ihuntrelics!
New member
n/t
Find's Treasure Forums
Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
Click here to register!
Need Support Help?
Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
First field test on the 11" Pro coil at relic-hunting :minelab: :csflag:
- Thread starter ihuntrelics!
- Start date
Andy Sabisch
Active member
It seems at times that the first thing that gets posted are opinions on "how the mousetrap could have been made even better" even though the mousetrap that was released did a great job.
There is no doubt that a coil - any coil - that is open in design will tend to get snagged on sticks and debris in applications where this condition is the norm. There's now a lengthy thread on how Minelab "missed the boat" and "did not listen to people" when they released the 11" DD without a solid coil cover and with openings in the coil bottom itself.
With close to 30 detectors hanging around the house, I took a look this evening and saw that with two exceptions, all of the open design coils were just that open . . . . . including some such as the Tesoro Tejon, Fisher F-75, Whites DFX 300, Whites TDI Pulse and the Garrett GTI 2500 - all of which are marketed for relic hunting and are used extensively by relic hunters (as well as others searching sites other than smooth parks and lawns). None of these detectors offer solid coil covers.
I am not going to say that the 11" DD is unusable for relic hunting or wood hunting but I did use it under just these conditions in the woods around Atlanta and the low lying overgrown areas near Charleston during field tests. Did it get hung up? Yes, on occasion but no more than other coils did in the same areas.
There is a considerable cost associated with creating the mold for injection molding a coil cover and if the company - again, any company - does not see it as a financial viability, you will not see one unless a 3rd party supplier provides it.
Can you make one? Possibly, I have seen some ingenious products from treasure hunters over the years and if it works, does it matter what it looks like?
If you are that passionate about the slid cover by all means send Minelab an Email but I would not get irate if one is not available in the next month.
Just an observation . . . . . . from one that has several relic detectors which all have open spider-type coils
Andy Sabisch
There is no doubt that a coil - any coil - that is open in design will tend to get snagged on sticks and debris in applications where this condition is the norm. There's now a lengthy thread on how Minelab "missed the boat" and "did not listen to people" when they released the 11" DD without a solid coil cover and with openings in the coil bottom itself.
With close to 30 detectors hanging around the house, I took a look this evening and saw that with two exceptions, all of the open design coils were just that open . . . . . including some such as the Tesoro Tejon, Fisher F-75, Whites DFX 300, Whites TDI Pulse and the Garrett GTI 2500 - all of which are marketed for relic hunting and are used extensively by relic hunters (as well as others searching sites other than smooth parks and lawns). None of these detectors offer solid coil covers.
I am not going to say that the 11" DD is unusable for relic hunting or wood hunting but I did use it under just these conditions in the woods around Atlanta and the low lying overgrown areas near Charleston during field tests. Did it get hung up? Yes, on occasion but no more than other coils did in the same areas.
There is a considerable cost associated with creating the mold for injection molding a coil cover and if the company - again, any company - does not see it as a financial viability, you will not see one unless a 3rd party supplier provides it.
Can you make one? Possibly, I have seen some ingenious products from treasure hunters over the years and if it works, does it matter what it looks like?
If you are that passionate about the slid cover by all means send Minelab an Email but I would not get irate if one is not available in the next month.
Just an observation . . . . . . from one that has several relic detectors which all have open spider-type coils
Andy Sabisch
ihuntrelics!
New member
the extra holes in the bottom and on the x braces and those braces themselves. I didn't mean to step on your toes or anyone elses I'm just stating the facts that they DO grab more stuff than all the other coils I have swung over the very same conditons. It just seems to me that there are a whole lot of relic hunters out there that would purchase these new coils if this issue was addressed. I respect you for being the field tester and being a detectorist for all those years but I can bet you that you don't swing the coil in the conditions for as many hours each time out as I do. I only relic hunt, I'm not a coin shooter, I don't hunt the beaches for jewelry, I hunt for 8 or more hours each time out if I have the time. I hunt cut corn fields, cut hayfieids with lots of stuble, I hunt in overgrown pastures with weeds, briars & vines, I hunt in the deep woods with all kinds of undergrowth, sticks and branches laying everywhere, rocks & bolders cracks and crevices. No these aren't ideal conditions for any coil but that's where the relics are and that's where I hunt. Many times I am crawling through the undergrowth and briars. If you would have read all of my post there was a lot of praise for the new coil but I guess you just failed to notice that!!
