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Finally added a MODE change push button on Excal

The endcaps on the newer Excals are a few thousandths smaller than the old NewYork style Excals. The "O" rings are also smaller making it a questionable seal. So what I did was take the old Excal endcap and fill the center hole with Marine epoxy, then I drilled and tapped the two new holes to take the headphone and push button strain reliefs. Now the seal is great just like before. (Minelab no longer has the old style endcaps.)
 
I also gutted the red headphones and installed the transducers in a comfortable pair of Bilsom muffs. The Excal is mounted on one of Pluggers shafts.
 
n/t
 
Thanks again, Mel for all the help..appreciate.....................joe.


ever wonder about the click when you go from PP to Discriminate

to see the mechanic's click image
 
Mel, put a tool in my hand and I am dangerous and yes my last name is the same as Tim the Tool Man. I am curious would you be willing to do this mod for others of course at a cost plus basis.

Gerry
 
i have to say this is a great mod,it has helped my machine allot, so much easier to just push the button on the hand grip while hunting..great job mel..
thanks for the great job..
good luck
john:clapping::detecting:
 
Great mod Mel. Great shallow water idea. I won't be doing this mod for some time to come - I've much-too-much to learn about the Excal first - very new to them. But I love your workmanship, and I know the mod is something very worthwhile. I'm fine with doing electronics modifications, but just got my first excal; used, but it's new to me. I am storing this bit of info for future reference.

One thing I have noticed is a number of people asking why Minelab doesn't implement things like this. I've come to the conclusion that they are making a product designed to dive with to 200 feet, and the fewer modifications (make that "things that can go wrong) they include, the better. Many people are using Excals in less than 130-200 feet of water, and those mods work in the shallower depths - but probably won't hold up to the pressures of deeper diving. I might be wrong about this, but it makes sense to me as to why they don't provide something like this. If it fails, they have a lot more warranties to cover. They could probably design an Excal that is for "shallow" water, but then would have to deal with failures on those due to people taking them deeper and saying they were in shallower water than they were. Just my two cents worth. Now, the headphones, that might be different.

Great photos and write up on the mod Mel. I wouldn't mind finding some end caps to have on hand just in case I decide to make a mod like this; but that's not going to be within the first year or two of my owing this one - unless I can find something valuable enough to generate the $ to get a second one - it could happen then!
 
Wawa-weewa!!!! That is some sweet stuff!. I will be modding one of my Excal II's in the coming weeks to exactly what you did. I can't wait for the disc/pinpoint push-button and the ability to change coils. You did some great work there. Thank you very much for sharing! HH -Marc
 
Mel was the Brain child of this Mod....This Mode turns the excalibur into a real hunting machine...along with the 3m Trekk headphone mod...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrhG4xgE5mc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVRtlsHVsjg
 
OBN - Excellent Videos - I'm going to have to do that headphone mod. The amp looks good too. Now, I just need a way to make enough time to do these things - spending all my time at work, school, and MDing.... Thanks for the videos!:thumbup:
 
I did the pelitor headphone mod with much thanks going to OBN. They turned out awesome. I really want to do this mod as well but I don't know where to order the minelab two hole end cap, O ring, and waterproof cable strain reliefs for my excal 2. I will be taking this in neck deep water so it's important that the unit stays waterproof.

Thanks again for all of the information posted on this mod.
 
Just done this mod and its great, so much easier to check targets out now :thumbup:
I did have a few challenges to overcome, but got there in the end!
Firstly, there was very little space in the endcap to drill through, so I had to drill a diagonal hole inside one of the wire 'loops', it was very tight , but i got it done by going from very small drills to larger ones in stages, making sure there was enough clearance (without cutting through the wires!)
[attachment 264585 _MG_5099.jpg]
The wire was an interferance fit in the hole, the outer cable conduit was tapered with a sharp knife to help with its fitment.
[attachment 264586 _MG_5094.jpg]
the electrical connector was then soldered (and sealed with heatshrink) on before filling the hole with quick setting epoxy resin.
[attachment 264588 _MG_5102.jpg]
[attachment 264589 _MG_5108.jpg]
Because where the wires came through the endcap was very close to where the printed circuit board sits in the cutouts, I angled the wires away from cutouts and embedded them in the resin.
[attachment 264591 _MG_5113.jpg]
Removing and re-fitting the innards back in the tube was a bit of a nightmare, but managed it after a few hours :help::rofl:
A quick bench test and it works great :clapping:
Hopefully off out tomorrow to test it properly once the sealant around the outside of the endcap has cured properly (doesnt really need it as it was a very tight seal, but just incase..!!)
 
That's a Sweet looking Job....Very Nice...I like it....:thumbup:
 
Forgot to add, I used this switch in the handle
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Apem-Push-Button-Blue-Round-Threaded-IP67-ISR3SAD200-ISR3SAD200160-/00/s/MjI1WDIyNQ==/z/QJAAAMXQgb1RIlC9/$T2eC16RHJGwE9n)yTUoqBRIlC9(7Vw~~60_35.JPG
Apem Push Button, Blue, Round, Threaded, IP67
 
Did that a LONG time ago on my machine and my buddys.Sure makes it easy to pinpoint ,no more reaching back.
I even asked the factory why they dont do that on their new machines.They told me other companys do it but not them DAH!!!
 
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