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My V3i seems unstable now, please help with settings

You can't just download a program - you have to make changes. Take it one step at a time. You don't have to have the coil connected when making changes either. Take off the coil, and step through the menu system while watching TV or something so that you can get a feel for where things are and how it's set up. To get to the "expert" menu (which I think is the useful one, but others like the 6 block - to each their own :) ), press menu twice then scroll down until you get to the expert menu option and press enter. All the options are in the expert menu. Not all are in the 6 block menu. The live controls are nice, but not all live controls are up for all the options, so to really see what options you have, the best route for looking around is the expert menu. Once you have your settings set up the way you like, then the live controls are handy to make changes if you only have one change to do. But for changing lots of items, the menu is easiest.

Check out Carl's advanced manual here: http://forums.whiteselectronics.com/showthread.php?46072-V3i-Advanced-User-s-Guide

There are spreadsheets posted here and there that show the default settings (it's also in our manuals for the most part). You can compare what the defaults are with the program you want to set up and mark those. You don't have to make changes to every option. Ignore configuration for the most part - the loop size is in configuration though. Colors you don't need, size of text or icons is not important at this time, etc. Once you get more comfortable with the detector, then adjust those that might make it more personal if you wish. But for now, stick with the basics. The tone changes are in the audio menu, the number of frequencies to run and whether the frequency information is processed for salt water or normal soil is in the frequency menu. Discrimination settings - which targets to accept or reject are in the discrimination menu.

Pick a program that you think you'll never use. Then when you go through the menu, make some changes to help understand what sort of user interface you'll see. If you never use that program, you won't have messed one up that you will want to use. But even if you do, you can always restore it back to the factory (and once you're more familiar with the machine, then you will be more ready to ask how on that). Once you're comfortable with making the changes, then you will feel better about making them to the one you want to make them to.

Remember, some of these programs are set up really hot. And that works well for somebody who knows the machine. You might start with their programs, but back off on gain and sensitivity a little until you get more familiar with it.

Also, if you get to a function that you don't understand, you might want to check out the quick reference on it - press menu and zoom (hold menu while pressing zoom). You'll get more information on that topic. And below that topic's info, there may be links to more detailed information on the general topic (like maybe you want to know about VCO, so you get the quick ref on it. But, then below, there is a link to "About audio" which gets you more info on audio in general). Below that will also be information on what various key strokes do. But, again, the key strokes might be digging too deep for the moment.
 
Good advice Anne and thank you for the input. Your help is always appreciated.
 
Hi the link below will help you to learning the machine as it has helped me a lot it is written by the head engineer that worked with the v3i at whites.
I hope this helps,
sarge

http://forums.whiteselectronics.com/forumdisplay.php?71-Advanced-User-s-Guide
 
oops sorry didn't see Anns post already giving you the link, lol it should help you more when working with the programing part of the machine

sarge
 
Today I was detecting normally and after half an hour I experienced the same symptoms faulty signals vdis jumping up and down. well the battery was at 9.5v at that time. my detector is not old has only just about ten hours of detecting. I think cause is as i described on this post before, except battery, except high sensitivity and emi could be also, a very high mineralization at a spot of the site your hunting. it may be something to stick on the coil underneath also and you don't see it. are many things! :happy: hunting is a hobby we all like so I think a v3i is a sensitive instrument and we ve got to trust it.
 
There is always some type of EMI. Everything is wireless today. Not all sites can be detected, really. So far I haven't had this happen. You just have to know what settings can be used to minimize EMI, and then do your best.
 
So today I ordered a 12 x 10 SEF EXcelerator coil from Kellyco. I wanted to do this anyway to get the increased depth, but I'm hoping this is also the solution to the instability issues. Will keep you posted.
 
Sorry but I don't believe the SEF is the answer. Make sure they send you the White Coil, and not the black version. If the detector behaves with the SEF then it is because you have a bad coil now. If the 10x12 is marginally better in any aspect it would have nothing to do with what you describe.

When I tested the V3i prototypes I used the 10 D2 at RX15 even when it was not necessary. It operated just fine. It is my favorite coil. I have a White version SEF and really see no major improvements.

Larry stated, "I did some coil comparisons for White's engineering with the prototype V3 and I experienced less ground noise, slightly better depth and better coverage with the non V rated 12X10 SEF coil that I was using at the time." I don't dispute anything he said.

He said he experienced less ground noise, but your problem is not when your coil is on the ground.

He said he got slightly better depth, again nothing to do with your problem. Some of the depth increase could be attributed to larger coil size.

It gives better coverage, again nothing to do with your problem. The coverage increase is attributed to larger coil size.

[size=large]The post is long so did you test the coil, according to the Whites test, and what were the results?[/size]

Oh by the way what does the detector do with NO coil attached?

Except for you running boost your other settings would not cause the problem.
[attachment 245749 Albert.jpg]
 
A friend with a deferent model same symptoms was..... THE COIL. It was completely unstable, all signals were coming out from it like was from a very powerful emi. All ended with a new coil. But I can not understand if the detector is new it should not do that.
 
I haven't called White's yet, but I did disconnect the coil & turned it on. I moved it all around in the air, which (with the D2 connected) previously caused lots of beeping & rapidly changing VDI display. It was silent now. None of the chatter or instability.

More fuel for the "bad coil" argument?

Scott
 
Probably yes. You need to check with another coil first. As matter of fact these coils dd10 we ve got as stocks especially on v3is they are very sensitive as i ve read in deferent posts, they are not on any standard frequency if I am not wrong so this is making them more sensitive and for prospecting.
 
I still think you have a defective coil, call your dealer or White's for a new one.
 
Yes it sure is more fuel, looks like a bad coil. also another reason to buy from a local dealer when possible.

Let us know what happens.
 
As mentioned, run Whites coil test, once you determine a bad coil, call Whites home office, tell them you have a bad coil, they will ship one out no questions asked. Thats what they did for me. I had a new coil in a matter of a few days. Called about sending the bad one in and was told it was not necessary. Great customer service as usual. For that one reason alone I will always be a Whites customer!
 
I'm getting into this a little late but I would bet hard currency it is a bad coil. Been there, done that, several times myself and Whites treated me like royalty! Give them a call, let them go through a couple things with you and they will take care of it!

Good luck and don't loose faith in the machine - it's awesome!

The Shark
 
So, thanks to everybody for your input, and for hanging in here to this point. I received a replacement D2 coil today, plugged 'er in, and...

PERFECT.

No jumpiness, no constant falses, she's as steady as I'd hoped.

I just air-tested it on a worn thin half reale...constant positive signal at 9.5"!!!! 2c piece at 10" in the air test!

Can't wait to go find some goodies now...I've had this machine for 6 weeks now and I finally feel like I'm swinging the finely tuned precision instrument I expected.

Scott
 
Ground Tracking: Locktrac

Just a thought try turing that off - and yes check your loop and make sure the your cable is tightly connected to your box - I sold one last week and they guy came back for some instruction, it worked perfectly for me in my seeded garden - go back to your default setting till you understand the machine better :) good luck AND watch your DVD
 
whitesofpcb said:
Ground Tracking: Locktrac

Just a thought try turing that off - and yes check your loop and make sure the your cable is tightly connected to your box - I sold one last week and they guy came back for some instruction, it worked perfectly for me in my seeded garden - go back to your default setting till you understand the machine better :) good luck AND watch your DVD

If you look at the post above.... The problem was a bad coil and Whites sent him a new one.
 
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