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Dont understand display

Clodhopper51

New member
Trying to figure out 3030 display. User manual says horizontal is conductivity and vertical is ferrous so what is the number in the display preceding depth indication
 

IDXMonster

Well-known member
Which number are you asking about? Have you been through the manual thoroughly?
 

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Clodhopper51

New member
as you can tell I am new to this .Read the manual and still did not get an explanation of what the number at the top of display screen means. i dont know how to use it to distinguish between good targets and junk. I have used the detector on the beach in Florida primarily so hunting there was pretty easy but now I am trying to use it in middle Tennessee and the soil is mineralized. The number again is in front of the depth indication and reads 12-13 or so
 

IDXMonster

Well-known member
The display is set up 0-50 Conductive reading left to right. It is set up 0-35 Ferrous top to bottom. So, something that isn’t that conductive will read further to the left. A coin, which is very conductive, will read further to the right.
A target with a low ferrous reading will read further toward the top, something with a higher ferrous content will read toward the bottom. The machine runs on a 2 axis display, and the numbers you see here for example...13-46...indicate the INTERSECTION of those two readings. It is reading 13 points down from the top and 46 points to the right...and at that intersection is where this particular target, a clad quarter, falls. 13 out of 35 isn’t that ferrous, but 46 out of 50 is VERY conductive...a target you would want. You can also see the red cursor plotted on the screen at this “intersection”. In this example, the target is reading 6” deep.
90B4DAD6-4631-4D9B-9D83-7C7D886BE4C5.jpeg
 

laplander

Moderator
Staff member
Most coins will read with the first digits on the 12 line. You can customize your screen to show the numbers big in the middle or small in the top. the later was my preference so you could see the target cursor better.
HH Jeff
 

IDXMonster

Well-known member
Aluminum is another “highly conductive item”, just like a coin. This is where the BASICS of metal detecting come into play to try and determine if a coin is present, or it’s a bigger piece of aluminum. Watch the ENTIRE video.
 

Elmy

Well-known member
Aluminum is another “highly conductive item”, just like a coin. This is where the BASICS of metal detecting come into play to try and determine if a coin is present, or it’s a bigger piece of aluminum. Watch the ENTIRE video.
excellent !
 

IDXMonster

Well-known member
Things like aluminum SCREW CAPS are a really hard deal, you’re digging them. They are the same conductive range, size and shape of a coin. It’s like a machine trying to differentiate between a pull tab and certain gold items...it can’t, so we have to use certain methods we know of, and accept the result of the rest. The more you “coin hunt”, the more obvious it will be that the target is a coin... or not.
 

LTimedigger

Active member
Things like aluminum SCREW CAPS are a really hard deal, you’re digging them. They are the same conductive range, size and shape of a coin. It’s like a machine trying to differentiate between a pull tab and certain gold items...it can’t, so we have to use certain methods we know of, and accept the result of the rest. The more you “coin hunt”, the more obvious it will be that the target is a coin... or not.
Great video. The only thing I would add is with a 9" or smaller coil an object the size of a screwcap or larger will run the entire length of the EW DD coil while all coins smaller than a half will only run about 2" on each side of the NS rod of the DD. Since we are using an 11" in a trashy area, I'm assuming we are using disc coin mode along with manual transmission. This is when I wish we had a 9" coil. would be a little easier for detecting bottle caps and you could increase the gain a bit to make up the 1 or 2" depth loss. Of course a can or screw cap will mask most coins so just removing them is sometime worth it. pt
 

IDXMonster

Well-known member
Great video. The only thing I would add is with a 9" or smaller coil an object the size of a screwcap or larger will run the entire length of the EW DD coil while all coins smaller than a half will only run about 2" on each side of the NS rod of the DD. Since we are using an 11" in a trashy area, I'm assuming we are using disc coin mode along with manual transmission. This is when I wish we had a 9" coil. would be a little easier for detecting bottle caps and you could increase the gain a bit to make up the 1 or 2" depth loss. Of course a can or screw cap will mask most coins so just removing them is sometime worth it. pt
Yes! Well put LT. I knew it wasn’t an “obvious coin signal” and perhaps I shouldn’t have called it that but many would chase that. Just knowing what a coin should do at various depths is critical, IF a person is going to dig in a disciplined and targeted way. If the argument of “what if it were this” were to come up, then that is NOT “disciplined coin hunting”! It doesn’t make chasing stuff like that piece of aluminum in the video “wrong”, it just makes digging it with the hopes it’s a COIN wrong.
This notion of a 9” coil has been floated before and I am TOTALLY on board, it’s why I love my Sunray X-8 for the Explorer so much. The 10x5 Coiltek isn’t the solution, especially at that price. Im sure it’s nice, but isn’t going to help much here...
Rambljng a bit, sorry...your addition is SPOT on!
 

irnwrkr

Active member
If you get a signal that smears yellow investigate it. Had a bracelet and necklace smear yellow for me.
 
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