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dewcon4414

Well-known member
Im new to the SE, but not detecting. My question is how many of you start out learning the SE by using the Smartfind screen in lieu of the Digital? I used the machine yesterday for the first time and noticed i really was relying on looking at the screen for specific numbers. Im going to change my tactacs and use the smartfind just because i think it will make me listen more to the tones and dig more targets. What is your choice and why?
 
tones , tones ,tones , learn the tones and dig everything,except the lower right cornor, i use the cursor and numbers just to help verify the tones , smartfind , all metal , sens as high as you can.
 
Quite an adjustment Dew. I too was looking for numbers on The XS. I found the best way to link the two mentally is on the tone ID. For coins, you still listen for the high tone and the roundness of the target. From what I have read, once you get to know it, the Smartfind gives you a lot More information than the Digital. What helped me most on the switch is I got some old finds, junk, jewelry, tabs and coins and air tested the targets. I then knew what to listen for and where on the screen the cross hairs were when I actually got out to play. What I missed the most, is the VCO on pinpointing, but I did real good with the X method. The coins were within 3 inches of the center and the X-1 took over from there.
 
I am also very new to the Minelab Xs and I appreciate your responses to dewcon..I will do the same.
 
Welcome to the "newbie" club Elton. Another thing or two I played with on my first outing is that sensitivity at 32 auto worked OK, but I think I was getting a little more depth and better sounds when I went to manual 17 in my area. I started at 12 and keyed up until the threshold started to go and then backed it down two notches. The other thing I messed with is the audio adjustments. You have a lot of choices to chose from to suit your hearing and that made a big difference to my ears. I liked the Audio 1 best and knocked the tone down a notch or two.
 
Yes its different, but i have to say its like the first time you turned on the MXT you know it has power in the box. I noticed today i was getting a lot of high signals but the numbers werent moving ... am i to assume that was falsing or just bottle caps and junk? i was running AM with bottle caps and nails disc out and was in a trashy area. I still thought id see those numbers move with every high tone... they didnt. After reading your response Larry maybe im running to hot. I hadnt tried messing with the tone but your right that would make a difference just like the DFX i use 190 in lieu of the 231. I have the VCO on the SE Larry but its not as effective as the DFX i too have to have to sneak up on the coins with the tip of the coil. Its just simpler for me. I do have a question for the forum... when working in Ferr instead of Cond what are the tones based on? In Cond i know its the conductivity of the target. Im guessing Ferr is based on BOTH and if the Ferr number is disc out you will get a null. I have a pretty good collection of coins, jewlery, and great finds ill have to run for tones. Its like anything just overwhelmed at first but i really like learning new equipment. Thanks for your info Larry... ill keep in touch and great finds the other day.
 
Push and hold the power button to reset the SE back to factory settings.
Do your air test to hear the tones and switch to digital and check your numbers if you like.
You will note that your tones will increase from a very low tone at the bottom of the scale to a high tone at the top of the scale.
Example: low tone = nickle, high tone = silver.
Now if you push Iron mask you will see a bar from left to right.
Open this bar up to 30. This knocks out just the smallest iron.
Go to sounds and then Ferrous. This will now make the low tones come in on the left of the screen (iron)
And high tones to the right (coin and Gold) along with pull tabs and other nonferrous metals.
When hunting the low drone of iron will be dominant. When you hit a potentially good target the tone will increase in pitch.
By knocking out Bottle caps and other items you are creating an opportunity for nulling.
When ever your Explorer nulls out over an item such as a beer cap (example) you have the potential to miss a good target.
If you hunt in Iron mask and ferrous tones for a few days, you will come to see its potential.
This is the way I've hunted for years with the Explorers. It's not for everyone but it's worth trying.
This is just my opinion and the world is full of them. Happy Hunting. NH Bob
 
Thanks for the tips Bob. I agree about the iron mask. On the XS, an iron mask of 10 works good for me. That is probably close to setting the discrimination to 0 - +95 on the DFX Dew. I have not tried the Ferrous side yet, I hunted in Conduct when I was out. I have read for coin hunting, Conduct might be a better choice. Will have to wait and see what works best for me. I do want to give it a try though.
 
Yes, it would be a lot like +95 on your line of Whites.
If you are going to use 10 on your XS then stay with conductive .
If you open up to 15 or 16 on your XS then go to ferrous tones.
I hate doing this but I have to say "this is just my opinion"
Good luck and Hapy hunting.
 
Opinions with experience carries some extra weight Bob, thanks again for the tips. A Merry Christmas to all, hope Santa was nice to you, I must have been a VERY good boy this year.
 
Thanks Larry I will give it a try when the weather breaks..I have been doing a lot of testing and am maybe getting the hang of this darn thing..It sure is different in certain ways..but it still detects so I will prevail !!! I have found my biggest problem was trying to swing it like a Whites..I went back read lots of posts and now understand sweep speed "Slow" is critical..Somehow I missed that point... Another thing I have tried to many different detectors the past season..you know what happens when you start switching..You are always playing the learning game and that hurts your overall finds.
 
I havent noticed much difference in the basics from the DFX to the SE. If it nulls you loose sensitivity longer than on the DFX therefore you loose target potential. Ferr tones for me are very much like DFX low to high. Im surprised you had to drop you sensitivity so low Larry or maybe im just falsing a LOT and dont realize it yet. I have been hunting in too much trash to begin with. As far as IM thats pretty simple alot like whites adjustment for VDI disc. That one i do have down and would use more frequent than learn especially for a leasure hunt. I reviewed some cheat sheats for ferr/cond numbers and noticed a lot of the coins and jewerly werent way over there at the -22. I do like the AM much better than the DFX i just never liked the way it reacted. Merry Christmas all....
 
dewcon4414
My post on resetting and using iron mask was meant for you. But Larry jumped in, which is Ok. I have a feeling you may have changed too many things and was trying to get you back to basics, so you could see if the SE still gave you trouble when set to factory settings.
Then try out the iron mask set to 30 and ferrous tones. Quarters, halves Dollars and Large coppers all come in high tone in ferrous. Your other coins will come in a tad lower on the musical scale so to speak. You have to set the machine up the way I said and run some test coins over the coil to see what I'm talking about.
 
Welcome aboard Jack.

Dew, I think the low sensitivity for me has to do with the ground conditions here. (Very mineralized) I have read that some others in Illinois are also using manual 17 - 19. Auto 24 also worked better for me than auto 32, but still preferred manual. I will have to try Ferrous, even if I have to lower the IM. I have a buddy who is going to let me use his X8 and I have the carbon fiber lower rod which I hope will help with the arm fatigue.
 
Bob i knew you were talking to me and i have it set up that away. I got most of my info from James ND and off of some of Charles NY's posts on the web. I appreciate any advice and have tried them all so far, basic, IM, Ferr and Cond. Im just trying a few things to see what works best for me. I tried Ferr IM on a couple of toe ring i found with the DFX, have to be honest right now i would not have even noticed the tone. Larry what i did do was try your suggestion about changeing the Tone in Cond and was surprised when running a pulltab and nickel. It was easy to tell the difference. I ran a good many coins and jewerly today past the coil just hopeing to get more time now that christmas is past. Bob... i did see what you were talking about when you said there is a point in IM where its best to switch from Cond to Ferr. Once again thanks to all for their response Happy New Years all.
 
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