I need some advice on my meter readings

[Horsecreeker]

Just got back from my 3rd trip out with my new XLPRO and I ran into a problem I sure could use some help with. I was hunting a very old houseplace. On 3 occasions, my meter would swing over to the far right and stay there. No audio accompanied the swing. I lifted the detector up in the air, squeezed the trigger which reset the meter and scanned the area again, no repeat of the meter swing. I tried adjusting the signal balance, reset the ground balance to see if it would make a difference and it would work fine until, bingo, it did it again. ???? What am I running into that causes this? Thanks a bunch for the forum, I really enjoy the tips. Horsecreeker from Southern Illinois

 

[poptop]

Hey Horsecreeker, Glad you joined us! There is nothing wrong with your machine. That is a very common occurance....If it doesn't do that, then somethings wrong. What that means is that you just went over a large piece of shallow metal, a hot rock or a highly mineralized area that over loaded the circuitry. Usually if you try to pinpoint this spot...it will not pinpoint unless it is a large metal object. Just do as you did...reset the machine and go on with your hunt.

 

[Horsecreeker]

Thanks Poptop, once the meter swung to the left and stayed there. Is this also overload? Well, anyway, I found a little swiss knife about 4" deep in an area that hardly anyone ever goes. Wonder how it got there, I know the knife is not nearly as old as the homeplace since it is stainless steel and in near perfect condition. Again Thanks a bunch I am really enjoying my xlpro. Horsecreeker

 

[poptop]

Horsecreeker, I could be wrong, but this is my understanding of it. The discrimination circuits are design to respond to ferrous and non ferrous metals differently in order to discriminate. Logical...right. Your detectors meter is tuned and designed around coin sized objects when in the GEB discriminate mode. If you were to find a silver dollar shallow, then you meter should peg far right to dollar because that's the largest American coin that you should encounter...right? Now, in the real world, targets come in all sizes but meters don't. Anything much larger than a U.S. dollar is going to peg the meter past it's range unless that target is very, very deep. Now, if nonferrous metals read to the right or + side of the meter, then the only way to discriminate is to have ferrous targets or - go to the left side of the meter. So, now you can see that a large - ferrous or rejected metal can peg the meter to the far left side. In short, what I'm saying is positive response to the right, negative response to the left and if the meter had to accommodate all sizes of targets that might be in the ground....it would need to be four feet wide, unless you found a 1960 Cadillac at six inches...then a ten foot wide meter might be necessary to prevent positive or negative overload. I hope I'm right and hope this helps!

 

[Kelley (Texas)]

it does not rest at "zero" when the detector is not turned on? If so, would you turn the screw at the bottom of the face of the meter? Or should you just leave it alone? My meter appears to be reading on the low end of the designated meter reading. Kelley (Texas)

 

[Monte]

clear plastic display cover. I like to do it with the detector turned on, but not a lot of sensitivity (Signal Balance) and away from metal targets.

Set the coil on the ground and pull and release the trigger to reset the unit. Then, if necessary you can adjust the screw until the needle rests on the '0' mark.

Monte

 

[Kelley (Texas)]

my XL Pro was reading on the low side of all the coin targets. For example, a quarter read dead center of "Quarter" on the 6000 Di Pro SL but read on the low end of "quarter" on the XL Pro. Same results with a dime and nickel. I suspect that I should forget about resetting to zero and should advance it slightly to get the desired readings. The other solution is to just leave it alone and remember the number reading rather than depending on the needle to center on the coin name on the top scale. What is your opinion? Kelley (Texas)

 

[poptop]

Kelley, before doing anything, check for a static charge on the plastic case especially if you keep your detector in a case. Many times in the winter here the plastic meter housing will become statically charged and prevent the needle from going to zero. Sometimes you can test this by just moving your finger around on the plastic lens over the needle and watch it move around. Usually the static charge will dissipate on it's own and the needle will return to it's normal position. If this isn't the case, there is one screw in the lower face of the dial for calibration but I would see if the problem is consistent before I would touch anything. 9 out of 10 times, it's a static charge.

