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How Do I Detect Tin Can Alley..?

fastdraw

Well-known member
Need the advice of all you experienced detectors. I have the opportunity to detect an old historic military fort, (1861 to 1870) that is
on private property. It's never been detected before, as best as the owner knows, and I think he's right. About 5 original acres remain
of the old fort sight. BUT..... a just looked at it today, and I'm worried and baffled on how to do this...? Help Help..!

Sitting on top of the dirt, as well as just barely below the dirt, are hundreds & hundreds of rusty tin cans. Hundreds of fired brass
cartridges cases, bent knives, forks, spoons, lots of tobacco tins, etc... etc... I have old pictures of the fort,.... but no structures exist
anymore.

What do I set my Nox-600 so I only find coins..?

I need your advice and things to NOT do so I don't dig every 3-feet. It's almost overwhelming...! What recommended
settings would you set my Nox-600 on. Both Park-1 & Park-2
 
My advise is to get you a couple 5 gallon buckets, walk through an area the size you can hunt in a couple hours and pick up all the cans you can see, then next go over the same area and do a high coil search ( raise the coil about 6" off the ground) and get as many cans out as you can that way.
Now you can try and get some regular detecting done.
 
I'd suggest using the smaller 6" DD coil and whatever settings YOU feel might handle the rusty tin the best. Also, you'll want to work the site with a slow and methodical sweep and remember to overlap at least 50%.

However, I suggest you first take note of still looking 52's suggestions to define an area you want to hunt, grid it off, then remove all possible nails, tin and other challenging debris BEFORE you attempt to search the site. If it is heavily littered with ferrous discards, the good-target masking is going to be very difficult to overcome.

I hunt a few ghost towns that have areas that are terribly challenging to take on due to the amount of Iron Nails and other junk, especially rusty tin. Rusty tin, in particular, is really tough to deal with, and the better models I have in my outfit for taking on that type of trash are those using a 7" Concentric coil. Minelab doesn't provide you the option of a Concentric coil so that limits what you can do in the way of equipment. I do have fair success with a Minelab Vanquish 540 using the 5X8 DD and accepting all Disc. segments except the first two, and I favor the Jewelry mode for those searched. If there are only Iron Nails I use Low Iron Bias, but when I get into rusty tin and the like, I use High Iron Bias. Can't help with the Equinox.``

Monte
 
You would need and Etrac or CTX 3030 for more exact coin target ID if you could get them to stop masking in the thick targets you described. Otherwise, that sounds like an amazing place. First you could attach a pretty strong magnet to a wooden broom, rake, pick, axe or shovel handle (with or without the rake or shovel attached) and pick up most of the surface tin and iron in the area you are gridding and fill a bucket pretty quick without a lot of bending over.

You can use any Park or Field mode you want. For me, in a new place I would probably pick Field 1 multi to start. You have three choices. Listen to some iron while you detect. Listen to the threshold tone null (go silent) over iron targets and leave the accepted targets sounding good while any falsing iron in the mid teens to low 20s will break up a bit if the iron is not too big and then use the horseshoe button to double check for iron confirmation. Or, totally cherry pick.

So, say you want to hear some iron. Personally, I would hunt with nothing rejected if possible or at least -5 to +40 accepted so you will hear most of the iron. I would go into settings/volume, hold down the settings button until you see "t1" and set t1 to 1 so that the iron volume will be on the lowest audible volume level. Leave threshold on 0. Use 2 tones. I don't personally like the really low default iron grunt sound so I like to raise it up to setting 5 or 6 in thick iron. So if you want to do that hold down the settings button while at 2 tones until you see "t1" and raise t1 to 5 or 6. The medium tone created for that iron tone setting is a lot less fatiguing in my opinion. Leave accept/reject alone if you can. Set FE "iron bias" on 0 or 1 so the Nox will not mask good targets while trying to eliminate iron. Leave recovery speed on 3. Since you are just trying to get the easy stuff I would not put the sensitivity over 15 or so if you are doing a grid or just scouting the near surface layer of targets. Lead, gold, brass, bronze, copper and coin targets down to about 8" will really hit hard if they aren't masked too badly and will have very clear tones hopefully. If you ground balance carefully you can also use the Pinpoint function or just raise the coil to size targets. The depth meter is pretty good on coin sized targets too. On big stuff and little stuff it is fairly useless until you get used to it. If you keep your sensitivity down around 15 or a bit lower on the first pass it should also not sound off on every fly speck piece of metal.

