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Xterra pro = short coin hunt

thepest

Well-known member
Just my opinion but if you run that machine past 19 sensativi you’re gonna get a lot of false signals. At least I do When I run it Hot.. no need to go past 18 ,it’s plenty deep and you’ll pull coins left and right. I run in park 1, sens at 18, 5 tones, speed setting on 2 and I touch nothing else..Those are easy setting but try them, I think the sens is your problem but give it a try..
Those are the settings I was using... as per KDSFisher77... I did bump the volume to 23(I don't use headphones)... In my case... because of the soil... may be clipping back to 15 on sensitivity and working my way up.... ANd turn Tracking ON... Lol....
 

KSDfisher77

Well-known member
Those are the settings I was using... as per KDSFisher77... I did bump the volume to 23(I don't use headphones)... In my case... because of the soil... may be clipping back to 15 on sensitivity and working my way up.... ANd turn Tracking ON... Lol....
A recovery speed of 3 will help fight the minerals in the ground & might help clean up your TID #'s. But you might loose some depth on a recovery speed of 3. There is also the chance if you got hot dirt a recovery speed of 3 might gain you depth.
 

thepest

Well-known member
A recovery speed of 3 will help fight the minerals in the ground & might help clean up your TID #'s. But you might loose some depth on a recovery speed of 3. There is also the chance if you got hot dirt a recovery speed of 3 might gain you depth.
I definitely have some tinkering to do... It's 2:00 am here... I want to go out try stuff... cause I'm awake... 3 more hrs to daybreak.. If I awaken my Bride... I will receive 1st hand instruction on foot removal... Lol...
 

KSDfisher77

Well-known member
I definitely have some tinkering to do... It's 2:00 am here... I want to go out try stuff... cause I'm awake... 3 more hrs to daybreak.. If I awaken my Bride... I will receive 1st hand instruction on foot removal... Lol...
Lol I'm a hour earlier than you. Lmao the xterra pro has a search light, but idk what my neighbors would think.🤣😂🤣
 

Old Longhair

Crazy Ol' Foole
Staff member
A recovery speed of 3 will help fight the minerals in the ground & might help clean up your TID #'s. But you might loose some depth on a recovery speed of 3. There is also the chance if you got hot dirt a recovery speed of 3 might gain you depth.
Straight from the manual:

A higher Recovery Speed at the same swing rate will
help to reject ground noise, however it will also decrease
detection depth.

If you are experiencing high levels of ground noise at the
beach, or when detecting underwater, try increasing the
Recovery Speed to reduce the noise.

A lower Recovery Speed at the same swing rate will
increase detection depth, however may increase noise.

Varying both Recovery Speed and swing rate can help
minimize ground noise.
 

thepest

Well-known member
I've been watching this guy here and there... I didn't know if this video applies at all to the X-Terra as well.. He does a short interesting demonstration.. with bottle caps and gold..

 

Old Longhair

Crazy Ol' Foole
Staff member
I've been watching this guy here and there... I didn't know if this video applies at all to the X-Terra as well.. He does a short interesting demonstration.. with bottle caps and gold..

I can't tell you if it's applicable or not. He mixes terminology too much to tell. I'm not at all familiar with the Manticore, so I don't know whether it has a Mask feature or it's just a Discrimination feature similar to the XT-Pro.

The 70 & 705 had Prospector Mode w/Iron Mask that could eliminate virtually all ferrous targets w/o missing any non-ferrous objects. Again, it's one more reason I'll never part with my 705.
 

thepest

Well-known member
Slow and Painful.... But I'm getting there... I started out at my little beach... at low tide... with park 1... auto track on... tones 5... recovery 2... and sensitivity at 15... There were guys fishing there all day yesterday... I wanted their sinkers.... Lol ... after a half hour... I drifted up to the vacant lot... That's when I found the target depth by dumb luck... and did an even shorter video showing it.... I think I need a new camera... Those go pro's with the chest mount seem to be the way to go.... I am finding much smaller targets.... and not as much aluminum... but I'm still early on at this.... I was surprised to pull a couple Jefferson nickels today... a 1981 and a 1990... the copper jacket bullet slug gave me some crazy numbers... I wasn't sure what it was... the iron targets are still showing and sounding like a quarter... I'm not quite sure how to adjust for that.... How many clad quarters did I miss cause I didn't want to dig any more iron... so there's that...:huh:
5-30-23.png


 

KSDfisher77

Well-known member
Slow and Painful.... But I'm getting there... I started out at my little beach... at low tide... with park 1... auto track on... tones 5... recovery 2... and sensitivity at 15... There were guys fishing there all day yesterday... I wanted their sinkers.... Lol ... after a half hour... I drifted up to the vacant lot... That's when I found the target depth by dumb luck... and did an even shorter video showing it.... I think I need a new camera... Those go pro's with the chest mount seem to be the way to go.... I am finding much smaller targets.... and not as much aluminum... but I'm still early on at this.... I was surprised to pull a couple Jefferson nickels today... a 1981 and a 1990... the copper jacket bullet slug gave me some crazy numbers... I wasn't sure what it was... the iron targets are still showing and sounding like a quarter... I'm not quite sure how to adjust for that.... How many clad quarters did I miss cause I didn't want to dig any more iron... so there's that...:huh: View attachment 41271

