Is there anything simple that I can check on my T2 to try and fix it?

[jbow]

Just before I went on vacation it died, just would not turn on one fine day. I switched the batteries from the F75 I had with me (I was at a friend's home testing some machines on a deep minnie he has had buried for 21 years). Anyway, I tried yesterday to remove the battery holder but the wires are so tight that I could just get it off the rod but thats all. I can't see anything that is obviously come loose. I would like to get the battery holder apart so I can see if a wire has come loose from the switch. I am betting some wire has come unslodered but I do not want to void my warranty. If there is a way to get it apart and take a looksee i'd like to do that but I don't know how.
Do you know anything else I can try. It is just completely dead, no LCD, no tone, no nothing.

Thanks,

J

 

[Ken in NC]

I am sure most would agree that if it is under warranty, why risk voiding the warranty

It is just a matter of calling for a RA number, and packing it up and sending it in

You do have other fine machines that you can use in the meantime

 

[dave5710]

About three years ago when the humidity got to mine, it would turn on, but I wasn't able to change the settings on it. I don't know if humidity would cause the problem you are having or not. You would be better off sending it in, and getting it fixed for the cost of shipping, rather than taking the chance of voiding the warranty. At least you have a good backup. JMO, Take care.

 

[Keith Southern]

amp and such...to get it apart take the phillip head screws out and then it pulls apart ..No need to take it off the pole..If I remember correctly the board is facing backwards and you have to undo the nut behind the volume knob and then the bard will come out...

I had the same problem one time....The power wires (2= + - ) that go to the mother board in the head unit were stuck into the holes on the audio amp board but were never soldered they were tinned and stuck through the holes sort of tight but not soldered...I used to wonder why the First T-2 I had would go on and off intermittently well that was why they would get into a certain position and would break contact..I soldered them up and was good to go....

Could be your problem??


Also if you sweat alot you could of corroded the board inside the audio box if your's lack's weather proofing?? Just a thought..


Keith

 

[jbow]

Well, i'm sure they will fix it but it is a really early model... don't imagine it is still under warranty officially. I haven't opened it yet. No harm in looking I think. It isn't abused at all. I got it in July 2006...

J

 

[jbow]

I can only find one phillips screw on the battery box and one ....

Oh... thanks, now I see the two other phillips screws. First I only saw the one inside the battery cover and the allen head that holds it to the shaft... i'll open 'er up now and take a look.

Thanks Keith!

J

 

[jbow]

I didn't bother to check to see if the pod board was getting power because since I didn't see anything loose or shorted (touching something it shouldn't) I saw no need to check to see if the pod is getting power because i'm not going fishing in there. I can resolder a loose wire or fix a short but when everything looks right... it's time for me to send it on down the road. I can't find a SN but the board had a small white sticker with the number 206 written on it with a ballpoint pen. I got this machine from FT in a group buy for the BH team for an organized hunt in VA that year... it was a nice drive up to Fredericksburg but I wasn't feeling well and by the second morning 6:00 AM came too early... it was a nice drive back home too. FWIW, I found what I wanted on that hunt. I wanted something Confederate, something Yankee, something colonial, and a bullet in wood... found all four and that was it. An Enfield, a three ringer, a hammer mechanism from a flintlock, and a bullet completely encased in a piece of tree limb. I dug out about 1/4 of one side just to the point you can see the bullet.

The T2 did it's job! It always does it's job except now that it is dead... but I am confident that FT will resurrect it!! Better than ever!

I'll call for an RA number tomorrow. This will be it's third trip back home. Do you think there is any reason I should include the coil? Can they tune the detector to the coil like a CZ? I may send my F75 LTD along for the ride to get a checkup. It don't want to ID correctly at depth, maybe a little bench time with a tech would do it some good.

J

 

[Dick from NC]

I had the same problem a year or so ago. We got to private property about 2 miles from old Cold Harbor and the T2 wouldn't come on. Talk about nerves, I took the batt. cover off and checked the batt. and they look ok. Put new batt. in and still nothing. Took them out and put them back in and still nothing. Took them back out and happen to notice that one of the batt. end contacts had slipped down. I took a small screw driver and push it back into place and hunted the rest of the day. On another trip turned the T2 on and started hunting and it wouldn't change settings but I could still hunt just couldn't change settings. The humidity was I think a little high and after a couple hours of hunting it started working ok.