If you want to hunt with an audible threshold tone you can set threshold on 4 to 7, 2 tones, FE 0 or 1, recovery speed 3 and leave Field 1 discrimination on the preset +2 to +40 accepted. When you hear the threshold null or a crackly teens to mid 20s target, check for iron with the horseshoe button.

If you want to try and cherry pick just the easy silver coins (forget the nickels, gold and indian heads in this case since they will all fall in the lead/brass/copper range) you can reject all the way up to 22 and leave 23 to 38 accepted. Reject 39 and 40 for iron wrap around or not....... You will still get some falsing bigger iron and tin (check with the horseshoe button) but the good coin targets should sound really nice. Keep the sensitivity around 15 or less on your first few passes of the gridded area. You could have default Park 1 set up for cherry picking (make sure to set iron bias on 0 or 1) and Field 1 set up for hearing iron or threshold tone and switch when you need to.
Just a few things I've tried and they worked pretty well.
good luck,
Jeff
 
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Just my opinoin but I t sounds like you have found the fort dump site, there will be lots of great items there. You might want to focus on some more open ground part of the time and work the trash pit alternately so you don't get to frustrated. Dan from NM would be great to here from as he lots of recent experience on an actual fort site.
HH Jeff
 
You would need and Etrac or CTX 3030 for more exact coin target ID if you could get them to stop masking in the thick targets you described. Otherwise, that sounds like an amazing place. First you could attach a pretty strong magnet to a wooden broom, rake, pick, axe or shovel handle (with or without the rake or shovel attached) and pick up most of the surface tin and iron in the area you are gridding and fill a bucket pretty quick without a lot of bending over.

You can use any Park or Field mode you want. For me, in a new place I would probably pick Field 1 multi to start. You have three choices. Listen to some iron while you detect. Listen to the threshold tone null (go silent) over iron targets and leave the accepted targets sounding good while any falsing iron in the mid teens to low 20s will break up a bit if the iron is not too big and then use the horseshoe button to double check for iron confirmation. Or, totally cherry pick.

So, say you want to hear some iron. Personally, I would hunt with nothing rejected if possible or at least -5 to +40 accepted so you will hear most of the iron. I would go into settings/volume, hold down the settings button until you see "t1" and set t1 to 1 so that the iron volume will be on the lowest audible volume level. Leave threshold on 0. Use 2 tones. I don't personally like the really low default iron grunt sound so I like to raise it up to setting 5 or 6 in thick iron. So if you want to do that hold down the settings button while at 2 tones until you see "t1" and raise t1 to 5 or 6. The medium tone created for that iron tone setting is a lot less fatiguing in my opinion. Leave accept/reject alone if you can. Set FE "iron bias" on 0 or 1 so the Nox will not mask good targets while trying to eliminate iron. Leave recovery speed on 3. Since you are just trying to get the easy stuff I would not put the sensitivity over 15 or so if you are doing a grid or just scouting the near surface layer of targets. Lead, gold, brass, bronze, copper and coin targets down to about 8" will really hit hard if they aren't masked too badly and will have very clear tones hopefully. If you ground balance carefully you can also use the Pinpoint function or just raise the coil to size targets. The depth meter is pretty good on coin sized targets too. On big stuff and little stuff it is fairly useless until you get used to it. If you keep your sensitivity down around 15 or a bit lower on the first pass it should also not sound off on every fly speck piece of metal.

If you want to hunt with an audible threshold tone you can set threshold on 4 to 7, 2 tones, FE 0 or 1, recovery speed 3 and leave Field 1 discrimination on the preset +2 to +40 accepted. When you hear the threshold null or a crackly teens to mid 20s target, check for iron with the horseshoe button.

If you want to try and cherry pick just the easy silver coins (forget the nickels, gold and indian heads in this case since they will all fall in the lead/brass/copper range) you can reject all the way up to 22 and leave 23 to 38 accepted. Reject 39 and 40 for iron wrap around or not....... You will still get some falsing bigger iron and tin (check with the horseshoe button) but the good coin targets should sound really nice. Keep the sensitivity around 15 or less on your first few passes of the gridded area. You could have default Park 1 set up for cherry picking (make sure to set iron bias on 0 or 1) and Field 1 set up for hearing iron or threshold tone and switch when you need to.
Just a few things I've tried and they worked pretty well.
good luck,
Jeff
Wow Jeff.... your answer is incredible, but full of help..! I'm gona need to reread it several times, and then take notes. (Step-1 Step-2 etc) I've never really
used Field-1 mode, except once or twice.

