I haven't even used my excal yet and I already know I won't be comfortable with the short unbalanced factory s-shaft. I've decided to make a straight shaft w/ the control box mounted under the cuff. I've ordered the tubing and quick release buttons (for battery and control box). I'm still trying to decide how I want to do the arm cuff and pistol grip. I'm pretty sure I've seen replacement grips (not just the foam) for the Sovereigns somewhere, but can't remember where. My biggest problem so far is finding a locking ring for the lower stem union. I have no idea what the technical name is for them. I tried McMaster Carr, but could find nothing. Does anyone have any ideas? I think in the end this will cost just a little less than a brand new Anderson shaft. Thanks for any comments and ideas.
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Building straigt shaft for excal
- Thread starter OBX Franz
- Start date
The shaft lock can be ordered on Ebay. There are two types available a stock camlock and a greatly improved shaft lock that tightens by use of a wing nut (It's worth the extra $6.) For the grip try searching for "Bar ends". They are used by mountain bikers and clamp onto the upper shaft perfectly.
O you can build these for about $30.00
U get the tube at Aircraftspruce.com get 6061t6 7/8 OD .745 ID 4 feet @ $3.20 per foot #03 36450.Your lower shaft will measure .744 which makes for a very nice fit requiring no lock nuts. Go to a bike shop and get the long bar ends with the bend $19.95 a pair and pick up a package of foam grip covers (4) for $9.95. Use your arm cuff off your old S rod and the pods for templates to drill the 1/4 holes. Use 1 3/4 x 1/4 SS bolts if U can find them otherwise get 2 inch and grind them down. Use SS wing nuts on the pods and a SS/nylon lock nut on the cuff. I usually remove about 6 inches from the 4 ft length so I can put much more lower up in the tube for more strength
If U don't use the tubing from Aircraft spruce all bets are off
HH
U get the tube at Aircraftspruce.com get 6061t6 7/8 OD .745 ID 4 feet @ $3.20 per foot #03 36450.Your lower shaft will measure .744 which makes for a very nice fit requiring no lock nuts. Go to a bike shop and get the long bar ends with the bend $19.95 a pair and pick up a package of foam grip covers (4) for $9.95. Use your arm cuff off your old S rod and the pods for templates to drill the 1/4 holes. Use 1 3/4 x 1/4 SS bolts if U can find them otherwise get 2 inch and grind them down. Use SS wing nuts on the pods and a SS/nylon lock nut on the cuff. I usually remove about 6 inches from the 4 ft length so I can put much more lower up in the tube for more strength
If U don't use the tubing from Aircraft spruce all bets are off
HH
Critterhunter
New member
Yes, Camlocks don't do much. I don't use one on my custom light weight GT shaft. Instead, drill a hole all the way through both shafts so the two headed snap pin can snap through the hole on both of them. Minelab only drills one hole side out but the snap pin for height adjustment is two headed. Really snugs up the slop the camlock won't take care of. You could also put a bolt through the hole and tighten that down with a nut to really make sure it's snug.
Wow, never would have thought to search for "bar ends", Thanks everyone! Erikk: Sorry, by the time I read your message I'd already ordered some 7/8" tubing from McMaster Carr. For my next one, I definitely will order from Aircraftspruce though, price is definitely better. Critter- I was wondering what was going on with the snap thing in the lower rod when I peered in there. I thought it might be a stop of some sort to prevent the snap from getting pressed in too far, but now that I look again, it is a double snap. But again, I already ordered a wing-nut cam lock off ebay and a couple stainless double snaps from McMaster Carr before reading this! I found one Sovereign grip for $30 online, but I will probably search for bar ends. Just found some black plastic plugs to cap the tubes with and ordered six. While I wait for all the stuff to ship, I guess I'll be deciding where it will be most comfortable to put the control box along the shaft, what color to make it, etc etc.
