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Disc and Notch on the Sov Elite

robby4570

Member
Could someone please help me? I know I am overthinking the matter... How does the notch and disc work on the Sov ELITE? Could someone explain it so maybe the "lightbulb" will come on for me? I usually hunt the beach and leave notch and disc at "0", hunt in ALL METAL mode with max sensitivity and variable tone on. When I get a target I'll switch to "DISC" mode to listen to the target. Even if it's a really "iffy" signal, I will usually dig it (it's really easy to dig targets in the sand with a 720i scoop) to see what it is. I want to start coinshooting parks and relic hunt old properties and I'm going to have to get more selective on targets to maximize my time.

I plan on playing around with the notch and disc in a makeshift test garden at the beach (I don't have a yard to make one in) one day and hope for that "AH HA!!" moment, but would appreciate any help.
 
The disc knob discriminates out everything below where it is set. For example, if you set it at foil. foil and lower conductors like nails will null or disc out. Now here's where the pie analogy comes into play: when you set the NOTCH, your actually only taking a narrow "slice" out of the rest of the pie that's left to "notch out" just the targets you wish to eliminate (like certain pulltabs for instance) that are ABOVE the already disced out items. So if your coinshooting and want to eliminate most nails, foil and some pulltabs but still retain nickels and higher conductors like pennies, dimes, and quarters, you can! Just make sure you test the item first that you would like to notch out. It should null or break up if done correctly. But remember, you will lose fine gold in the foil range. You should still be able to nab a men's ring or two however as that is closer to the nickel's conductivity. HH and good luck out there! George Fatizzi
 
gfatizzi said:
The disc knob discriminates out everything below where it is set. For example, if you set it at foil. foil and lower conductors like nails will null or disc out. Now here's where the pie analogy comes into play: when you set the NOTCH, your actually only taking a narrow "slice" out of the rest of the pie that's left to "notch out" just the targets you wish to eliminate (like certain pulltabs for instance) that are ABOVE the already disced out items. So if your coinshooting and want to eliminate most nails, foil and some pulltabs but still retain nickels and higher conductors like pennies, dimes, and quarters, you can! Just make sure you test the item first that you would like to notch out. It should null or break up if done correctly. But remember, you will lose fine gold in the foil range. You should still be able to nab a men's ring or two however as that is closer to the nickel's conductivity. HH and good luck out there! George Fatizzi

Thanks George! So I set the disc as low as I can and lose everything below that, disc doesn't effect notch though, correct? So if I set the disc knob to FOIL and the notch to thefirst point in PULLTABS, I'll still get nickels?? It would seem that with notch at PULLTABS I'd lose nickels... Does anyone have a starting point setting they use for a park hunt? I'll be able to get out and play with this on Friday so maybe after that I'll understand a bit better.
 
robby4570 said:
gfatizzi said:
The disc knob discriminates out everything below where it is set. For example, if you set it at foil. foil and lower conductors like nails will null or disc out. Now here's where the pie analogy comes into play: when you set the NOTCH, your actually only taking a narrow "slice" out of the rest of the pie that's left to "notch out" just the targets you wish to eliminate (like certain pulltabs for instance) that are ABOVE the already disced out items. So if your coinshooting and want to eliminate most nails, foil and some pulltabs but still retain nickels and higher conductors like pennies, dimes, and quarters, you can! Just make sure you test the item first that you would like to notch out. It should null or break up if done correctly. But remember, you will lose fine gold in the foil range. You should still be able to nab a men's ring or two however as that is closer to the nickel's conductivity. HH and good luck out there! George Fatizzi

