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Consolidated FE/CO Readings for E-Trac

E-TREC-Virginia

New member
Hi Everyone,

I went through Andy's book and consolidated all of the FE/CO readings from all of the sections into the listing below. I have it in a spreadsheet, but an xls format is not a valid attachment file. Some of the readings will not be the same in all conditions, since they were taken from the beach, relics, coins, etc.. sections, but I thought it was nice to have them in one consolidated list. Use as a cheat sheet on your hunts or something to study if you have nothing else to do.

FE CO Find
01 41 - 43 Silver Dollar
06 - 08 46 - 47 Silver Half Dollar
08 23 Brass Military Coat Button
11 04 Small Copper Button, Corroded
11 06 .22 Bullet and Casing
11 07 Lead Button
11 08 Pewter Button Fragment
11 12 Tiny Copper Coin
11 16 Copper Coin
11 20 Lead Pistol Ball, Tiny Buckle
11 26 Rounded Button
11 38 Copper Half Penny
11 46 Silver Irish Coin
12 02, 04 Platinum Ring, Siladium Women's Class Ring
12 03 Tin Foil, 18KT Thin Band
12 04 10KT Ring
12 06 14KT Pinky Ring, Medium Button
12 07 10KT Gold Charm
12 09, 14 Pewter Button
12 13 - 14 Nickel, 14KT Ring
12 15 Plated Spoon
12 15 - 18 Rectangular Pull Tab
12 16 Fly Button
12 18 - 19 Small Copper Button, Thin Copper Disc
12 22 - 24, 26 - 27 Flying Eagle
12 22 - 24 Round Pull Tap
12 23 14KT Heavy Ring
12 24 14KT Ring with Diamonds, Copper Coin
12 25 10KT Onyx Ring
12 26 Silvered Button
12 26 - 27 Shotgun Brass
12 28 Copper Farthing
12 31, 34 14KT Ring
12 32 Civil War Minnie Ball (.5:geek:
12 33 Civil War Minnie Ball (.69), .223 Brass Casing, Harmonica Reed - 1800's, George V Half Penny
12 33 - 38 Indian Head
12 35, 38 Screw Cap
12 36 - 37 Zinc Penny
12 38, 40 Small Lead Weight
12 40 Small Silver Ring
12 41 Copper Penny
12 42 Silver Military Medal
12 42, 44 Wheat Penny
12 43 Copper English Token
12 43 - 44 Dime, Silver Dime
12 44 George lll Copper Coin
12 46 Quarter, Silver Quarter, Large One Cent, SBA Dollar, Sacagawea Dollar
13 03 Thin Foil
13 28 Copper Button
13 43 Sterling Silver Charm
13 45 Large Lead Weight
17 44 Steel 10 mm Nut
18 17 Steel Screw
18 37 Civil War Artillery Shell
20 41 Steel Bolt
24 38 Cannon Ball
28 37 Steel Key
30 46 Rusty Iron
32 18 Small Tack
32 40 Iron Ring
32 45 1897 Two Pence
33 46 Rusted Iron Bolt
34 45 Square Nail


Happy Hunting
 
thanks ,,, made a pocket guide out of it,,,
 
That entire list can be condensed into one sentence. IF YOU AREN'T DIGGING EVERYTHING, YOU COULD BE MISSING GREAT TARGETS.
 
Thanks for your effort.
 
It is just a matter of percentages of good verses bad per hour of hunt time.The more bad targets you dig will leave that much less time to find good targets thus at the end of the day you will have missed some good targets because you ran out of time before you ever got close to them.If a person is long on hunt time and short on good sites to hunt the old dig everything attitude makes a lot of sense though :thumbup:
 
Goes4ever said:
You can add fatty indians in the 12-24 range

Thanks, not sure how I missed that one. I'm sure that it's in Andy's book somewhere and I've found them in that range.
 
