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I am a traitor
- Thread starter digitrich
- Start date
Mick in Dubbo
New member
How about high resolution ground imaging so that we can 'see' what the target is!
Actually, it's not the Accuracy that I'm concerned with, it's the information that you can gather out of the pinpoint that interests me most. Unfortunately, from what I've seen so far, the information from the VDI will give some information, both from the meter reading, how the numbers bounce, and how the depth readings behave, but it is still the ears that give the final decisive detail. The Signagraph is the only significant visual discrimination tool that I don't know much about. I have some slim hope that it may be able to cast some target fingerprint that is specific enough to be useful at separating to coins and caps apart, but I think that it may be too much of an expectation, given the nature of screw caps.
I've got a day off work today,and was hoping to go for a hunt, but while watching a DVD on the MXT last night, I had a delightful young chap decide that I could spend my day another way. I'm currently waiting for the glazier to show up, to replace the lounge room window that he smashed with a rock, while I was in there. Sometimes I feel like doing a bit of detector remodelling (around his head would be nice).
Mick Evans.
Actually, it's not the Accuracy that I'm concerned with, it's the information that you can gather out of the pinpoint that interests me most. Unfortunately, from what I've seen so far, the information from the VDI will give some information, both from the meter reading, how the numbers bounce, and how the depth readings behave, but it is still the ears that give the final decisive detail. The Signagraph is the only significant visual discrimination tool that I don't know much about. I have some slim hope that it may be able to cast some target fingerprint that is specific enough to be useful at separating to coins and caps apart, but I think that it may be too much of an expectation, given the nature of screw caps.
I've got a day off work today,and was hoping to go for a hunt, but while watching a DVD on the MXT last night, I had a delightful young chap decide that I could spend my day another way. I'm currently waiting for the glazier to show up, to replace the lounge room window that he smashed with a rock, while I was in there. Sometimes I feel like doing a bit of detector remodelling (around his head would be nice).
Mick Evans.
Hard Nosed Dave
New member
The DFX's Signagraph COULD possibly be a reliable way to tell if the target is a Au $1or $2 coin over aluminium bottle caps.
BUT(and this COULD be due to the settings on my DFX), I found that the target ID is inaccurate and will vary with:
1: It's depth
2: the soil conditions around it.
So using signagraph for ME, I have NOT found the DFX to be THAT accurate when trying to determine what you are about to dig is when it comes to the Au$1and $2 coins. This detector DOES find stuff. To me it lacks or maybe I am lacking in using it....I'm not entirely sure. It's close to but only to about 70% for the Aussie $1 and $2's .
It's good enough to say that a majority of bottle caps can be determined over the Au $1 and $2 dollar coins BUT by no means ALL Aluminum bottle caps or aluminum contorted or melted to a similar mass of a bottle cap.
The default on board PRESET programs for coins on the DFX, actually excludes the Au$2 coins .
Easy enough to learn it. The DFX is also programmable. Similar to how Explorer does it. I really like the DFX and just wish I could tame it to my liking.
I could be nearly there.
Other detectors that have the ability to maintain more accurate digital id on the Au $1 and $2 coins, seems to be achieved with the MXT (used Raoul) and from all accounts the Xterra(used by pinpointa-Ray).
Personally, I have found the Explorer does this id'ing of the Au$1&$2 Au very well on the EX XS, EX 2 and EX SE. Must the the nature of the alloy used to make these "gold nuggets". This may also be because I am more familiar with the Explorers settings. Maybe try this( If you haven't already):
With a newly switched on to system defaults Explorer either with coil in air or a clean patch of ground( kept still) or better still done with the x-1 probe held perfectly still while NOISE CANCEL is occurring (make sure the x-1 is not near any metal objects):
If you LEARN the Explorer to accept(tick) only AU $1 and $2 in a BLACKENED screen discrimination pattern using the SMALLEST CURSER by firstly doing a:
NOISE CANCEL........
with the Explorer in:
1: IN SEMI-AUTO
2: OPTIONS ADVANCED RESPONSE NORMAL
3: OPTIONS ADVANCED [RECOVER FAST
4: SENSITIVITY 1
5: SOUNDS CONDUCT.
NOISE CANCEL.....AGAIN
Using the stock Explorer coil, re adjust the SEMI- AUTO to MANUAL(NOT TO HIGH) and INCREASE the SENSITIVITY UP to suit.
