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I have a Fisher Coin$trike. How does it compare to a CZ3d?

Tony N (Michigan)

Active member
I have a Coin$tike that I have hardly ever used. I probably hardly ever used it because I didn't really take the time to learn all of its functions.

On a scale of 1 to 100 where the CZ3d would rate 100, about where would the C$ rate between 1 and 100 in relation to the 3d as far as depth of detection goes?
I only have the coil that came with it.

Also, it is okay to turn it on and mess with the settings without having a coil hooked up to it so it's not chattering in the house?
 
Tony,
Even though they both say 'Fisher', they're so different they may as well be from different companies.

The C$ is primarily designed to do well in somewhat bad ground, and in such actually goes quite deep...in bad ground. (Think Eastern Europe.)
But the comparison would be different in mild/fair soil, where a good CZ usually goes deeper.

The CZ is much easier to use and understand 'right out of the box'.
The C$ operates in a somewhat 'non-standard' fashion, and takes some time to become familiar with these differences.

I've got both...actually a couple of each...and the C$ is perhaps best described as an 'acquired taste'.
Most people that try a CZ immediately like it to some degree (many fall in love with one, of course)...the C$ is more polarizing...you either love it or hate it.

Because they're such different detectors, I'll not part with either. (especially that CZ-3d)
:)
mike

BTW, --->The C$ has a protection circuit to prevent you from turning it on without a coil...so...no, you won't be able to turn it on and test it without one. :(
 
Thanks Mike.
So, in mild soil, such as found in Michigan, would you say the CZ would hit a Lincoln at 10 inches but the C$ might only hit it at 7 inches?

The reason I ask is, I have a Lincoln penny I recently buried a couple weeks ago. I have quite a lot of different detectors and every one of them have a
very difficult time giving a beep on that coin. Some don't beep at all.
 
Tony,
That might not be too far off...

I've got a choice 3d that will hit a (older bury) 12" dime in good, clean ground, but the C$ is limited to about 9 (ish) inches.

And to be fair, a (relatively) fresh buried dime or penny at 10" is a tough target for a lot of detectors.
It will be a better/easier target in a year or two.

HH,
mike
 
Gee had an early coinstrike and first time out got a seated dime and and barber quarter easily in the 10-12 inch range but sold it quickly as it called every round piece of metal a coin which drove me crazy digging junk especially rusty beer caps...So personally feel it was as deep as a CZ at least in my ground which is moderate...
On the other side CZ was user friendly and coinstrike had a learning period..Even the Fisher so called experts didn't have any idea how to solve the coinstrikes problem including their poster boy at the time Bill Ladd. If coinstrike didn't have the problem CZ-coinstrike would be my 1-2 combo....
 
Dan-Pa. said:
Gee had an early coinstrike and first time out got a seated dime and and barber quarter easily in the 10-12 inch range but sold it quickly as it called every round piece of metal a coin which drove me crazy digging junk especially rusty beer caps...So personally feel it was as deep as a CZ at least in my ground which is moderate...
On the other side CZ was user friendly and coinstrike had a learning period..Even the Fisher so called experts didn't have any idea how to solve the coinstrikes problem including their poster boy at the time Bill Ladd. If coinstrike didn't have the problem CZ-coinstrike would be my 1-2 combo....
My Coin$trike is an early model.
Do you know some settings to set it up for coin hunting?
On a YouTube video, a guy was using the CZ 3d in a park and digging up screw caps. I'm sure though if one plays by the odds, you will get a nice silver.
 
trojdor said:
Tony,
That might not be too far off...

I've got a choice 3d that will hit a (older bury) 12" dime in good, clean ground, but the C$ is limited to about 9 (ish) inches.

And to be fair, a (relatively) fresh buried dime or penny at 10" is a tough target for a lot of detectors.
It will be a better/easier target in a year or two.

HH,
mike

Thanks for the info, Mike.
I do know Minelabs don't like freshly disturbed soil.
I wonder if the F70 and F75 would do just as well or even better at hitting that 12" dime?
 
Quote "I'm sure though if one plays by the odds, you will get a nice silver. " Good luck as most of my areas are loaded with rusty beer caps...Indeed if you have areas that are not especially real old areas surely doable..As far as settings its been a long time and coinstrike is a different animal so don't remember settings and such.
Was not popular because of this problem and at one time couldn't give one away not alone sell used...
Remember I felt well learned was a good unit but had a problem no one could solve and am sure did well in some areas...not littered with round rusty objects...
 