Ray-Mo. said:
It is just a matter of percentages of good verses bad per hour of hunt time.The more bad targets you dig will leave that much less time to find good targets thus at the end of the day you will have missed some good targets because you ran out of time before you ever got close to them.If a person is long on hunt time and short on good sites to hunt the old dig everything attitude makes a lot of sense though :thumbup:

Exactly. If my hunt is for several hours, I will tend to dig more targets. If only for an hour or two, I will cherry pick a little more. If I'm hunting a new site, I will dig everything until I get a feel for what's under the ground and how the FE/CO readings are hitting and until I've cleared most of the trash.
 
You're right: the usual mantra of "dig everything, lest you miss a goodie that didn't happen to have a good TID", etc... is not always the best advice.

For example: one time I went out to go turf hunting in an old park with a fellow. I told him I was going to be ignoring surface targets, passing foil, etc... He BRISTLED at the thought of such ignorance, telling me "you might miss a gold ring!". And when I told him I was going to be angling for the older coins which were usually deeper ...", he said "but sometimes old coins are not deep, d/t gophers might have brought them up in the past", etc... (and this is true, sometimes flukes do occur, and yes, sometimes old coins are not deep in un-disturbed turf).

You see: in his mind, he was going to have the "best of both worlds" by "digging all" (with the exception of iron, I suppose). Ie.: he would, like myself, get old coins, and he would also get the clad, jewelry, etc...

But time after time when I'd go out with this fellow, the results would be predictable: I would end the hunt with a silver or two, multiple wheaties and such, etc.. And I'd have very little clad, not much junk (barring deeper items I chased), etc... And he, on the other hand, might have a single wheatie, a handful of clad, and reams of trash. He couldn't understand why I was getting more oldies than him each time, since ........ afterall, he was "digging all", and thus, he could and would be hearing those same deep signals too, right?

But it's all in the odds: while it's true that occasionally an old coin is shallow, the truth is, that in un-disturbed turf, it is *normally* stratified, where the newer coins are generally shallower, and the older coins are *normally* deeper. And while it's true that a smaller gold ring, or dangly thin gold chain will read down around foil or tab, yet ODDS are, that those signals in junky park turf, are going to be (doh) foil and tabs!

Sure, once in awhile he'd come in with a worthless V-nickel that I might have passed. And once in awhile yes, he'd get a gold ring that I probably would have passed. But he got very few old coins.

It's all in the odds. Just like Blackjack in Las Vegas: You "hold" when you have 20 in your hand, EVEN though the next card *might* be a 1 card. Because odds are, it's not.

The place to dig all, would be places like the beach which are simply more condusive to jewelry losses, to begin with, and afford easy digging :) And of course in relicky site, urban demolition, etc.... then sure, dig out all the foil, tabs, etc... In those places, depth has little correlation to age and type of targets. But I can think of parks where you would go crazy and simply give up, if you thought you were going to be a hero and look for gold rings amidst the junk. You'd be better off to find a swimming beach, if gold jewelry is your goal, than certain urban blighted park turf.
 
I hope everyone who uses this info has sent payment to Andy for his book. I am writing an informational book on a topic other than metal detecting. I hope people would buy my book rather than just copy info from it and share it around for free. I may be all wrong, What has Andy said about this.
 
Idprospector said:
I hope everyone who uses this info has sent payment to Andy for his book. I am writing an informational book on a topic other than metal detecting. I hope people would buy my book rather than just copy info from it and share it around for free. I may be all wrong, What has Andy said about this.

You know, I gave this comment a lot of serious thought before choosing to respond to it. If somebody thinks they've gotten everything that Andy's book has to offer by copying this conglomeration of FE/CO numbers, then they've "got another think coming". I would be mightily surprised if this posting would give Andy a second of hesitation, with him knowing full well that anybody could've done tests on the same objects and would've come up independently with the same or similar numbers.

I think Andy is enough of a professional to realize that quotes and/or distillations from his text on forums such as this are mute testimony to the veracity of his original text. I can't begin to imagine him being so small-minded as to consider what are essentially direct quotes from his book as anything but flattering.

in my own humble opinion, Andy's book is one of those rare instances of a resource that is of such great value that it is almost required reading to anyone wishing to get the most out of their Etrac. His book quickly leads the reader to a depth of understanding that would have taken most people years of meticulous trial and effort to figure out.

I hope (very sincerely) that the same can be said of your book once it's completed.
 
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