I found that with the SOUNDS CONDUCT that the Au $1 and $2 dollar coins have a higher pitch than MOST aluminium bottle caps though the curser seems to be in the same location as the Aluminum bottle caps.
Also try the AU $1 and $2 dollar coin together.(Not an unusual combo)
Try other Aussie coins near or put together with each other.
See what they read and sound like.
You may wish to include these others coins individually or in combo's in a search pattern.
Unfortunately, this pattern may mean including some areas where some bottle caps come in.
That's where I have found that TONE ID'ing of the Explorer can help to determine when and when not to dig.
Ah yes, it's all such good fun.
When searching for the most currency I always expect to encounter bottle caps BUT I also leave a lot and I'm pretty confident that is ALL I have left behind....
shrug:
I don't bother checking on lawns or grass BUT I do always check at the beach because I usually run a wide open all metal pattern(IRON MASK).
After doing this a while you can tell the difference MOST of the time and you can relay on what you hear and then see.
Let me know how you get on.
Wish me luck , I hope to be in possession of THE new 11" Explorer coil tomorrow.
While wright this , I have realized that maybe if I reduced the DFX's AC SENSITIVITY and PREAMP GAIN, I might be able to create a tighter target while trying to LEARN a target. I'll give it a try and see how it does.
I promise that if the DFX ever give me what I want it to I will report it honestly and accurately. NO BS.
Take care.
David Di
BUT(and this COULD be due to the settings on my DFX), I found that the target ID is inaccurate and will vary with:
1: It's depth
2: the soil conditions around it.
So using signagraph for ME, I have NOT found the DFX to be THAT accurate when trying to determine what you are about to dig is when it comes to the Au$1and $2 coins. This detector DOES find stuff. To me it lacks or maybe I am lacking in using it....I'm not entirely sure. It's close to but only to about 70% for the Aussie $1 and $2's .
It's good enough to say that a majority of bottle caps can be determined over the Au $1 and $2 dollar coins BUT by no means ALL Aluminum bottle caps or aluminum contorted or melted to a similar mass of a bottle cap.
The default on board PRESET programs for coins on the DFX, actually excludes the Au$2 coins .
Easy enough to learn it. The DFX is also programmable. Similar to how Explorer does it. I really like the DFX and just wish I could tame it to my liking.
I could be nearly there.
Other detectors that have the ability to maintain more accurate digital id on the Au $1 and $2 coins, seems to be achieved with the MXT (used Raoul) and from all accounts the Xterra(used by pinpointa-Ray).
Personally, I have found the Explorer does this id'ing of the Au$1&$2 Au very well on the EX XS, EX 2 and EX SE. Must the the nature of the alloy used to make these "gold nuggets". This may also be because I am more familiar with the Explorers settings. Maybe try this( If you haven't already):
With a newly switched on to system defaults Explorer either with coil in air or a clean patch of ground( kept still) or better still done with the x-1 probe held perfectly still while NOISE CANCEL is occurring (make sure the x-1 is not near any metal objects):
If you LEARN the Explorer to accept(tick) only AU $1 and $2 in a BLACKENED screen discrimination pattern using the SMALLEST CURSER by firstly doing a:
NOISE CANCEL........
with the Explorer in:
1: IN SEMI-AUTO
2: OPTIONS ADVANCED RESPONSE NORMAL
3: OPTIONS ADVANCED [RECOVER FAST
4: SENSITIVITY 1
5: SOUNDS CONDUCT.
NOISE CANCEL.....AGAIN
Using the stock Explorer coil, re adjust the SEMI- AUTO to MANUAL(NOT TO HIGH) and INCREASE the SENSITIVITY UP to suit.
I found that with the SOUNDS CONDUCT that the Au $1 and $2 dollar coins have a higher pitch than MOST aluminium bottle caps though the curser seems to be in the same location as the Aluminum bottle caps.
Also try the AU $1 and $2 dollar coin together.(Not an unusual combo)
Try other Aussie coins near or put together with each other.
See what they read and sound like.
You may wish to include these others coins individually or in combo's in a search pattern.
Unfortunately, this pattern may mean including some areas where some bottle caps come in.
That's where I have found that TONE ID'ing of the Explorer can help to determine when and when not to dig.
Ah yes, it's all such good fun.
When searching for the most currency I always expect to encounter bottle caps BUT I also leave a lot and I'm pretty confident that is ALL I have left behind....
shrug: I don't bother checking on lawns or grass BUT I do always check at the beach because I usually run a wide open all metal pattern(IRON MASK).
