I hunt exclusively in Disc until I get a target. I tried hunting in A/M and it drove me crazy. My method is a reverse of the reverse. I hunt in Disc and when I get an iffy tone, not clear and sharp to my ears, and not junk signals with a burp (but sometimes then too), I switch to A/M fixed and scan the target with the wiggle. Trash almost always reveals itself. If I get a good A/M-dig-me signal I dig it. Remember all that discussion about AM depth and Disc depth with Disc being generally considered deeper. Anyway In my ground that has been true for me. So by hunting this way I get what I believe to be the Disc depth advantage. Of course your question is---What is an A/M-dig-me signal. I referred DBsmokey to Clives book on the Sovereign and Excalibur because that is where I learned it and that is where he explains the sounds.. There are actually A/M signals that can identify targets. Especially coin targets that usually produce short and tight signals because of the size and structure of coins. I didn't get it until I stopped checking every target with my meter looking for magic numbers. I won't knock using a meter but my tone identification improved after I quit using one and the A/M signal is easily worked to clarity. If you do this you must have a good set of earphones. I liked Grey Ghosts but now I use Sunray Gold. One other thing. This works in my ground with almost nil mineralization. Will it work everywhere--probably not. HH
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Is there really much of a difference here ?
- Thread starter synthnut
- Start date
Excuse my probable ignorance, but in the past 4 or so months of very regular use of the GT I've found that the audio signals fall into - Clipped or very low tones = Iron....and Other higher tones = everything else (sometimes including big pieces of iron). I don't think anyone can honestly say with 100% certainty that there is a more reliable way of choosing to dig or not? Some folks seem to turn a very, very simple exercise into rocket science. It beeps a high (ish) tone = dig it up.....how much more simple do you want it????
Honestly people, if you are using any other method with this machine I guarantee you, you will be losing good things. That's not a help to people who hunt the beaches which are full of ring pulls, but if you don't dig every non-clipped or low signal, then you are going to lose things, it's a fact. I found a hammered silver Charles the 1st sixpence a couple of weeks ago. It's approximately just short of an inch in diameter, was minted in the 1640s, and was about 5 inches down. It gave exactly the same noise as a piece of chewing gum wrapper I had found about 10 minutes previously! If I had thought "oh, knackers, it's more foil" and ignored it I would have been without a coin that is absolutely stunning and worth around $400 ish.
Don't make an easy, enjoyable hobby into a nuclear physics doctorate. The machine beeps......you dig.....you find.......pretty simple.
Honestly people, if you are using any other method with this machine I guarantee you, you will be losing good things. That's not a help to people who hunt the beaches which are full of ring pulls, but if you don't dig every non-clipped or low signal, then you are going to lose things, it's a fact. I found a hammered silver Charles the 1st sixpence a couple of weeks ago. It's approximately just short of an inch in diameter, was minted in the 1640s, and was about 5 inches down. It gave exactly the same noise as a piece of chewing gum wrapper I had found about 10 minutes previously! If I had thought "oh, knackers, it's more foil" and ignored it I would have been without a coin that is absolutely stunning and worth around $400 ish.
Don't make an easy, enjoyable hobby into a nuclear physics doctorate. The machine beeps......you dig.....you find.......pretty simple.
Don,
Interesting way of hunting .......I have to smile because I just recently bought a pair of SunRay Golds and I'm returning them and buying a set of Black Widow's .....I like the "raw" tone of the B Widows better .....They're briter ,and more crisp for my ears ...... Jim
Interesting way of hunting .......I have to smile because I just recently bought a pair of SunRay Golds and I'm returning them and buying a set of Black Widow's .....I like the "raw" tone of the B Widows better .....They're briter ,and more crisp for my ears ...... Jim
Critter ,
The ONLY person that had any problem with a simple post that I made was YOU !!!...... Find someone else to argue with ..... I don't have time deal with your attitude ...... I am NOT making unfounded rumors about ANYBODY !!!....... You bring things onto YOURSELF with some of the things that you say , and then you blame others for attacking you when they disagree with you !!..... You have to argue with EVERYONE , and try to " one up" everytme someone posts something .... and then you cry when someone doesn't agree with you, or proves you wrong , and play the pity card ..... GROW UP !!.....You're right , this ISN"T HIGH SCHOOL !!!...... Tell ya what ....You stay away from my posts , and I'll stay away from yours !!...... This way your feelings won't get hurt ... Jim
The ONLY person that had any problem with a simple post that I made was YOU !!!...... Find someone else to argue with ..... I don't have time deal with your attitude ...... I am NOT making unfounded rumors about ANYBODY !!!....... You bring things onto YOURSELF with some of the things that you say , and then you blame others for attacking you when they disagree with you !!..... You have to argue with EVERYONE , and try to " one up" everytme someone posts something .... and then you cry when someone doesn't agree with you, or proves you wrong , and play the pity card ..... GROW UP !!.....You're right , this ISN"T HIGH SCHOOL !!!...... Tell ya what ....You stay away from my posts , and I'll stay away from yours !!...... This way your feelings won't get hurt ... Jim
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Late in the season I did a lot of discriminating probably missing a few good ones along with several coins, and silver due to the fact that I drive 2+ hours to the beach, Hunt for 5+ Hours then turn around and come back home. If I lived closer I would probably hunt differently?
