So the Red Racer I traded my F75 here, arrived this morning...Thank you Chuck_NC. Brand new, and with an extra RC26 coil. I've watched so many videos, and read so much here, I didn't even read the manual yet, I just put it together and started exploring my Well Hunted Front yard. I Promptly found a Penny that I'm sure I've been over many times. Rang out like a Bell..Wasn't that deep, but surrounded by a bunch of junk... Good Job Racer......
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Racer Arrived
- Thread starter Sonnyd
- Start date
Sonnyd, how about another update on your Red Racer. I'm hoping for a good report.
I'm taking delivery on a RR, Wed this week. That's why I want an encouraging update.
I didn't buy it to replace my DeLeon, mainly for beach use. However, if it will simply compete with the DeLeon, then it's going to be one heck of a machine. Anything more will be gravy.
I'm taking delivery on a RR, Wed this week. That's why I want an encouraging update.
I didn't buy it to replace my DeLeon, mainly for beach use. However, if it will simply compete with the DeLeon, then it's going to be one heck of a machine. Anything more will be gravy.
oleterryg said:
Don't know if you saw my follow up post about finding the Gold ring, about 45 minutes into my first hunt. It's been pretty hot here the last few weeks, so I haven't hunted too much. It seems to really like Nickels too. I hardly ever find a Nickel, but I've found at least a dozen in the few times I've been out. I purchased a NEL Sharp coil for it, and it's Awesome in Trashy areas. I was detecting around a picnic shelter, where I could just about put my pin pointer down in any spot and get a signal. I found lots of Pennies and Dimes in the mix. I'm still learning the signals, I've just about got the bottle caps ruled out, as long as I don't try and hurry. I'm really pleased with the Racer so far. I have to kind of share time with my Nokta Fors Relic, and my Black Vaquero too. I probably haven't got more then 20 hours on the Vaquero or the Relic, so I'm learning them too. I think you will enjoy it a lot. I still haven't used the 11x7" coil, it's still wrapped up. I've been using the 5.5x10 and the 5" NEL.. It's a fun machine, but you really have to like to dig, because it goes DEEP, even with the small NEL
Sonny, it appears I won't take delivery until Friday. Unfortunately, we will be leaving on an out of state trip Friday morning. Will have to get a neighbor to get it out of the weather. Shoot.
Anyways, got a question for you.
I printed a manual on line, but it fails to list the VID numbers of a zink and copper penny. So, if you would be so kind, I would appreciate it.
I'll do air tests for the ID numbers next week. But I'd like to know now.
Thank you?
Anyways, got a question for you.
I printed a manual on line, but it fails to list the VID numbers of a zink and copper penny. So, if you would be so kind, I would appreciate it.
I'll do air tests for the ID numbers next week. But I'd like to know now.
Thank you?
[size=small](with the Red housing)[/size] are:
Most Indian Head Cents and many early Wheat-Back/Lincoln Cents from 1909 to about 1920, will read ± '82' VDI.
Better quality, meaning higher conductivity, good-copper Cents, Clad and Silver Dimes will read in the '84' to '86' range.
The last figure is on Page 17, if I recall, in the User Manual. It also suggests a VDI read-out of '56' to '58' for most US 5¢ coins [size=small](we call them a Nickel)[/size] , and '88' to '92' should cover the range of most US Quarters.
Monte
Most Indian Head Cents and many early Wheat-Back/Lincoln Cents from 1909 to about 1920, will read ± '82' VDI.
Better quality, meaning higher conductivity, good-copper Cents, Clad and Silver Dimes will read in the '84' to '86' range.
The last figure is on Page 17, if I recall, in the User Manual. It also suggests a VDI read-out of '56' to '58' for most US 5¢ coins [size=small](we call them a Nickel)[/size] , and '88' to '92' should cover the range of most US Quarters.
Monte
That's normal if you're in or close to a house. The Racer comes pretty hot from the factory. Once you're out in the field it should quiet down. Don't be afraid to lower the gain. The Racer will still get good depth with the gain set as low as 30 -50. Often I run my gain at 10 or lower when hunting shallow or recent fresh drops of coins and jewelry.
OregonGregg
Well-known member
I think, but I have no proof other than my own un-scientific observation....but I believe the Original Racer (Red Racer) is sparkier, a bit more of a hot rod machine over the Racer 2. I think after the complaints of the small coil overload on Red they toned the Racer 2 down a bit. That's why I still have my original Red Racer....its a hot rod.
For me I found that when using the little OOR coil ( 4.7 x 5" ) for best results keep the coil 1.5 inches above the ground.....don't scrub the coil on the ground. That helps eliminate a lot of overload signals and the coil will actually perform better ( assuming if your sites are like mine that nails, rusted tin etc is right on top of the ground or just under the surface.) My settings were pretty much the default settings when using Red..... Three Tone, gain 70, ID Filter 10 ( if you don't want to hear all the iron you can run you ID Filter up to 21. That's enough to knock out nails and quiet it down a bit and still get great unmasking.)
For me I found that when using the little OOR coil ( 4.7 x 5" ) for best results keep the coil 1.5 inches above the ground.....don't scrub the coil on the ground. That helps eliminate a lot of overload signals and the coil will actually perform better ( assuming if your sites are like mine that nails, rusted tin etc is right on top of the ground or just under the surface.) My settings were pretty much the default settings when using Red..... Three Tone, gain 70, ID Filter 10 ( if you don't want to hear all the iron you can run you ID Filter up to 21. That's enough to knock out nails and quiet it down a bit and still get great unmasking.)
OregonGregg
Well-known member
In a NV site I came across one of those little zinc bottle stoppers/caps about the size of a dime and ring in as one. I could see it and it was mixed in with a ton of ferrous trash. My ID Filter was at 21. I could see it but could not get a signal on it. Monte was next to me and I showed him and he asked what my Disc ( ID Filter) was set at. I said 21. He said lower it to 10. I did and sure enough, I could finally get a signal/beep on that little zinc cap. This was in an extremely ferrous trashy site and goes to show the least amount of Discrimination you can run, the better the unmasking. But with the ID Filter at 10 your going to hear about everything and it can get real busy in your ears 
That is why I was so excited when the Racer 2 came out with the iron audio feature, I leave my disc at the very minimum and adjust the Iron Audio ( low tone) to just barely hear it. I run minimum disc ( ID Filter ) at 2 and the machine now has the best chance at getting good targets unmasked from all the ferrous junk that is in these old sites.
That is why I was so excited when the Racer 2 came out with the iron audio feature, I leave my disc at the very minimum and adjust the Iron Audio ( low tone) to just barely hear it. I run minimum disc ( ID Filter ) at 2 and the machine now has the best chance at getting good targets unmasked from all the ferrous junk that is in these old sites.OregonGregg
Well-known member
If you're in a somewhat moderate trashy site, not extreme than I wouldn't be afraid at all to kick my ID Filter up to 21 or a bit higher.