Critterhunter
New member
I use a bike end bar and a rubber grip cover for the grip on my custom light weight GT shaft, as well as the stock shaft that I use for water hunting with my GT...Because I don't like the stock grip. I don't like the feel of it and it's not at the right angle for me. A bike end bar with a rubber grip cover put on it is SO much more comfortable. I've also wired a remote pinpoint switch inside the hollow end bar on my land rig too that hangs down like it does on a Whites. And I mounted the DIgiSearch meter on top of that with a pipe hanger.
Make sure you drill two tiny holes on both sides of the shaft right above the coil's plastic mount that is inside the tube. Stick a measuring tape down the tube and measure where it ends, then drill right above that a hair so all the water will drain out of it on land. Some guys water hunt with a land machine still on the shaft and then doing this is even more important because when you lay it down water will run up the shaft and into the control box. Still good to do on a water machine though so it drains out when you leave the water.
Make sure you drill two tiny holes on both sides of the shaft right above the coil's plastic mount that is inside the tube. Stick a measuring tape down the tube and measure where it ends, then drill right above that a hair so all the water will drain out of it on land. Some guys water hunt with a land machine still on the shaft and then doing this is even more important because when you lay it down water will run up the shaft and into the control box. Still good to do on a water machine though so it drains out when you leave the water.
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
That little 800 xcal, I would get a Whites Tallman Lower Rod..that way you can cover a wider area..Good Only for wetsand, once in the water you need more coil control so shorter is better. Aluminum is nice but Carbon Fiber is totally unaffected by Saltwater..No Oxidizing or sticking...
As you can see by Erikk's photo, you must have one of each of the additive colors (yellow, cyan, magenta) to cover the spectrum of possibilities. 
actually, I like erikk's color selection; me, I just stick with standard dull colors for most things. I think I'm going to go with carbon fiber like OBN suggests when I get around to making mine. For the immediate needs, I got a pluggers straight shaft which is nicely adjustable for various needs as they change, or as location changes.
actually, I like erikk's color selection; me, I just stick with standard dull colors for most things. I think I'm going to go with carbon fiber like OBN suggests when I get around to making mine. For the immediate needs, I got a pluggers straight shaft which is nicely adjustable for various needs as they change, or as location changes.OldBeechnut said:
I got my aluminum today... it's a REALLY exact fit. Sticking is the first thing I thought about when I test fitted the lower.. And like you mentioned, aluminum and salt aren't the best of friends, so I'm even more concerned about sticking. For now I guess I could rig a little cylinder hone and run it up and down the tube where the lower fits to loosen it up a little. I guess I'll start looking at making a carbon fiber version. I've got 50 7/8" saddle fittings, I gotta use em on something!
I may get a plugger or anderson someday, but this is more fun. I haven't used my drill press in years, it's nice to make something with metal again. It's also something to work on detecting-wise while I can't get out to hunt. I made some of my tolerances a little too close today, and I'm just glad I bought a little more tubing than needed! I probably will go w/ the grease & clean method instead of honing it. It IS anodized and I never considered the damage sanding it might cause.
Here's some pic's of my "Anderson Clone" project. Right now I have finished the test fit assembly. I am going to use the factory arm cuff, but plan on adding a velcro strap to it. I hope to find time to paint it tomorrow (probably black, maybe a really dark blue). I'm still waiting on the grip and end plugs to arrive. I am debating shortening the upper a little, but will wait until I've actually used it some before I make the final decision. The plugger tube lock works great. I'm not even going to bother drilling holes for the pins on the lower shaft. Pretty bad sign I can find the time for stuff like this, but not fix the big ding in my truck bed! It's starting to rust, so I guess I shouldn't put it off any longer.
i ordered an Anderson with the detector and never even tried the factory shaft. I have the long shaft where the unit extends behind the arm cuff and the weight balance is great. Feels like you can swing it all day. i don't know if anyone else has theirs set up that way but it works great.
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Looks real nice frank, like the pod mounted position, So what's next on the list?