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silver programs for the xlt

[size=large]standard answers. what's your ground like. any power lines around. how many people in your town?
these questions on who has the best or good program can't have simple answers. too many variables. not enough info for someone around your part of the country to answer the question.you have to supply better info. we won't tell anyone any secrets. where are you?

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You don't need to get real fancy. Turn your pre amp gain up to 5 and only respond to the high tones.
 
The old head isn't what it used to be. Hunt in the coin mode with the pre amp gain turned up to 5. Look for the repeatable signals 70 and above.
 
Those of us who have been detecting since the mid-1960's and/or a lot in the 1970's, or even in the very early 1980's, can assure you that the bulk of the silver US coins that WERE at one time lost, HAVE BEEN found. "Thank You! It was fun!!" :hot:

Does that mean they are all gone? Of course not. What it does mean is that we got to hunt before there was a lot of the higher-conductive modern-day trash that we face today. Most of those silver coins, and there used to be a lot of them, we located shallow, in the surface to 3" or maybe 4" range, and without as much modern junk to deal with it was rather easy to recover all coins, to include the silver coins and the 'clad' dimes and quarters which were only in their infancy back then.

We also hunted all of the same popular sites we visit today, such as parks and schools, so the silver coins, last commonly minted 47 years ago, were found. At least a bulk of them that were 'findable' were found. Naturally some good old silver coins didn't get detected and that's where we have to focus our attention today. On the possible sites that didn't get worked more regularly, or to try and luck upon an un-searched site. Also, to simply address the biggest deterrent of all, and that is masking trash.

So, with ANY metal detector we need to look for renovation work. Sites such as:

* Dug us sprinkler lines in an old park or school lawn.

* Torn up sidewalks, roads, and other renovation work that could have covered older coins from long ago.

* Digging or 'grooming' off the upper sod around parks or schools where they put in a walking or jogging path and have scraped down 1"-3".


We can also seek other old-use sites that we might have access to, such as:

* Vacant lots where old houses used to be.

* Vacant lots where kids used to play ball.

* Old-use picnic spots, recreation sites, view points, etc.


A direct approach to finding previously un-recovered Silver coins in trashy sites:

* This is the simple method of hunting any older-use location, such as a park or school, but simply concentrating on cleaning out the shallower masking trash. That will allow us to hear a good audio response, and possibly get a reasonably useful visual display, of ALL favorable older targets, such as Indian Head and 'wheat-back' pennies, 'V' and Buffalo nickels, and all sorts of silver coins.

Yes, there is still silver out there to be found, but we usually DON'T 'find' it, as such, because we can't hear it, or perhaps it doesn't provide a rock-solid TID due to the nearby masking trash. About 13 years ago I was out hunting with a friend and we were both using XLT's. He complained a bit, at the time, that his XLT didn't seem to get him much silver or older coins. He also commented that the TID reading was often not locking on well, and that the sites had too much junk. That is a common gripes made by many hobbyists, especially with out modern visual display models.

I was finding stuff, but my approach was different than his, and he was a new-comer to the hobby, too, with only a year or two working his XLT. My response to him was that the park we were at, one of the larger and older city parks around here, had produced a lot of silver coins for me through the years. In 'the good old days' silver was plentiful, and we didn't have as much junk. There was still silver to be had, but we just had to listen for some good hits, but also some 'iffy' responses from deeper silver coins, or better still, clean out the masking trash.

Well, after hunting for a couple of ours he wasn't overly thrilled, but he also had just been overly trusting that his expensive detector and faith in the Tone ID and Target ID wouldn't let him down. I had spotted a fellow patiently hunting on the SW corner of the park near the crosswalk and restrooms and a picnic bowery. As we drove off I circled that way to stop and say 'Hi' and see how he was doing. It would also be a good 'education' for my friend because this old character was using a very dated White's Coinmaster IV with TR and no discrimination. (the model that lacked Discrimination).

In the couple of hours we had hunted the park's opposite side my friend had wandered all over the place chasing his search coil. This old guy just stuck in one spot.I knew it would be 'educational' so when I stopped I asked if he had turned up any good old coins yet. He replied that he had pulled a few silvers and several wheat-backs, then showed us several silver dimes, most of which were Mercury types. My friend was surprised! I asked him to explain the 'techniques' he used with that old White's so my friend might understand why.

In short, he said he knows he doesn't get the depth with the older model that the newer detectors do, but his detector works. he doesn't have all the "fancy stuff," but he doesn't need it. There is just too much trash in these well-hunted places and people ignore it with modern detectors. All he said he did was grid off an area, overlap 50% or more, and work it slowly and listen for any target. Then, he recovered everything! Clean an area out and that meant he would get the better targets masked by the bad ones.

So, if you want to find silver coins, LOCATION is the 1st step. Don't just pick a modern park or school, but select a site that was around long before 1964 so that there would have been ample human activity to cause coin loss.

PATIENCE is also important because you need to overlap the coil, listen to everything (or almost all of it), and then forget about relying on the audio and visual TID info. Instead, select a smaller, dedicated area, hunt it, and clean it out.

DETCTOR SET-UP is also important because you should just ignore the common Iron nail and then go after everything that responses which is higher-conductive. Yes, the iron nails will mask some targets and, at times, I work to clean those out as well. It just depends upon the site.

With the XLT, specifically, I usually use a smaller coil to work in and around the trash or brush, preferring the 5.3 BullsEye. I do a Disc. Block set-up and I accept everything from -40 to +95. The XLT, like the DFX, has a lot of adjustment functions that really don't need to be used,m or used very little. One you have the best Threshold for your headphones and hearing, and have set the Discrimination where you need it.

I then run the AC (motion Disc.) Sensitivity rather high. I usually have my program set at '75'. Then, I bump up the Pre-Amp Gain just to the point of instability, then smooth it out .... barely. I usually start with a PAG setting of '10' and then increase it if the site is quiet, or slowly reduce it if there is too much chatter/noise.

By doing this in can increase the overall depth, but especially help by allowing a slower sweep speed. I suggest a person find an older site, select a most likely spot for silver, mark off a grid, then patiently work it clean. Yes, you can be picky and only go after the higher-reading VDI's that are above about '70', but that won't remove the trash that can be masking good targets.

That's all the help I can give. Now, I need to shop for a brand new or nearly-new XLT as it's better weather and silver hunting season!

Monte
 
Words of true wisdom......especially to the newer users. Hope ya don't mind I had a little fun with the nickname:) You are a Tyrannosaurus Rex, in the world of metal detecting.:)
 
start with the coin program and then adjust all of this?
 
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