Explorer Batteries?

[LabradorBob]

Does anyone seem to notice a difference in the detector,when using a rechargeable NIMH battery pack,compared to the alkaline battery pack?
Just curious,as to differing oppinions!
Thanks,
LabradorBob

 

[Buddysox]

I use only my replacable battery packs that I bought some 3000 amp AAs for on EBay. Works fine and last a heck of a lot longer than the Minelab sticks at 16 and 1800. For grins I took apart one worn out Minelab stick to see whats in it. Guess what? Eight rechargable AA batteries! And the recharable stick costs a fortune. Yet I have talked to some guys that pay that price and will only use the rechargable Minelab stick in thier detectors. There is no difference how the machiene works just the batteries last longer.

 

[dewcon4414]

We all quarks or odd things we do that we believe improves our hunts. Some feel changing batteries when at half charge helps others just dont like the battery packs. Then there are those that prefer those 3000 nim batteries. There should be no difference in operation right down to when the good ole red light comes on telling you you are out of power. What i noticed was in the first week using a new battery pack, and this was even with the whites machines, i seemed to get more interference than with an older one. It just ran hotter. Thou the battery pack itself wont affect the operation... interference and such will. You need to properly charge and discharge the pack the first few times it improves the life of the battery and how it operates.... IMHO. ..... oh and ya whats up with the crazy price of those packs?

Dew

 

[monindou]

I've swapped between the ML rechargeable and the AA alkaline packs since I bought my SE (2+years) and there is no difference in the system's operation. I used to use the cheap Chinese made "Delco" labeled alkaline batteries but they'd only last about 8 hours. I finally came to my senses and long ago moved to AA rechargeable batteries.


With this said I have had a couple of problems BUT not with the operation of the detector. The problems I've had are:

1. I somehow shorted out a complete bank of four 2650's during a charge. I'm guessing I was "car charging" and forgot to unplug the loaded charger from the lighter when I turned the car on.

2. My AA pack is starting to separate at the seams and I've taped it to keep it together. I also have to tape the battery cover on. This has happened because I've swapped batteries in and out so many times.


A while back I saw somewhere on the forum - I'm not sure if it was the Explorer Forum, the E-Trac Forum, or the Explorer Classroom Forum - where a fellow had converted a standard ML AA pack into a AA rechargeable pack by removing the charger plug and soldering a couple of wires together. According to the poster the regular ML charger works OK with the conversion. The only thing I don't know is what the recharge time would be on 2500, 2650, or 3000 nmi batteries. I'd like to find that posting again and give it that a try though : \


Merry Christmas,
Doug M.

 

[grumpyolman]

I just wish people would go to a place like All Battery and purchase one of their good chargers. Mos all the frustrations, complications, and worries expressed here about detecting batteries, and their performance and maintenance could be history. I have reconditioned NiCads that others had thrown away. The pack in question when new held 650mah. It's four years old and hasn't had a charge for over a year. I put it on my Maha charger and I did a discharge/charge cycle on it. It drained the pack, in a manner that doesn't damage the pack, and recharged it and indicated it put 665 mah back in. Put your packs, no matter what type, shape, voltage, composition, and it'll charge them the way they are supposed to be charged. That's why they call em a 'smart charger.' As much as all of us depend on batteries to run our machines it really makes sense, and saves money, to have a good charger as one of the important accessories. To me it's more important than a good digging tool. Jim

 

[cachenut86]

Yes I noticed a different in performance. It goes deeper wirh new coppertops and sadly the rechargeables don't produce the same current. I went back to coppers after trying about 4 different brands of rechargeables.

I also wired a battery pack to take an external power source of 12.5 volts and purchased a small sealed lead acid battery which I now use to have full power 24x7. Works great. Don't exceed 13 volts or get the leads backwards. Cost was 8 for the battery and 15 for the battery pack. Paid for itself very quickly.

The battery is about size of 2 cigarette packs. You could use a car battery but carrying it around would be a botch.

I used lamp cord, sodder, hot glue, and some crimp connectors. No voltage regulator needed but you need a battery less than 13.

I verified all this with a minelab engineer before I did it. I ain't no dummy.

Joe.

 

[onemore]

Interesting... if I may ask a couple questions:

I like the Lithiums 'cause they are so light and last for days, but they are just too much $...

Do you carry the external battery separate from the machine, like in a pocket or pouch? If so, how do you prevent pulling on the wires when you set the machine down to dig a target?

Do you use a regular car battery charger to recharge it?

Thanks

 

[dewcon4414]

Id be cautious with Lithiums.... watch the voltage it shouldnt exceed 13V and clearly states that in your manual. Ok.... lets see a picture Joe. Sounds interesting as long as i dont look like that homeless person with aluminum foil and wires running everywhere.

Dew

 

[digginrebel]

I agree, I use one of these chargers and you never have to open the battery pack - just drop it on the pad, hit the pins and let it charge. They are great!

 

[grumpyolman]

Yeah! A good baterry charger is great tool. The best part is they will charge any of the batteries, any voltage, large or small mah rating, and at the correct rate of charge, except lead acid, or one of the lithium types. Look out fot the Lithium Polymer. They are supposed to be charged in a fireproof container. Used mostly for high draw DC motors on RC toys. Like my R/C helicopter. Jim

 

[cachenut86]

Sorry no pics. the battery is smallish and I clip it to my belt. About 1 pound. I have not purchased batteries for 2 years now. The cord is glued to the inside of the battery stick. And soddered to the contacts. The other end has clips and I soldered them too.

Yes the cord gets in the way a little but I put up with it. Thats the worst of it. I did have a heavy battery for a while not good. The one I have now last for about 40 plus hours. Small is better.

 

[papazitro]

Hello from Prescott. I just received my minelab explorrer 2, took out for first test run using only audible donnot understand the screen yet. Was able to pull up 23 coins with it very pleased so far see what more experience gets me in near future. What web site did you go to for the batteries. Have you used it on any of the old ghost and minning towns? Thank you Papa e mail trzrhntr@q.com

 

[Pete in MI]

Do you have a model number for a charger from All Batteries you use so I can look it up....would hate to spend money and get a wrong one. Thanks.

 

[kered]

Yes I noticed a different in performance. It goes deeper wirh new coppertops and sadly the rechargeables don't produce the same current. I went back to coppers after trying about 4 different brands of rechargeables.

I also wired a battery pack to take an external power source of 12.5 volts and purchased a small sealed lead acid battery which I now use to have full power 24x7. Works great. Don't exceed 13 volts or get the leads backwards. Cost was 8 for the battery and 15 for the battery pack. Paid for itself very quickly.

The battery is about size of 2 cigarette packs. You could use a car battery but carrying it around would be a botch.

I used lamp cord, sodder, hot glue, and some crimp connectors. No voltage regulator needed but you need a battery less than 13.

I verified all this with a minelab engineer before I did it. I ain't no dummy.

Joe.

No reasoning behind this, inside is a voltage regulator that don't let through any more than about 9v if the voltage doesn't get to 9v it shuts down, whatever voltage above that there is is not allowed through either
Explained in this Minelab video
rechargables in the AApack