XL Pro / Blue & Gray meter faceplate swap

[rlchntr]

I recently purchased an XL Pro and would like to install a meter faceplate from a Blue & Gray Pro, as I do mostly relic hunting. Have any of you ever done this switch? If so, could you, would you, please tell me how to go about doing this? I would really appreciate it.

- Gary

 

[Monte]

While it isn't all that difficult, to me it is really more of a waste of time for something that isn't all that beneficial. If "Coin Hunting" the visual Target ID is beneficial when working a private yard where you want to make few round intrusions as possible, or where you have a one-time opportunity to work a particular site and you want to "cherry pick" for the most likely coin targets. These types of cases are when Target ID is really helpful. When I am working any renovation site, ghost town, old recreation site, homestead, etc., etc., I hunt with the Discriminate level set to just reject an iron nail and I will recover all good and 'iffy' target hits. I might glance at the TID just to give me an idea of what I might be going after o what I might be looking fo when I plug.

For "Relic Hunting", I am either just knocking out iron nails or I am rejecting nothing. It all depends on if I want to only recover the non-ferrous targets or remove everything from the site, including any "relic" or "artifact" that might respond with an iron type target response (knives, guns, and such.

On White's MXT I wish they would have either NOT put on "Relic ID" suggestions, or provided a switch so that a coin hunter who likes the Relic Mode audio could select Coin-Based TID info. Relic hunters really only need to have control over the Threshold, Ground Balance and Discrimination then listen for the audio response. Target ID, for me, is is simply fluff for serious relic-based searches where a meta; detector is all you need. One that will alert you the ANY metal target and then you recover it. There are far too many good targets, and I mean really worthy-0find targets, that fall all over the VDI range of conductivity and I don't think an avid searcher would want to pass them up.

Just my opinion, of course, but I have done well in the past with a 5900 Di Pro SL, 6000 Pro XL & XL Pro, and the MXT without really needing (or wanting) a relic TID or non-relic TID at sites where I was very serious about finding "the good stuff!"

Monte

 

[Butch in Colorado]

However, that being said. I send it to a White's repair center and let them do it. If you try it by yourself and you screw up your meter movement, it will get expensive quicker than it would by just paying an authorized repair center to do it for you.

 

[rlchntr]

Monte,

I understand what you are saying, and I have been an "avid searcher" for 5 years now, recovering (uncovering?) hundreds of Civil War relics using my Blue & Gray Pro. For me, It is just a personal preference wanting to use the relic faceplate that I am used to, instead of the stock faceplate with the (yuck) yellow, blue and red color zones...

Butch,

Yeah, you are probably right. Better safe than sorry. Fortunately, there is an authorized repair service center about 30 miles away (Manassas Va.). I will go ahead and take my detector there and let them do it. Thanks Man.

- Gary

 

[Butch in Colorado]

n/t

 

[Monte]

the colorful display. I prefer the yellow on black of the 5900 Di Pro SL to the multi-colored 6000's myself.

I understand what you are saying, and I have been an "avid searcher" for 5 years now, recovering (uncovering?) hundreds of Civil War relics using my Blue & Gray Pro. For me, It is just a personal preference wanting to use the relic faceplate that I am used to, instead of the stock faceplate with the (yuck) yellow, blue and red color zones...

Keep up your avid devotion to hunting. It's sure a great sport! I, too, have my personal preferences so I know what you mean.

Happy Hunting,

Monte