I can usually tell a screwcap as it covers more area....However there are regular whole screwcaps, bent ones, crushed ones so not an exact science...Also screwcaps are one thing and rusty round beercaps another...In addendum must have been a lot of beer bottle type drinkers in years gone by...
 
Dan-Pa. said:
Quote "I'm sure though if one plays by the odds, you will get a nice silver. " Good luck as most of my areas are loaded with rusty beer caps...Indeed if you have areas that are not especially real old areas surely doable..As far as settings its been a long time and coinstrike is a different animal so don't remember settings and such.
Was not popular because of this problem and at one time couldn't give one away not alone sell used...
Remember I felt well learned was a good unit but had a problem no one could solve and am sure did well in some areas...not littered with round rusty objects...

Wouldn't the rusty bottle caps give any kind of a scratchy sound like the Tesoro's? I get fooled even by my Minelab on some rusty bottle caps and some screw caps.
 
Dan-Pa. said:
I can usually tell a screwcap as it covers more area....However there are regular whole screwcaps, bent ones, crushed ones so not an exact science...Also screwcaps are one thing and rusty round beercaps another...In addendum must have been a lot of beer bottle type drinkers in years gone by...

There's a park not too far from me I call beer cap hell. Many thousands of them litter the picnic areas. It is hard to sweep the coil in any direction without being overwhelmed by them. If they ever make a detector that completely ignores those and sees past them, you'd have one heck of a detector.
 
Dan-Pa. said:
Quote "I'm sure though if one plays by the odds, you will get a nice silver. " Good luck as most of my areas are loaded with rusty beer caps...Indeed if you have areas that are not especially real old areas surely doable..As far as settings its been a long time and coinstrike is a different animal so don't remember settings and such.
Was not popular because of this problem and at one time couldn't give one away not alone sell used...
Remember I felt well learned was a good unit but had a problem no one could solve and am sure did well in some areas...not littered with round rusty objects...

Is the CZ3d better with rusty beer caps?
Which Fisher machine would you say is the absolutely, without any doubt, the best detector for dealing with rusty bottle caps?
 
All CZs are Good at dealing with 'Steel' Bottle Caps.
That and the Etrac are two best I used at ingnoring Steel caps.
 
can fall into good i.d, but why? Ground mineral, amount of moisture, how much rust/corrosion, angle & depth are something to consider. What you look for is inconsistency
in a target-if numbers jump it might be a clue. Also scan the target by pushing forward and pulling back in and up down scan--along with the normal side by side.
With the ground where I live I do not see bottlecaps/washers as a C$ problem. The C$ is better in iron, but also must be moved faster to get the correct performance. If you use it as slow
as a CZ it degrades performance. Biggest problem with a CZ is some rusty nails that are somewhat perpendicular coming in falsely as a hi coin-and its even worse if you run
audio disc. The good thing is that when you pin point it usually is a different place than in disc.
I know Wild Bill well, and you might contact him for pointers with the C$; also try Mr.Bill here on Finds-he is an expert .
 
(or soft drink bottles?) I thought they grew on trees and fell off. :lol:

:drinking: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/62/02/7e/62027ebbf66627cdc6743a77cd162f7d--bottle-cap-art-bottle-cap-crafts.jpg :drinking: :drinking:
 
Whites TDI can be tuned (by adjusting the GB setting) to totally ignore them and still hit coins.
 
If your saying a CZ has problem also...sure does like rusty deep nails, however once you dig a plug the pinpoint moves to the side and I move on..
Coinstrikes problem to my knowledge has no answer, even the best in business had no answer except don't hunt in areas with rusty round steel caps and again imagine it would excel in such an area...
 
Dan-Pa. said:
Even the Fisher so called experts didn't have any idea how to solve the coinstrikes problem including their poster boy at the time Bill Ladd.

I seem to recall that Bill loved the C$ back in the day....he was friends with the designer who outfitted his with a trigger, and always preached the 525 setting to start off with.

I wouldn't mind picking up another C$ one of these days....
 
Funny that you asked this question because I had my coin$ out today and it goes every bit as deep as the CZ models I have used and I've used every model but the CZ6. The coin$ gives alot more info to decide if you want to dig a target. I found a 1965 dime 10" and a brass shell casing that's rimfire at 10-11" and the coin$ love them rusty bottle caps.
 
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