier models...Probably a great grandfather of the XLT and nice unit once you get the knack for setting it up....Top of the line 20 years ago and will hang in with many current models but is a bit on the heavy side..
 
One of the best detectors I've ever used. It has many features that the newer detectors have and a lot that they don't have but would be great if they did. It's a fast detector and set up with the HIGH BEEP Sound is really hard to beat. It's one of the best for helping to scout out new camps because you can move fast and cover some area. I have 2 and wouldn't sell either one of them. I also own 10 other detectors including TDI's, Minelab, Fisher, T2 and I use them all. But the Eagle is still my favorite!N/T
 
I really could use some help about the white's eagle II, have the manual and all but i just can't manage to program it properly it always finds only foil or iron no other indication show on screen. can some one tell me how to set it step by step. I was over a golden ring and coins just to check how it works and it still saying its an iron,foil or pull tab.I'm I doing all wrong :p
 
Does the Whites symbol at the bottom of the screen disappear when you go over a target? Have you tried a different coil? Make sure the knob on the front of the machine is turned fully counter clockwise. Make sure you are in coin or jewelry mode.
 
No the symbol doesn't disappear, i set all like it says in the manual, set it in different modes but it still detects only foil and iron. Maybe im doing something wrong or the detector has some problem cause im still new in this, that is why asked if someone could tell me how to set it step by step. Maybe ill be lucky and it will detect other materials than iron and foil :)
 
Shadow, what metal detectors do you have previous experience on? This will help us figure out where to start, to figure out what you may be doing wrong.

There are a lot of nebulous things that printed instructions can never convey, so sometimes, it's better to hook up with someone who's proficient on the particular machine you have, to show actual bench tests on sample targets. Then go to the field, and try comparing flagged targets, etc...

Example: a guy I knew bought at XLT, his first detector ever. He read the instructions cover to cover 2 times. Then went out to an old camp ground to hunt. He noticed that everytime he'd get a signal, it would "disappear". He'd give up, and move on. Then he'd get another signal, and ..... it TOO would disappear! It happened over and over. So he sent the machine back to the factory, for "repair". They sent it back, and he tried again. But the problem persisted! So AGAIN he sent it back to the factory. This time, they called him and said they could find nothing wrong with the unit. The user kept trying to explain the phenomenom, sounds, how he was swinging, etc.... They told him he was using it wrong, and that there was nothing wrong with the machine. By now, my friend was getting very agitated with Whites Co, thinking they were insulting him (like, calling him a dummy or something). He insisted he had read the instructions through 2x and was NOT doing anything wrong.

Eventually, he discovered the problem: Everytime he had heard a signal, he would instinctively "slow down" to "hear it better". Well, being that the XLT is a motion detector (and relatively fast motion, at that), the target would "disappear" the minute he slowed to a crawl to "hear it better". When I asked him later "but didn't you read in the instructions that motion was required?", he said "yeah, but when I read that, I thought that made no sense, because, afterall, how are you supposed to progress through the field, if you are not moving the coil, TO BEGIN WITH?" "I mean, duh, of course 'motion is required', what am I gonna do, stand there and not move around looking for targets?".

So you see, no amount of printed instructions can convey certain things. They simply have to be seen and heard. So too may your question be tied up in something like that. So if you can hook up with any long-time whites user in your area, to go over some bench tests and ground tests, that'd be the best thing.
 
Try varying the swing speed of the target you are passing by the coil. Ie.: faster whips.
 
This is my first experience with a detector, got it recently as a present, no one was using it for a long time. Tried on lot of things to see and hear like you say how it will react on certain things, adjust it properly, go from one setting to another, maybe i'm still a dummy like your friend :) but don't wanna quit all the fun now, wanna learn it all. Moved the coil all the ways to find the best signal to target it 100% but like i sayed doesn't detects all materials. Its a big challenge but i will try to win this one :)
 
If you give your location, maybe someone might live within driving distance to take a look at it and see if it has problems. If not, it sounds like it might need to go to White's service to get a tune-up, even in all metal mode, it should be able to detect coins. If it is not picking up coins in one of the preset coin programs, I would guess something is wrong that service needs to fix.
 
Shadow, you might go join the whites forum. There are techs there that will help you understand whats going on. If you do go join, it will not allow you to post until you validate you account through the email they send you. They helped me ALOT !
 
It sounds to me like while trying to reject iron and foil, they got accepted and the higher range numbers got rejected. Whoever set the discrimination may have got it backwards. You can do a sort of reset by taking the batteries out while the unit is on. Wait a minute and put them back in and see if anything changes. If all else fails call Whites. That machine is worth having fixed and Whites will still work on them. It cost me about $70 last time I sent one in.

Good luck

Kurt
 
I owned one of these back in 1985. That one looks exactly like my old detector. I want one but won't buy it from ebay. They were expensive enough I paid $450 back in 1985 for mine and one for my wife used. I found a lot of silver coins with mine. I owned two rechargeable battery packs never used the other battery pack that come with it for normal batteries. I now have a White's M6 and the same guy I bought my Eagle ll from told me the M6 is 10 times better . I don't agree. That is why I am looking for a Eagle ll. Good luck if it isn't shot you'll be glad you bought it . I loved mine and like I am saying I am looking for one for a back up but will only pay $100 or so for it.
 
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