Thanks George! So I set the disc as low as I can and lose everything below that, disc doesn't effect notch though, correct? So if I set the disc knob to FOIL and the notch to thefirst point in PULLTABS, I'll still get nickels?? It would seem that with notch at PULLTABS I'd lose nickels... Does anyone have a starting point setting they use for a park hunt? I'll be able to get out and play with this on Friday so maybe after that I'll understand a bit better.
Robby here is a good video on notch and disc on sovereign gt makes no difference same machine very informative , towards the end . GL Jim
http://youtu.be/xrNiKYbIySE
 
the best way to learn it is to use it. try setting a nickel, piece of foil and pulltab on the ground about a foot apart. set your disc at 0 and then use your notch dial to see where those particular objects get eliminated by your notch setting. also check and notice once youve eliminated a pulltab, does it still hit the nickel cleanly or do you have to adjust it some more. sad thing is foil and pulltabs come in a variety of shapes/sizes and also if you notice is common to find the beavertail pulltabs wrapped inside the O ring thats part of them. that in itself will change the way the detector sees the pulltab and it will read differently. so you can see its very challenging. if all your after is to pick up nickels and higher conductive coins then setting it up is easy. raise your disc to elimnate foil but still get nickels and then set your notch to eliminate a pulltab but get nickels cleanly. there you go.
 
First thing is you can not reject the zinc pennies or anything above that which is good. The notch always has to be set higher than the disc in order to work. The notch is a small area you can reject higher then what the disc is set at, so you can run the disc up a little or none at all and then set the notch for the item that is the most bother some, but you cant notch out all the different pull tabs, but can disc out most all of them, but get no nickles. So what I do is use no notch at all or to me the worst pull tabs as those that read higher up so I turn the notch all the way up with the disc low and those pull tabs that read up close to the 160 on a 180 meter will either null out or the signal will break up and not repeat like a coin would. I find many of the round pull tabs and the beaver tails read close to a nickle and if you notch them out you could lose the nickle. I also find that a nickle will have a sound all to itself it seems from experience, so some of the war nickles will read in the area where round pull tabs read, but have a different tone to them or sounds different.
Just remember the notch has to be higher than the disc setting in order to work as you cant notch out a target you have disc out only those you can notch out is those not disc out and cant disc out or notch out the zinc pennies as you would lose the older wheat's and IH pennies too.


Rick
 
Thanks for the info guys, unfortunately I've been grounded from Detecting for a week or two. I shoved a piece of powdercoating up under my fingernail and had to have it removed by a Doctor (the powdercoating, not the nail). Doc said no "tecting - basically keep my hand raised and be gentle with it for 1 to 2 weeks if I want to keep the nail.

So once I heal up and get back at it I will try out the info from here and report back...

311020_10152736477665635_2071498905_n.jpg

This is 1/3 of it, and all that I was able to pull out by myself


67509_10152734610905635_1291759630_n.jpg

Took this at the Doc's office waiting to have the rest removed. 6 shots of Lidocaine, lifted the nail off the bed and grabbed the "Foreign Body" with tweezers and removed it. About 10 minutes in all.


417869_10152734613480635_924714267_n.jpg

24 hours after removal.... kinda sore NOW...
 
I wear gloves most of the time because of glass and other sharp objects.Hope your finger heals with no complications.HH Ron
 
Hey. That looks like my finger a few weeks back when I tried to nail it to a 2x4. Get Well.
 
Last summer shortly after I received my GT I made a trip to the beach. I wore sandals. When I got home I washed up all my equipment and was putting my sand scoop in the Garage. I started back in the house and missed my step and caught the nail on my big toe on the brick and tore the nail about 3/4th of the way off. Friday afternoon and not a single foot doctor in the area was working. My family doctor was also not working. Called his office and his Nurse Practitioner was available. She really grimaced when she saw my toe. She called the MD and about 20 minutes later he arrived at his office and proceeded to finish the removal of the nail. The shots that the MD administered to numb the toe hurt far worse than the tearing of the nail. Nine months later the Nail has grown about 3/4th of the way back, I no longer wear sandals.
 
Yeah, I did this at work, not MD'ing. That Lidocaine is HORRIBLE! Amazing that something that numbs you so that you don't feel pain hurts so danged bad!
 
I take a small drill bit, sterilize, drill down to it, may take several "holes" to make enough room, pick out, bandaid over it...as my nail grows, the hole moves to the end, and presto, good as new! disclaimer; may not be for everyone, but works for me...good for the blood blisters under the nail when you hit it hard, too.
 
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