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Battery connection problem.

My etrac battery doesn't seem to want to connect a lot of times when I first slide it in. Usually I have to slide it in several times before it will turn on. I've cleaned the terminals with steel wool so I'm assuming the problem is with the connection inside the battery compartment. Should I try taking it apart to check it out? I hate to send it back in under warranty just for this.
 
Hey Robert, I had to send my new 3 week old etrac in for repair. One of the push buttons sometimes wouldn't work. I hated sending it in, but I got it back with in 2 weeks. They did a good job, and it's like new. I would just send it in under warranty. Just make sure you double box it.....I know it sucks, but they will take care of you.
 
before you do that try taking something long and skinny and see if you can shine up the ends of the battery springs inside the handle. maybe just a rag with a little windex on it or something. just a thought.
 
I've had the exact same problem on and off . I'm sure it's a connection issue ---either dirt or the springs in the handle aren't creating enough pressure to hold the contacts tight. I have always been able to remedy it by either pushing the battery tighter into the holder or simply removing and reinstalling it. The problem pretty much went away when I began using the RNB , so perhaps there's a slight dimensional difference between them. I always thought I would try to find something I could reach into the compartment with and "stretch" the spring out a little before I sent it to Minelab but haven't got to that point yet.
 
in my very old 1984 whites metal detector i used to put a wad of paper towel behind the battery before closing the cover to tighten it up because it used to do the same thing. it was actually a bit sloppy in the compartment and id lose the connection quite a bit without it.
 
Sounds like the internal contact springs could have collapsed some maybe by violently dropping the bat. holder into the detector housing, in which case you could send it back or get a long spring pick, a good flashlight and pull the springs out some but be careful you don't create permanent junk.

Did you also polish the battery +/- contacts inside the battery holder with find steel wool?
 
ironsight said:
Sounds like the internal contact springs could have collapsed some maybe by violently dropping the bat. holder into the detector housing, in which case you could send it back or get a long spring pick, a good flashlight and pull the springs out some but be careful you don't create permanent junk.

Did you also polish the battery +/- contacts inside the battery holder with find steel wool?
I didn't know you could open up the rechargeable battery holder ?
 
robertj298 said:
ironsight said:
Sounds like the internal contact springs could have collapsed some maybe by violently dropping the bat. holder into the detector housing, in which case you could send it back or get a long spring pick, a good flashlight and pull the springs out some but be careful you don't create permanent junk.

Did you also polish the battery +/- contacts inside the battery holder with find steel wool?
I didn't know you could open up the rechargeable battery holder ?
Sorry, was thinking about the auxiliary battery holder.
I personally do not use the stock sealed battery pack. Its got a pathetic maH rating.
I relegate it to emergency backup only. Its seldom if ever used.

I found by using the auxiliary pack, loading it with high capacity niMH batteries, that'll easily last twice as long and the sealed pack.
Couple that with a smart quick battery charger, my niMH batteries can be charged in an hour or so, in the car or at home.

Factory sealed battery packs use special batteries which have solderable tabs on their +/- terminals which eliminats internal contact issues.
Never took the sealed ML pack apart but i assume its the same.
 
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