For my situation, you seem 100% positive Field-1 is best, with some modifications to settings. I would have never thought Field-1 for this. But you
made a VERY convincing argument.

Hummm.. I need to play with this first. I'm not sure I like your suggestion about rejecting Nickels, Gold coins, and Pennies. I would hate to
miss a $5.00 gold piece with a target ID of 19. But your suggestion does have Merritt. Hummmm.. more thinking to do.

Since I can detect the military fort anytime,... and in light of your extensive answer,... I'm going to delay this hunt for a week or so, and detect it
when I'm confident I'll get good results. Can I get your E-Mail address, and ask questions..? My E-mail is fastdraw@att.net

Thanks
Marc / Fastdraw
 
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Hi,
Park 1 and Park 2 according to the manual are for more modern aluminum trash. Field 1 and 2 are for hunting areas with more iron trash and also coke and burned coal cinders which is why +1 and +2 are rejected by default. Field 1 is set up for all types of older coins (not clad alloys) that are not super deep. Field 2 is more sensitive to deeper and smaller targets and higher mineralization. (The same relationship exists for Park 1 and Park 2). So, as I said, if I was hunting a new site with lots of older surface/shallow trash I would forget about the really deep stuff and just go for the shallower coin, jewelry and relic targets by using Field 1. You could use any of the six modes, even Beach 1 or Beach 2. I have hunted fields in Beach 1 and I have gold prospected using Park 2..........

So, I would just go ahead and give it a try, why wait. You have nothing to lose and you will learn a lot including possibly that my ideas are bunk. No matter what, you are going to have to hunt this place in layers so you might as well go for it.

I recommended 2 tones to simplify things along with lowering the iron volume level since I don't know how much experience you have a with the Equinox 600.

You can always PM me.

thanks,

Jeff
 
Sitting on top of the dirt, as well as just barely below the dirt, are hundreds & hundreds of rusty tin cans. Hundreds of fired brass
cartridges cases, bent knives, forks, spoons, lots of tobacco tins, etc... etc... I have old pictures of the fort,.... but no structures exist
anymore.

Just saw this, in thw "Whats New section" and i have virtually experience with the Nox to give any settings advice, however as you describe trying to detect through hundreds and nundreds of shell casings and tin cans, this soumds scary.

The smaller coil will snake through much trash but the loss of depth could be crucial, unless you in a very arid climate. I agree with 52, and the only way to hit this is after a clean up. Take a garden rake after a good rain or take a potato fork in with you to turn over groumd.
 
Need the advice of all you experienced detectors. I have the opportunity to detect an old historic military fort, (1861 to 1870) that is
on private property. It's never been detected before, as best as the owner knows, and I think he's right. About 5 original acres remain
of the old fort sight. BUT..... a just looked at it today, and I'm worried and baffled on how to do this...? Help Help..!

Sitting on top of the dirt, as well as just barely below the dirt, are hundreds & hundreds of rusty tin cans. Hundreds of fired brass
cartridges cases, bent knives, forks, spoons, lots of tobacco tins, etc... etc... I have old pictures of the fort,.... but no structures exist
anymore.

What do I set my Nox-600 so I only find coins..?

I need your advice and things to NOT do so I don't dig every 3-feet. It's almost overwhelming...! What recommended
settings would you set my Nox-600 on. Both Park-1 & Park-2


First thing I would do is take a rake and clear areas big enough to spend a few hours hunting, removing them would be the best move if you have the time. If you don't have one, get a 6" coil, there's going to be all sort ofs crap hiding beneath the surface. If it was me, I'd run Park 1 and recovery set at 6. The amount of trash will dictate how much sensitivity you can run. Notch all numbers except coin numbers, but, your going to miss some neat relics by only coin hunting. I'd be running from +10 up and dig it all. If it's never been hunted then that place is going to be loaded with all kinds of relics.
If your don't want to dig that much stuff, then you gonna have to disc out all the non coins numbers. Your going to miss a ton of stuff by only going for coins. I would love to have your problem :)
 
To echo others...if you think the return is worth the physical effort, getting the bigger trash out of the way with a rake and a rolling magnet would go a long way in my mind...and hunting it intermittently in conjunction with hunting other parts of the property will keep you interested without getting burned out. You could clean up that whole mess and never find a damn thing worth keeping. It’s all about weighing risk and reward...and how much “risk” you can afford.
 