 

[Kelley (Texas)]

Before I attempt to calibrate the meter, I want to air test it at the kitchen table. Poptop, I have always used a non I.D. metered metal detector with the exception of a short period of time when I used a Fisher CZ-5 several years ago. I am now at the stage of being comfortable with the Pro XL, but I just want to fine tune the meter or learn where the various items read on the number scale. Thanks for the help. Kelley (Texas)

 

[Kelley (Texas)]

or static. When the detector was turned on, the needle did seem slightly erratic...very slight.

I air tested the Whites Di Pro SL and the meter read right dead center of the penny, nickel, dime, quarter, and half dollar on the upper I.D. scale. The XL Pro read low on a penny, dead center on the dime, low on the quarter, and would read "quarter" when I used the half dollar.

In the morning I will get some washing machine anti-static sheets and see if it is static causing this to behave this way. However, I suspect the meter may be defective because of the half dollar reading as a quarter. If it is defective, I would have to question the quality control at White's Electronics...do they not check the machines prior to shipping. Kelley (Texas)

 

[poptop]

Kelly was this a new machine when you bought it? Generally Whites quality control is among the best in the business and these analog machines are built like tanks and last forever. I got old and worn out before my machine did. As a matter of fact, the whole time I carried the whites line years ago...I never had a return on even one of the analog machines. I guess sooner or later...somethings gonna get past somebody, but it sure isn't common on these machines. Try that static stuff like you said and if that doesn't do something, give Whites a call at 888-645-0202 for the service center. I think they have a two year parts and labor warranty. Being ten points off at the quarter range is a little high for static unless it is really dry where you are. I once slid my machine sideways off of the bed spread and my needle went to about 12 and stayed there for over 12 hours before it started easing back down to normal. Once everything is right Kelley, this old meter machine is the most reliable thing I've ever owned. I have had several digital machines go bad over the years. My friends digital readout started dropping pixels last week and the repair bill was estimated at 180.00 not including shipping. If your meter turns out to be faulty, it can be bought for 31.75

 

[Kelley (Texas)]

I have used it twice, but did not concentrate on the meter at that time. I will try the static elimination tatic in the morning. Kelley (Texas)

 

[Digger]

By looking at the first four digits of the serial number, you can determine the manufactured date. For example, if it says 5123, that means it was built in 2005, on the 123rd day of that year. A new detector has a 2-year transferrable warranty, beginning the date you purchased it and the dealer registers the warranty. If you buy a used detector that has no record of the warranty being registered, (and no warranty paper to send in) Whites considers the two-year warranty to begin on the manufactured date.
Even though you bought yours new, don't be surprised if it was actually built 8 or 10 months ago. After being built, they are stored in Whites warehouse. When a distributor orders one, Whites sends it to the distributor via UPS. It may get loaded and unloaded onto 4 or 5 trucks before it finally arrives at the distributor. Then, the distributor stacks them in his warehouse. When a dealer requests one, it may get loaded and unloaded onto 3 or 4 more UPS trucks before it gets to the dealer. Then the dealer stacks them in his warehouse or shop until it sells. If you pick it up at the dealership, chances are it was handled a dozen times. And you have to realize that not everyone handles them as electronic instruments should be handled. If you bought it over the net, it was shipped to your home, once again being loaded and unloaded from several trucks. It is not hard to imagine that it may have been dropped once or twice since it was built. Whites boxes are sturdy. But I think their packing could be better.
Since yours is new, I doubt that it is static. That is easily determined by wiping a dryer sheet over the front of the screen. If you don't have a dryer sheet, use a soft cloth and see if the needle moves when you wipe across it. It more than likely needs to be recalibrated or rescaled. If the dryer sheet don't work, I suggest you call Whites and see how they want to handle it. You may be able to take it back to your dealer for recalibration, or they will let you try to recalibraate it yourself. Just make sure that your "working on it" yourself does not void the warranty. HH Randy

 

[Kelley (Texas)]

n/t

 

[Sonny(IN)]

you can get a bounce, like goes in a clothes dryer and wipe off the plastic face.. It will elimate the static from the meter face....have done this in the past and it works great...Sonny