Hi all. I'm a new member on here but have enjoyed reading the Posts for some time. I've used my T2 for the last 7 years and still love it !. My only gripes are : (1) lack of any friction on the knob lacks accuracy & feels cheap. (2) Difficult to see your Menu selection on bright days, which can be frustrating, eg when you think you are going from All Metal to Discrim., but find you were still on Ground Balance & you've just lost your setting !. Just for fun, if you've got some time to kill, what would you change on the T2 ( any version ) , if you could ?. Apologies if this has been covered before - I didn't see it. Also , thanks to Dave J. and the team for building this great machine !. Regards, Tim. ( UK).
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T2 - What would you change ?.
- Thread starter R2T2
- Start date
Rectifying the knob is about as easy as it gets,just pull the knob off and then put a small 'o' ring on the shaft,push the knob back and you have instant friction in place,stops it being knocked so easily.
Dont think i would change anything really,mine is about 10 years old or so,one of the 1st batch in the UK and never had any problems with it and still 'possibly' one of my all time favourite detectors,certainly found me the most gold coinage and best finds.
Dont think i would change anything really,mine is about 10 years old or so,one of the 1st batch in the UK and never had any problems with it and still 'possibly' one of my all time favourite detectors,certainly found me the most gold coinage and best finds.
I just got a t2 classic about a week ago, it's my first metal detector and so far I'm pretty happy with it. Still trying to figure out the sweet spot on the coil for the pin point but I'm getting better. I would also like it if the settings would stay after the unit was powered down. Just got a makro pin pointer yesterday so I know it's going to make detecting more enjoyable.
Flinger said:
The sweetspot on the coil of a T2 is about as easy as it gets,its actually marked on the coil for you on both the top and the bottom with 2 large round dots,the top one is about 1'' in front of the coil lugs and also the same dot underneath.....most folks think they are the moulding holes but they are actually the pinpointer marks.
Regarding the settings,it only takes 5-10 seconds to set the T2 up and you are off detecting after a Ground Grab,dont get much easier than that.
Hope that information helps you out.
Hawkstone
New member
I would have the audio socket underneath, rather than on top. Less chance of water ingress, and better for the headphone lead.
I find that even though my lead has an angled jack plug, it often swivels to the wrong side whilst detecting. Then when I set the machine down, my cable gets caught up on the head unit, tugging at my headphones.
Oh, and a connector block in the handle, so one can easily change the handgrip.
I find that even though my lead has an angled jack plug, it often swivels to the wrong side whilst detecting. Then when I set the machine down, my cable gets caught up on the head unit, tugging at my headphones.
Oh, and a connector block in the handle, so one can easily change the handgrip.
The balance has always been spot on for these machines.
I would like to see a few minor tweaks though, and one major one.
Saved settings would be the first one. You can do this on the F75 but the T2 has a larger iron resolution than the F75 which is extremely beneficial when it comes to relic hunting.
Ability to use concentric coils would be another...this would help with those rusty crown caps.
A backlight but make it to where it can be turned on or off.
And the big one...water proof that bad boy.
I would like to see a few minor tweaks though, and one major one.
Saved settings would be the first one. You can do this on the F75 but the T2 has a larger iron resolution than the F75 which is extremely beneficial when it comes to relic hunting.
Ability to use concentric coils would be another...this would help with those rusty crown caps.
A backlight but make it to where it can be turned on or off.
And the big one...water proof that bad boy.
SlingingCoils
New member
Have you tried removing the knob and place a small rubber O ring on the shaft and sandwhich it between the knob and face, creating drag?
SlingingCoils
New member
Great minds think alike 
Herb Jones
New member
Backlight
The sweet spot on the 11"DD coil is where the center veins meet. There is a small spot there that resembles a molding mark. To make mine more visible, I placed a hot pink colored paper hole reinforcement ring on it. So when you pinpoint your target that marks dead center where to dig.
2 Much Trash
Well-known member
Charlives said:
O ring is a great idea. Also works great is to buy the dust/rain covers. They fit tight and ended the problem on my t2s. Killed 2 birds with one stone.
Mike Hillis
Well-known member
I'd like a varible tone break option on it.
HH
Mike
HH
Mike