After doing this a while you can tell the difference MOST of the time and you can relay on what you hear and then see.
Let me know how you get on.
Wish me luck , I hope to be in possession of THE new 11" Explorer coil tomorrow.
While wright this , I have realized that maybe if I reduced the DFX's AC SENSITIVITY and PREAMP GAIN, I might be able to create a tighter target while trying to LEARN a target. I'll give it a try and see how it does.
I promise that if the DFX ever give me what I want it to I will report it honestly and accurately. NO BS.
Take care.
David Di
Mick in Dubbo
New member
I've printed it off so that I can reread over it a couple of times to absorb, then try the set up on the detector.
Thanks heaps for such a candid and detailed response. I'll post how it turns out. I'll be one very happy camper if I can emulate your result.
Good luck with the new coil tomorrow.
Mick Evans.
Thanks heaps for such a candid and detailed response. I'll post how it turns out. I'll be one very happy camper if I can emulate your result.
Good luck with the new coil tomorrow.
Mick Evans.
Larry (IL)
Well-known member
He would be doing real good in only a year Bob. It's been almost 8 years for me and there are some things I haven't even messed with yet, let alone understand.
David, I appreciate, and take aboard what you are suggesting...
I've done the learn routine for our goldies, and done a "goldie pattern."
But I think I used the medium cursor...
I got myself mentally tired grappling with the issue, and given the issue a miss of late !
Things can get pretty quiet running such an exclusive detecting pattern !
What I have been doing lately is digging all goldie zone targets, I intend compiling a collection of screw caps
in various stages; and try to get a more complete picture of screw cap "finger prints."
Hey, do you guys Stateside have similar problems with any of your desirable coins conflicting with screw cap readings ?
I've done the learn routine for our goldies, and done a "goldie pattern."
But I think I used the medium cursor...
I got myself mentally tired grappling with the issue, and given the issue a miss of late !
Things can get pretty quiet running such an exclusive detecting pattern !
What I have been doing lately is digging all goldie zone targets, I intend compiling a collection of screw caps
in various stages; and try to get a more complete picture of screw cap "finger prints."
Hey, do you guys Stateside have similar problems with any of your desirable coins conflicting with screw cap readings ?
Hard Nosed Dave
New member
Hi Snowy, on certain sites, I like to simply "cherry pick" the Au $1 and $2 coins. So a pattern, let alone a tight one, only ever gets used on certain sites and especially when I am simply out there for modern currency.
Never used to be like that BUT you can
Never used to be like that BUT you can
Mick in Dubbo
New member
G'day Dave.
I messed around for a while with the settings tonight. I was particularly looking at the tones, but so far no luck on finding the coins giving a higher tone than the caps. I initially dismissed the idea of having a tight pattern of accepted targets, as I felt that target masking can become an issue when there is so much discrimination going on, but like you said, it has it's place.
Something that I stumbled onto which may be of interest, is the audio 1 feature in Response. This seems to be a very useful mode, if you want to hear the differences of a target. I played with it outside for a bit tonight with $1 and $2 coins plus about 10 screw caps in various conditions. I found that if you move the coil slowly over the target, the coins gave a nice smooth tone and ALL the screw caps tones had licks in them! the only 2 exceptions were, a small undamaged screw cap, when it was right way up, still sounded like a coin, but as soon as it was up side down, you could very clearly hear the sides of it. The other was a $2 coin. If you swung the coil too fast, it sounded like a screw cap. I was very impressed. it would get interesting in a real hunt though, as targets are not isolated, but according to the manual, that is why it is there for anyway.
I hear your frustration at trying to work these targets out Snowy. Sometimes, rather than trying too hard, it's best just to dig the target and move on, as you often put at the bottom of your posts.
From what I have gathered on some of the other forums, the guys in the US, only have zinc, Indian and Memorial cents in this range, but have got to put up with Coke cans around their 10c and quarter range.
I don't have a great deal of time up on the XS as yet, but will be looking forward to doing so. As I like to play around the what I can get out of a detector, I think that it's going to be fun with the Explorer. The last 24 hours has opened my eyes to more of it's possibilities, so that has been terrific.
Thanks to the both of you for your time and input.
Mick Evans.
I messed around for a while with the settings tonight. I was particularly looking at the tones, but so far no luck on finding the coins giving a higher tone than the caps. I initially dismissed the idea of having a tight pattern of accepted targets, as I felt that target masking can become an issue when there is so much discrimination going on, but like you said, it has it's place.
