Hi. MDing since 83 in the dirt with occasional trips to the beach. 28 yrs with an analog. Jan. 2012 got an xterra 705. Enjoy that on the beach. Live 70 miles from the closest saltwater. So not my primary-but I want to do more at the beach. Not a diver but I want to wade.
After deciding and looking for a few years I have a Fisher CZ 20 on the way. $, location & frequency of beach time dictated my choice. Been re- reading reviews and all I can now that I made my choice. Buyer gave me an option to return it. My criteria for final sale is-must arrive intact, be completely functional and watertight (to wade depth of 5) To be fair I want to prep it and take it to the saltwater. I will utilize the info that I have read from the two sites I belong to. So most of the info I refer to is from here or the other MD site.
A few QUESTIONS please. Any input will be welcome as I have never used a Fisher or any water MD. Ordered a manual.
Seller only used it in water 1 time- no leaks. He was the 2nd owner.
Aware from reading- potential leaks-battery door (cracks from over tightening),gaskets,silicon grease use, Face plate-PP button & LED.
Will I be able to see possible cracks-with a magnifier & bright light? If there are any-can I remedy that short of buying a replacement?
Silicon the gasket-read it many times. Manual states not to use silicon grease. Should I apply it a described in many of the threads Ive read here? (Light coat and make sure its seated properly.)
Read of sealing the PinPoint button (and LEDs) and then NOT using the PP (use detune to PP). Fine with me-BUT the manual indicated using the PP for tuning or GB. SO can you GB without using the PP?
I want to check it in the saltwater after reading about a bell tone that occurs when either the internal boards OR the coil is not aligned or out of sync. That thread stated that the unit worked fine dry but would not work properly in the saltwater.
I know that its a disco. model and has some age. Some have problems and some still work great. I believe my criteria listed above is fair. And as stated this unit wont be subjected to depths greater than 5. That leads me to my final question.
Upgrades.cant afford that now. If it passes my criteria its a done deal. SO I read many different things about the upgrade to a 21. The prices seem to change over the years. Some indicated that it was more expensive in the past-then it is now. A lot of quotes discussed in threads from 2011-2012 were around $300. That was for the face plate.
What is the current cost?
Does that include circuit boards or just the plate?
Is that PRIOR to a water leak?
If there is a leak (main compartment) what options are there?
Abbreviated answers are fine. Ill keep reading AND I will call the company to ask about the upgrade. Still I value the info I read here. I could really use some input here.
Thank you,
GTzer
After deciding and looking for a few years I have a Fisher CZ 20 on the way. $, location & frequency of beach time dictated my choice. Been re- reading reviews and all I can now that I made my choice. Buyer gave me an option to return it. My criteria for final sale is-must arrive intact, be completely functional and watertight (to wade depth of 5) To be fair I want to prep it and take it to the saltwater. I will utilize the info that I have read from the two sites I belong to. So most of the info I refer to is from here or the other MD site.
A few QUESTIONS please. Any input will be welcome as I have never used a Fisher or any water MD. Ordered a manual.
Seller only used it in water 1 time- no leaks. He was the 2nd owner.
Aware from reading- potential leaks-battery door (cracks from over tightening),gaskets,silicon grease use, Face plate-PP button & LED.
Will I be able to see possible cracks-with a magnifier & bright light? If there are any-can I remedy that short of buying a replacement?
Silicon the gasket-read it many times. Manual states not to use silicon grease. Should I apply it a described in many of the threads Ive read here? (Light coat and make sure its seated properly.)
Read of sealing the PinPoint button (and LEDs) and then NOT using the PP (use detune to PP). Fine with me-BUT the manual indicated using the PP for tuning or GB. SO can you GB without using the PP?
I want to check it in the saltwater after reading about a bell tone that occurs when either the internal boards OR the coil is not aligned or out of sync. That thread stated that the unit worked fine dry but would not work properly in the saltwater.
I know that its a disco. model and has some age. Some have problems and some still work great. I believe my criteria listed above is fair. And as stated this unit wont be subjected to depths greater than 5. That leads me to my final question.
Upgrades.cant afford that now. If it passes my criteria its a done deal. SO I read many different things about the upgrade to a 21. The prices seem to change over the years. Some indicated that it was more expensive in the past-then it is now. A lot of quotes discussed in threads from 2011-2012 were around $300. That was for the face plate.
What is the current cost?
Does that include circuit boards or just the plate?
Is that PRIOR to a water leak?
If there is a leak (main compartment) what options are there?
Abbreviated answers are fine. Ill keep reading AND I will call the company to ask about the upgrade. Still I value the info I read here. I could really use some input here.
Thank you,
GTzer