The first video shows how good gold can sound, one of the Best sounding rings I have ever dug and in the second video, Me probably missing a good target, realized after editing the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5Tm-cwGr8o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NcrnX1y638
The first video shows how good gold can sound, one of the Best sounding rings I have ever dug and in the second video, Me probably missing a good target, realized after editing the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5Tm-cwGr8o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NcrnX1y638
GraveDiggerMax-VaBch-Va
New member
n/t
Lots of opinions and different ways to hunt.
The biggest thing that determines HOW I hunt with my detector is WHERE I hunt and the local CONDITIONS.
Over the years, I have preferred hunting the yards around private homes. Most of these homes are occupied, have a yard with grass and the like and an owner that doesn't want a mess made of it. Also, I usually have a limited amount of time to hunt and I may not be able to return anytime soon. Meaning to me, I need to make the most of my time. I have found that having a meter is helpful for me, not just to give me a rough idea of what I may have my coil over, but how deep the target is as well. Efficiency requires me to do some discrimination, use my best judgement. And as was mentioned above, a target ID reading is just that, a reference number, nothing more. As you experienced hunters know, with target ID there is no 'sure thing'.
Make of it what you will . If I decide NOT to dig up readings in the round and square tab range where I live, I have the very real possibility of leaving behind brass and aluminum (aluminium to our friends overseas) trade tokens, which I personally like finding and can be very valuable. The variety of sizes and shapes of these tokens is enormous and there isn't a reasonable way to go thru and determine target ID readings for all of them vs. the varieties of round and square tabs, which may or may not be bent, cut to a partial by a lawn mower, etc.
When I decide to go out and hunt some of the ghost towns in the west desert of Utah, I have to use a completely different approach. The alkali soil causes a lot of corrosion on coins of all types, there is a lot of corroded iron all over the place. In places like this, we are looking at iron and then everything else. I find a target ID meter of any type not very helpful. I have a shovel, I search for signals of most any type and dig them. I've had some very 'low' readings end up being silver coins and most of the readings are not clear and clean by any means. I would suspect this is the same for relic hunters all over the world.
Relic hunting in a ghost town and coin hunting in parks and ring hunting on beaches are all very different types of hunting. Sure, I can follow the Beep - Dig mentality everywhere I go, but it may not be the best way to approach an area or be the most productive. Conversely, how many times have I dug up a weird signal that didn't sound or ID right, but made me curious enough to dig it and it turned up to be something REALLY GOOD?
Beginners are especially good at this, because they've not yet become biased to certain tones and they just go ahead and dig it, not knowing any better. Ha, jokes on us when they find a silver dollar 2" deep in a heavily hunted park that everybody always thought was too shallow to be anything but a soda can.
As I mentioned earlier, I like to hunt the yards around old homes. If I have an opportunity to return to an old yard, I will often go thru different stages of hunting, starting with some discrimination to optimize my time there and make things as productive as possible. If the yard is good and productive, the next few times I return, I may try to remove as much 'junk' as I can in an effort to uncover other possibly good targets that may be masked. And lastly, once the yard has really been thinned out, I will go back and hunt hard, checking out any iffy signal, hunt carefully along metal sprinkler pipes, fences and sidewalks, looking for any possible leftovers I may have missed.
Some yards that I hunt have already been hunted by others and are past the beginning and middle stages and I end up going right to the 'iffy' stage, using all of my detectors abilities plus any wiley old guy tricks I've learned over the years. I am usually not disappointed and can find good items missed or left behind by others.
I guess what I am saying is that there is a time and place for meters, discrimination, and all sorts of hunting methods based on where we are hunting, the local conditions and what we are hunting for. It doesn't make a lot of sense to leave tools in the car (so to speak) that we could be putting to use if the situation calls for it.
