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Iron and the CTX

foreign object

New member
I do fairly well most of the time avoiding iron and nails but still dig more than I like. Don't we all?

Anyway I had read here and else places where some guys set up and use their 2nd pattern to check a target. Digger made reference to this in another thread.

I run a wide open screen combined ferrous coin 90% of the time and my main focus is silver coins.
Question is what kind of disc.pattern in pattern 2 would help id some of the deep iron targets.

Really I am confused as to how a disc.pattern would be any more accurate than a wide open pattern but I am still learning.

Any input will be appreciated.

FO
 
Actually, I use three different "modes" to help identify those annoying nails and bits of iron. I set up in Ferrous Coin - Combined. I have one Pattern wide open and the other with a modified Coin pattern I built, based on US coins. It isn't anything special....I just scanned several hundred old coins under the coil, to make sure I wasn't missing anything I might find around here. (everything from nickels to silver 3-cent pieces to IH cents to silver dollars) I know some folks post that they've found coins with high ferrous numbers. But honestly, I can't remember digging any US coin with an FE reading more than 14. But, just in case I do come across one, or am unable to get a "clear" ID, my discrimination goes down to 16. Anyway, if I am in a park or yard, I'll hunt in the discrimination Pattern. If I am at an old farm site, I hunt in the open screen. I've pretty well explained my reasons in earlier threads. Regardless, if I get a hit that sounds good, I go back and forth across that target from a multitude of directions. Then I go back over the target using the other Pattern. By passing over the target in both Patterns, I am looking for consistency in sound, TID and location. If the audio breaks up from certain directions, I check the TID. A broken audio and fluctuating TID indicates a "non-coin" object. Typically, one with a high ferrous content. If that is the case in this target, I move on. However, if the sound is consistent, and the TID remains in the "keeper" zone, I check the target location. By location, I mean the exact spot where I could push a probe straight down and hit the coin. Then, after mentally marking that location with a leaf, clod or something in the grass, I go back over it in Pinpoint with Target Trace. What I have found is, when a deeply buried (rusty) nail is bent, it can sound like a coin from one or more directions in either Pattern. But when I go over it in PP, the location of a deeply buried nail will not be consistent with what I saw in the hunt Patterns. And, the "shape" of the target will not be symmetrical. By going over it in Pinpoint, and comparing the "location" with what I saw in Patterns 1 and 2, I can make a determination as to whether or not I want to dig it up. If they match up, I dig. If they don't, I keep walking.
Something interesting that I witnessed dozens and dozens of times before I started confirming location was, those darned nails were always "below and left" of where I thought the target should be. The easiest way for me to explain that is to compare the target location under the coil to the face of a clock. After Xing over the target, I was digging in the center of the coil, fully expecting to recover a coin. But over and over and over again, I would end up with a rusty bent nail at the edge of the hole in (what would be) the 7:30 or 8:00 position (if it were the clock face). Regardless of whether I initially found the target in Pattern one, and confirmed in Pattern 2, or vice-versa, I was still digging some nails. But when I started comparing the location of "exact target placement" by using both Patterns AND Pinpoint, my daily "collection" of bent, rusty nails has almost disappeared. Don't get me wrong. I still dig a few. But those few nails that I dig now are done so more to confirm what I expect, as to when I dug them expecting a coin.
Just something that works for me.
 
Appreciate the reply Randy.

Think I will try your 2nd pattern disc program out.

As far as the higher fe numbers I agree. The highest I have repeatlly gotton was a 17 and that was on a 7" silver dime that was laying up against a sidewalk that had rebar. It did bounce dow to 12/14 fe a couple times but really hung with 17.

I have had coins go higher on the fe and lower on the co on first passes in iron or junk but once located and a good tight wiggle would bring them mostly to the 12/40 whatever.


Once again thanks

Dwoght
 
Great post Randy.... Now if the stinking god d*#* snow would melt away and the ground would thaw, I would be out detecting with your observations in mind.
 
IF YOU SAVE THOSE IFFY ONES 4 LAST IT WILL GIVE YOU SOMETHING TO HUNT WEN YOU RUN OUT OF PLACES OR SIGNALS
I CHERRY PICK IF THERE IS A LOT OF TRASH (IRON INCLUDED) AND SAVE THE PULL TABS AND THE GOLD RINGS


MINELABBOB
 
Has anyone else tried using the ground coin setting in iron infested areas instead of ferrous coin? I have switched almost exclusively to ground coin for this situation, yes I lose the multiple cursors but I rarely dig any iron now and still pick coins out of the mess.
 
haven't really tried GC, but it's there so has to be for a reason :biggrin: more for mineralized ground?

if I think I have a coin open screen, then use the pinpoint button if it does not pinpoint where I should be it's pretty safe to say its iron where I am at, really don't have time to check in 3 patterns and do the rest of it, sure if I was in someones yard in a park pin point does not line up I keep walking, and maybe I miss a coin or 2 but dig bugga all iron :biggrin:

AJ
 
FERROUS COIN IN 1 MONEY AND TO CHECK 4 IRON HIGH TRASH IN THE OTHER IN TURF OR COMBINE
BUT YOU WILL GET FOOLED HERE AND THERE ON SMALL POINTED SCREWS AND BOLTS
I DO NT THINK YOU WILL EVER STOP DIGGING RUSTY PIECES I GUESS IT IS THE GAME WE PLAY

GOOD LUCK IF AN BODY FINDS A FOOLPROOF METHOD LET ME KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


MINELABBOB
 
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