Something that I stumbled onto which may be of interest, is the audio 1 feature in Response. This seems to be a very useful mode, if you want to hear the differences of a target. I played with it outside for a bit tonight with $1 and $2 coins plus about 10 screw caps in various conditions. I found that if you move the coil slowly over the target, the coins gave a nice smooth tone and ALL the screw caps tones had licks in them! the only 2 exceptions were, a small undamaged screw cap, when it was right way up, still sounded like a coin, but as soon as it was up side down, you could very clearly hear the sides of it. The other was a $2 coin. If you swung the coil too fast, it sounded like a screw cap. I was very impressed. it would get interesting in a real hunt though, as targets are not isolated, but according to the manual, that is why it is there for anyway.
I hear your frustration at trying to work these targets out Snowy. Sometimes, rather than trying too hard, it's best just to dig the target and move on, as you often put at the bottom of your posts.
From what I have gathered on some of the other forums, the guys in the US, only have zinc, Indian and Memorial cents in this range, but have got to put up with Coke cans around their 10c and quarter range.
I don't have a great deal of time up on the XS as yet, but will be looking forward to doing so. As I like to play around the what I can get out of a detector, I think that it's going to be fun with the Explorer. The last 24 hours has opened my eyes to more of it's possibilities, so that has been terrific.
Thanks to the both of you for your time and input.
Mick Evans.
...screwcaps in that area often come in at 7-25 if they're a solid hit, while zinc pennies are usually 7-24 (if they're not eaten much, then they start moving, particularly dropping on the ferrous scale. (Gets me excited sometimes when I get a good tone with an eaten one and I wonder what new and unusual thing I might dig up and then it turns into one of those **** zincs.) For me, screwcaps usually come in pretty broken but they can fool me pretty good at times when they're deep. I usually end up digging 'em anyhow but luckily they don't seem as common as the ubiquitous pulltab. I don't seem to confuse copper Memorials (or wheats) with screwcaps. I've only found 5-6 Indianheads but can't remember confusing them with bottlecaps, even the couple of shallow ones I've dug. The only reading I can remember for an Indian was 7-23, I think, but they usually sound better than screwcaps.
HEY DIGITRICH----I've got a copy of Jeff Foster's book "Digging Deeper With The DFX". If you want it--P.M. me and let me know where to send it and you can just have it. How's that for a good price? Another good little book on the DFX is one by John A. Harris---"DFX Spectrum & XLT Best Custom Programs". If you want some real depth out of that thing (DFX)---stick that Super 12" on it (under the right hunting conditions, of course). I better shut up--I'm sounding like a Whites salesman. Let me know if you want the book. Later, Del
Hey brother, thank you kindly for the offer, however I already have a copy
Haven't been able to even stick batteries in this thing yet, never mind swing it, I'm a waterproofer, and Iowa is having a flood worse than the flood of 93. I feel like taffy being pulled on a rack, had to take an oxycotton, just to get out of bed this morning. They were left over from my wisdom teeth being pulled. Man, I am working myself sick, literally. It's getting about time to turn off the cell phone and just do something easy......that I WANT to do. Problem is, if a take a minute to relax, when I get back to it, I'm now twice as far behind then I was and now it's five times more stressful. So much for relaxation. Maybe I should just go get hammered.
Heck, I don't even drink, but I am beginning to want to. Sorry for the whining, thanks again. I am sure I will be seeking your advice soon if I can ever get to play with this DFX.
Haven't been able to even stick batteries in this thing yet, never mind swing it, I'm a waterproofer, and Iowa is having a flood worse than the flood of 93. I feel like taffy being pulled on a rack, had to take an oxycotton, just to get out of bed this morning. They were left over from my wisdom teeth being pulled. Man, I am working myself sick, literally. It's getting about time to turn off the cell phone and just do something easy......that I WANT to do. Problem is, if a take a minute to relax, when I get back to it, I'm now twice as far behind then I was and now it's five times more stressful. So much for relaxation. Maybe I should just go get hammered. Heck, I don't even drink, but I am beginning to want to. Sorry for the whining, thanks again. I am sure I will be seeking your advice soon if I can ever get to play with this DFX.Tony in SC
New member
I have used the DFX since they came out. I have spent the last year with the SE. I have found some deep coins with the SE. But, my gold trinket count has really dropped. With the DFX my wife and I were usually neck and neck on rings(she uses an M6) So far this year the SE is 7 rings behind not counting the little charms and dodads. Tony