Best of luck out there everybody,
Rich (Utah)
The biggest thing that determines HOW I hunt with my detector is WHERE I hunt and the local CONDITIONS.
Over the years, I have preferred hunting the yards around private homes. Most of these homes are occupied, have a yard with grass and the like and an owner that doesn't want a mess made of it. Also, I usually have a limited amount of time to hunt and I may not be able to return anytime soon. Meaning to me, I need to make the most of my time. I have found that having a meter is helpful for me, not just to give me a rough idea of what I may have my coil over, but how deep the target is as well. Efficiency requires me to do some discrimination, use my best judgement. And as was mentioned above, a target ID reading is just that, a reference number, nothing more. As you experienced hunters know, with target ID there is no 'sure thing'.
Make of it what you will . If I decide NOT to dig up readings in the round and square tab range where I live, I have the very real possibility of leaving behind brass and aluminum (aluminium to our friends overseas) trade tokens, which I personally like finding and can be very valuable. The variety of sizes and shapes of these tokens is enormous and there isn't a reasonable way to go thru and determine target ID readings for all of them vs. the varieties of round and square tabs, which may or may not be bent, cut to a partial by a lawn mower, etc.
When I decide to go out and hunt some of the ghost towns in the west desert of Utah, I have to use a completely different approach. The alkali soil causes a lot of corrosion on coins of all types, there is a lot of corroded iron all over the place. In places like this, we are looking at iron and then everything else. I find a target ID meter of any type not very helpful. I have a shovel, I search for signals of most any type and dig them. I've had some very 'low' readings end up being silver coins and most of the readings are not clear and clean by any means. I would suspect this is the same for relic hunters all over the world.
Relic hunting in a ghost town and coin hunting in parks and ring hunting on beaches are all very different types of hunting. Sure, I can follow the Beep - Dig mentality everywhere I go, but it may not be the best way to approach an area or be the most productive. Conversely, how many times have I dug up a weird signal that didn't sound or ID right, but made me curious enough to dig it and it turned up to be something REALLY GOOD?
Beginners are especially good at this, because they've not yet become biased to certain tones and they just go ahead and dig it, not knowing any better. Ha, jokes on us when they find a silver dollar 2" deep in a heavily hunted park that everybody always thought was too shallow to be anything but a soda can.
As I mentioned earlier, I like to hunt the yards around old homes. If I have an opportunity to return to an old yard, I will often go thru different stages of hunting, starting with some discrimination to optimize my time there and make things as productive as possible. If the yard is good and productive, the next few times I return, I may try to remove as much 'junk' as I can in an effort to uncover other possibly good targets that may be masked. And lastly, once the yard has really been thinned out, I will go back and hunt hard, checking out any iffy signal, hunt carefully along metal sprinkler pipes, fences and sidewalks, looking for any possible leftovers I may have missed.
Some yards that I hunt have already been hunted by others and are past the beginning and middle stages and I end up going right to the 'iffy' stage, using all of my detectors abilities plus any wiley old guy tricks I've learned over the years. I am usually not disappointed and can find good items missed or left behind by others.
I guess what I am saying is that there is a time and place for meters, discrimination, and all sorts of hunting methods based on where we are hunting, the local conditions and what we are hunting for. It doesn't make a lot of sense to leave tools in the car (so to speak) that we could be putting to use if the situation calls for it.
Best of luck out there everybody,
Rich (Utah)
Rich, you hit the nail on the head. Even though most of my hunting is in wooded sites for relics and coins I still like hunting some of the older Victorian age or older homes in the area. Whenever I'm hunting someones nice lawn or a well manicured park where I might be under someones scrutiny all the time I get very selective in my digging. Like you I concentrate on certain targets at first, in my case usually being the deeper repeatable targets the first few times I hunt someones lawn. If the site is private and has promise I will get less selective over time and not try to get it all on the first hunt or two and spread my visits out to where I'm not there everyday and being intrusive and this has worked well in getting invited back to hunt these nice large Victorian lawns in my area. Even in parks the patrons are always watching and don't like seeing someone on their knees digging holes with a pile of dirt next to them every time they look in your direction and this is what gets complaints to the parks departments and local police. I limit my park hunting to those times of the day and colder months when there is less people. When hunting anywhere else like ghost towns and old logging camps I dig everything except large iron. I dig all repeatable signals and about 50% of one way or non repeatable signals.