Thanks pest! I should have mentioned that about the depth meter. Supposedly each arrow is 2"of depth. On deep coins of 8" or more I have dug, it will usually display 4-5arrows for depth.
 

woodbutcher

Well-known member
One thing I know from trial and error ,Is that I can work any false signal and make it come through clean ,and sounding like a coin. ..I'm not a know it all but if I could pass on one piece of info,,if the hit isn't solid and good sounding from the first pass just keep moving. You can set there and isolate a false signal into sounding so good you'll end up digging some junk or chasing a ghost signal .. A good coin hit or nickel hit ,or ring for that matter will be consistent sounding from the door, no need to work it with multiple passes or the god awful wiggle, that'll get you every time
 

KSDfisher77

Well-known member
Idk if this is right or wrong for determining iron, but if I get a iffy quarter target signal, I will turn on the horseshoe & listen for iron.
 

woodbutcher

Well-known member
Idk if this is right or wrong for determining iron, but if I get a iffy quarter target signal, I will turn on the horseshoe & listen for iron.
That can help for sure,but just my opinion , there's far and few iffy quarter signals. That's a large mass coin and should not be iffy unless it's at the edge of detection, like 9 inches or better..
 

KSDfisher77

Well-known member
Another way I found you can determine if it is iron, is by using the coil. If you find a target that's possibly iron, you can bring the very front or rear of the coil over the said target, with the target at the very front or rear of the coil & you swing over the target. The target will be a erratic TID # & the target tone will be really broken up sounding. If it is a coin or a good target it will still have a good tone & solid TID #'s.
 

Old Longhair

Crazy Ol' Foole
Staff member
One thing I know from trial and error ,Is that I can work any false signal and make it come through clean ,and sounding like a coin. ..I'm not a know it all but if I could pass on one piece of info,,if the hit isn't solid and good sounding from the first pass just keep moving. You can set there and isolate a false signal into sounding so good you'll end up digging some junk or chasing a ghost signal .. A good coin hit or nickel hit ,or ring for that matter will be consistent sounding from the door, no need to work it with multiple passes or the god awful wiggle, that'll get you every time
Yep! If you have to work to make it sound good, then it isn't.
Going over a target several times is only necessary if you're determining whether it's one target, or two, close to each other.
Idk if this is right or wrong for determining iron, but if I get a iffy quarter target signal, I will turn on the horseshoe & listen for iron.
I hunt in All Metal all the time, so I hear the ferrous tone right away. The best way that I can describe it would be that a good coin tone makes a clean clear "Beep", and a junk tone is a "BLeep".
 

thepest

Well-known member
Yep! If you have to work to make it sound good, then it isn't.
Going over a target several times is only necessary if you're determining whether it's one target, or two, close to each other.

I hunt in All Metal all the time, so I hear the ferrous tone right away. The best way that I can describe it would be that a good coin tone makes a clean clear "Beep", and a junk tone is a "BLeep".
so my method is my fault.... (whites user) when I hit a target.... I do a few passes... because this 6 inch coil for some reason.... likes to zero in on targets at the edge of the coil... I'll pinpoint to get the target in the center... Then I give it a few more swipes to make sure It's good... But I'm actually making the iron look like a quarter at that point.... So how do I get past the driftyness of the coil zeroing in at the edge in the first place ??? If I don't pinpoint... I end up digging a big hole....
 

Old Longhair

Crazy Ol' Foole
Staff member
so my method is my fault.... (whites user) when I hit a target.... I do a few passes... because this 6 inch coil for some reason.... likes to zero in on targets at the edge of the coil... I'll pinpoint to get the target in the center... Then I give it a few more swipes to make sure It's good... But I'm actually making the iron look like a quarter at that point.... So how do I get past the driftyness of the coil zeroing in at the edge in the first place ??? If I don't pinpoint... I end up digging a big hole....
Sometimes if you just get the end or edge of a target inside the detection field it will excite that edge/end and sound like a good target, but one more pass over it will generally tell the tale. If you're overlapping your sweeps the way you should, your next pass will be over the target, and it will become obvious.
 

thepest

Well-known member
Sometimes if you just get the end or edge of a target inside the detection field it will excite that edge/end and sound like a good target, but one more pass over it will generally tell the tale. If you're overlapping your sweeps the way you should, your next pass will be over the target, and it will become obvious.
Okey Dokey... I'll keep at it.... I can work on me.... I never thought I'd find another coin out of that lot.... And today I pulled 3 with a strange to me detector... And a much smaller coil than I normally use.... That wouldn't have happened without the help I've found here.... Thanks To All :biggrin:
 

KSDfisher77

Well-known member
Another thing that works for me on a iffy target/possible iron target. Is after you have detected the said target & get a repeatable signal/tone, turn 90° on the target & sweep your coil back over your said target. If the TID#'s remain somewhat even & the tone remains the same as when you 1st detected the target. Then dig or pass the target up. I'm new to this machine as well & is just some of the things I've noticed about it.
 

Old Longhair

Crazy Ol' Foole
Staff member
Pinpoint is also effective tool. You can size the target with Pinpoint, and in the case where the edge of a larger object excited and fooled the machine, the size will give it away.
 
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