While you are comparing all your different spider coils do you see all these extra holes in the bottom like these in the picture I've circled or do they all have these braces? I think not!!
[attachment 96867 DSC0044650.JPG]
While you are comparing all your different spider coils do you see all these extra holes in the bottom like these in the picture I've circled or do they all have these braces? I think not!!
[attachment 96867 DSC0044650.JPG]
This might be a naive suggestion, but couldn't one use some of that spray can expanding foam in those holes? That stuff is pretty dense and it might just prevent some snags without adding additional weight. I suspect a short quick spray will still cause some overflow, but after that stuff sets, you can trim it away with a knife or carefully sand it flush with the surface. It would certainly prevent dirt build up, and probably wouldn't interfere with coil covers. If it didn't work out, the foam could be scraped away after it set, no harm, no foul. Of course the foam wouldn't address the problem of vegetation coming up between the struts, but we all deal with that now on most open "spider" type coils.
Again, this might have been suggested before, but I've never seen a post on it.
Knipper
Again, this might have been suggested before, but I've never seen a post on it.
Knipper
Andy Sabisch
Active member
Terry,
Great suggestion . . . . and it does work. For less than $5 at your local home supply store, a can of this foam insulation will fill in the holes and it is sandable when dry (and weighs virtually nothing). Just protect the rest of the coil with duct tape before you start. The coil cover comes off and that takes care of the center holes. Tape the X-braces and you get the rest . . . . a little sanding and you have a smooth, solid bottom.
Nice suggestion to solve a problem
Andy Sabisch
Great suggestion . . . . and it does work. For less than $5 at your local home supply store, a can of this foam insulation will fill in the holes and it is sandable when dry (and weighs virtually nothing). Just protect the rest of the coil with duct tape before you start. The coil cover comes off and that takes care of the center holes. Tape the X-braces and you get the rest . . . . a little sanding and you have a smooth, solid bottom.
Nice suggestion to solve a problem
Andy Sabisch
And it will discolor--and it possibly could make the surrounding plastic of an expensive (fragile) coil even more brittle (over time).---I'd be careful using that stuff.---It MAY WORK (long term) but I've used it around my property---"I dunno".----Well, we must all agree on one thing----SOMETHING needs to be done (especially for relic hunters)-----right???---------Del
Yes, that material will discolor, but it will be on the underside of the coil, right ? You do raise a good point about the reaction with the plastic, though. There are several brands out there now. The one I used recently for patching a house hole was white, not yellow, and not as dense as the yellow foam in the red can. I think it would be prudent to test a small area on the struts with the foam to see if the foam alters or smears the plastic in any way. If it does, then back to the drawing board, I guess. Read the caution on the can to see if it says if it reacts to some plastics. As to protecting the coil's surrounding area, Andy's tip will work, but the blue painter's type tape will be easier to use to mask off the area and comes off a lot easier too. I forgot to suggest masking it off...thanks, Andy!
Knipper
Knipper
Great Republic
Active member
one of those shower cap type food container stretchy Glad made bowl container thingees?
My slimline coil falses too much for me!!! Everytime you bump it or are hunting in damp conditions it is aggravating to say the least.
Ok, so my SE doesn't suck, everybody's does it? I was trying a new lot last weekend, and my stock coil was falsing if I even skimmed the surface. I switched to my 8" and it went away. I went to a beach nearby and switched back to the stock coil, and no falsing. Driving me crazy.