Hi,
Park 1 and Park 2 according to the manual are for more modern aluminum trash. Field 1 and 2 are for hunting areas with more iron trash and also coke and burned coal cinders which is why +1 and +2 are rejected by default. Field 1 is set up for all types of older coins (not clad alloys) that are not super deep. Field 2 is more sensitive to deeper and smaller targets and higher mineralization. (The same relationship exists for Park 1 and Park 2). So, as I said, if I was hunting a new site with lots of older surface/shallow trash I would forget about the really deep stuff and just go for the shallower coin, jewelry and relic targets by using Field 1. You could use any of the six modes, even Beach 1 or Beach 2. I have hunted fields in Beach 1 and I have gold prospected using Park 2..........

So, I would just go ahead and give it a try, why wait. You have nothing to lose and you will learn a lot including possibly that my ideas are bunk. No matter what, you are going to have to hunt this place in layers so you might as well go for it.

I recommended 2 tones to simplify things along with lowering the iron volume level since I don't know how much experience you have a with the Equinox 600.

You can always PM me.

thanks,

Jeff
Understood
 
So, sounds like we are all on the same page here. Fastdraw is in Nevada near Carson City so he will have a little mineralization to deal with. Also, he has a Nox 600 so just keep recovery on 3 (which is 6 on the 800).

Jeff
 
To echo others...if you think the return is worth the physical effort, getting the bigger trash out of the way with a rake and a rolling magnet would go a long way in my mind...and hunting it intermittently in conjunction with hunting other parts of the property will keep you interested without getting burned out. You could clean up that whole mess and never find a damn thing worth keeping. It’s all about weighing risk and reward...and how much “risk” you can afford.
As much as I respect & appreciate the advice from others... (Seriously) I think you kinda spoke the truth....! Love it...!
 
As I mentioned in my earlier reply, use the smallest coils you have, the best settings, working slowly and methodically and overlap an ample amount. You might want to search a dedicated area first to find what you can, and also determine just how littered the area is. If you then determine the ferrous debris is dense enough to cause too much small-target masking, then clan a gridded area off to remove as much iron as possible, then re-hunt the site. Just a couple reminders or suggestions:

► If you are raking and removing ferrous debris, by hand or especially if using magnets, by putting the material in a bucket for removal, be sure to eyeball the material you've gathered up for any good-target that might be in-thee-mix. Button-backs made of iron, and other ferrous 'keepers' that might cling to a magnet.

► If the plan is to simply rake all the surface and shallow sub-surface trash off to the side of a gridded area, you ought to first make sure that area where you'll move all th unwanted debris is already clean and free of any non-ferrous desirable targets. On two occasions in my all-time favorite ghost town I have gone in to find were people had raked an area free of debris and made good finds. At one they just picked a spot that was in the old business area and raked weeds, woody remains of old sagebrush, nails, and other metal scrap off to the sides of an area about 6 foot by 12 foot. I stepped into that grid and hunted it, finding just a couple of small rivets and small, iron the missed. Then, I used my small rake and worked my way around the perimeter, moving all the raked-up material back into that cleaned-off gridded space. After relocating about 3' to 4' of material I would search the surrounding are where they had piled up the raked stuff. I found a nice condition 'V' Nickel and 'Shield' Nickel just barely out-of-site under the piles.

► At another spot he knew I had found a choice, 2nd known Trade Token at about 3" deep and went in and cleared off about a 6'X6' area between two big sage bushes by deep-raking off about 2" o 3" of debris and desert dirt. I hunted that cleaned area and found nothing. I showed up about 4 days later and saw the mess he made. The cleaned square was free of any metal, first checking it in the All Metal mode. I carefully raked in the surrounding material a little at a time, maybe 1"-1½" or so, and detecting the shallow material as I went. I found about ¾ of an eaten-up aluminum token like the minty condition one I found before, a beautiful brass Token from Battle Mountain Nevada I sold to a token collector for as very decent amount, as well as one silver 1898 Barber 10¢. So, easy does it on the raking and soil removal.

Monte


PS: I'm getting older than I wish I was and the youngest of my six kids is now 38½, but when I was younger, and the kids were kids, I used to encourage their help in raking up or just picking up whatever trash they could find in an area to fill some 5 gal buckets. They could help my detecting and for their help we'd have a pizza party or I'd take them somewhere special after we got back home. I don't know your age or if you have kids or grandkids who might enjoy being 'helpers' but it's a thought. Allowed time together and me more detecting time.
 
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