I put a Sun Ray 8 inch coil on my SE, and instantly started being able to isolate targets better. You hearing multi tones under your coil is because there are probably multiple targets under your coil at one time, and coming from the F 75, you are probably swinging a little too fast. While yes, you get better depth and ID with a faster sweep speed on most machines, including the SE, the faster sweep speed is also causing you to have to process the tones in your brain faster than you are currently ready to manage. First off, a smaller coil will cover less ground and therefore, give you less to deal with in each pass. The stock ten is basically to big a coil to use in most situations, even after you get incredibly proficient with the tones; put it on a shelf and use a smaller coil. You will end up using it, but at first, it is going to frustrate the living *&%^* out of you. Honestly, you will not be given up that much depth by using the 8 inch instead, however, you will be sampling about one third the cubic footage of soil at one time. That sounds like a huge negative, but it is not, having less to deal with at one time will give you the ability to hear targets independently. You then will be able to learn the good and bad tones faster. You don't learn a language in paragraphs at a time, you learn it one word at a time, or you learn nothing. I own just about every coil made for the SE, from almost every manufacturer, and the best all around size in an area with little to medium dense trash (general all around) is my Sun Ray 8. Some people have complained about the original Slimline tens (Mine lab's stock coil), mine never was a problem, too damn big for most places I hunt but not really unstable. So use a smaller coil / turn your gain down to at least 7 (cuts out allot of the iron falsing) / put your sensitivity in auto until you can recognize falses, I have found thousands of coins in auto, almost never use manual sensitivity unless I'm trying to squeeze an extra inch out of the ID / Volume 10 / threshold-barely audible/ tone variability-10/ tone limits-10/ audio response-normal/ Recovery- turn fast on, deep off (helps to get a quicker response time, separating good and bad tones) and is easier to learn the machine with / use a slower sweep speed when you are in trash, try and isolate or separate the different tones (targets) from each other with coil control (damn near impossible at first with the larger coils) / lastly, to get rid of a great many useless tones at once is your Iron Mask setting- a setting of 28 or 27 will black out about a quarter of an inch of the left side of your screen nulling out most of your iron nails and ferrous-iron junk. This, in itself will eliminate more than half the tones you hear, you can also select out bottle caps (very bottom right corner of your screen) I have never found a single worth while target in that area other than really small caliber old lead bullets, mostly 22's. The advantage of the Explorers are also their disadvantage, their slow response time that allows them to ID better also hinders your ability to use discrimination without potentially nulling out collocated trash/good targets, so eventually you want to be able to hunt wide open all metal, iron mask 32; HOWEVER, you first have to know the tones in order to do that. / put your machine in conduct when using iron mask 27-28 and listen for the high tones, (some people like ferrous tones at this point but then Indians and wheats sound like round pull tabs). SILVER UPPER RIGHT, watch your smart find screen, if the cursor bounces to the left allot, it is probably an iron false or collocated iron and silver, only experience will tell you which. The further right the cursor lands, the better. Concentrate your digs on the targets that hit in the upper right hand quarter of your screen and you will find silver by day two-that's where all quarters, halves, pennies, wheats, Indians, dimes, half dimes, dollars, large gold and square pull tabs and alluminum hit. The extreme top right hand corner is where hot rocks hit but they sound "broken" or scratchy as compared to a silver half that will sound smooth and flutey. The bottom right quarter of your screen is where nickles, small gold and pull tabs hit, far bottom right corner is rusty bottle caps (easy to tell on the Explorers). When you finally get to a point where you know the tones and what they mean you can start hunting in all metal in ferrous tones, and start to separate trash and good targets very close to one another just by tone alone. If you search for my posts on the SE October 2006, when I first got my SE, you will find I had the exact same problems you were having, I don't have those problems anymore and there wasn't a thing wrong with my machine. Most important of all, to much discrimination on the SE and you will become a shallow clad hunter. Always noise cancel according to the way the manual says to do it, and every time, clean the dirt out between your coil and coil cover. And lastly, pick a less than maximum trash area, in really dense trash, even the 8 inch is a hard coil to get by with, never mind that beast of a ten it came with. That will be $9.95 please
