Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

General Rules

The Finds Treasure Forum Classifieds is for individual use only with the exception of banner advertising buyers. Those buyers may advertise their traded in, discontinued models, etc.

Individual sellers may post their normal unwanted detectors, or accessories in assigned classified forums, but they  cannot exceed (1) one item in a (3) three month period for each classified forum.

Only For Sale, For Trade, or Wanted to Buy ads are allowed.

Only Forum Members Registered for  90 days or longer that have more than 24 significant posts in our other forums, may post For Sale or Trade ads.

Rules for Non Sponsoring Sellers:

  • Items for sale, or for trade, should be your own personal property and be accurately described.
  • Your for sale or trade post should be self contained, without references to another site where you may also have it for sale.
  • Do not put links to eBay.
  • Do not put links to other forums where you may also have the same item for sale or trade.
  • Dealers are not allowed to post in Classifieds unless they are a sponsor.

Advertisements not adhering to the above rules will be deleted without warning or notification.

Trade my 1909-S VDB for your New E-Trac

Now if you guys want to see some fakes, here they are:

Current Ebay Auction #1: 170298022761 (look at the bottom serif on the "S"; it's a dead giveaway just like the pic that tab-nabit posted inside his link. NO RETURNS!)
Current Ebay Auction:#2: 250361340677 (save as above; I notified Ebay about this coin when it was first listed but it appears they will let this auction run. No return privilege defined.)

I'll post some good pics of all known die states later tonight.
 
The four known die states:

iD1122FB3-5238-4AAB-AEBF-54C49EFCAE3A.jpg

i062D0656-7F6F-4448-A244-ABB39F6C5732.jpg

i2302F874-7834-4A8E-9CA3-D999BB6B71D7.jpg

iF0486DAC-73CB-4CB2-84E9-408EF204E06B.jpg


Mine is the first (centered) and is somewhat rarer than the others, but does not command any premium over the others.

You might want to save these pics for the future if you ever plan to buy/sell/trade this coin.
 
Take a look,Ray.
http://search-completed.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=so&sbrftog=1&dfsp=32&satitle=&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&sadis=200&fpos=64744&sabfmts=1&saobfmts=insif&fis=2&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&seller=1&sass=kartunistzz&fsop=32%26fsoo%3D2
 
I'm not implying it is or is not fake - didn't say either way.
Only provided a link.
You did state "Guaranteed genuine by any grading service." . To me means it has not been graded yet - yet many have suggested it, yet no response to their suggestions which are sound suggestions.
Only provided some information that may be useful to some - So I'm implying :shrug:
Go figure
 
No harm, no foul.

I sell a few coins on Ebay most weeks: mostly key date copper coins like 1877 Indian Heads, 1909-s Indian Heads, 1909-S VDB, 1914-d, 1955 and 1972 Double Lie Lincolns. I sell some "certified" (in slabs) and many more uncertified as I can usually pick up uncertified (and GENUINE) key dates coins at a discount compared to certified coins. Most importantly, I can turn a certified coin around faster than buying an uncertified coin and sending it to a major grading service to be certified.

For certain, I often do not recover the cost of certification of a key date lincoln cent, especially if they are circulated. Let's take the SVDB penny I'm currently auctioning. I would send it to PCGS as they command the highest premium for certified coins. It will cost me $30 to certify and an additional $120 for four additional coins that I currently do not need certified (they require 5 coins minimum). Then the postage for the entire package will run near $25 and the return postage back will cost an additional $30. So to get this coin certified will cost me a little over $200, and I'll wait 4-6 weeks (although I'll get four others certified at the same time). And there is always a chance with PCGS that a nice coin will come back having "environmental damage" (undesirable toning) or "questionable color" (whatever that means).

ANACS will allow me to certify one coin, but the certification carries virtually no premium compared to a raw coin. Early small ANACS holders were from a time period when the grading standards were looser (over graded) and those certified coins are difficult to sell at the stated grade on the holder. I have cracked out many Lincoln pennies that were being held in old ANACS holders and sold them "raw" with a good picture for a premium price. In fact, the 1914-d penny I'm selling along with the SVDB was cracked out of an old ANACS holder!

I've owned many, many dates of each of the coins listed above and have copied, or purchased, every reference material that I have ever found dealing with the peculiar die state of the genuine coins, and the characteristics of the known fakes of each. I've photographed counterfeit coins of each type, some very deceiving ones indeed, and have documented each for reference (Thankfully, all the new Chinese counterfeits are poor reproductions of the genuine examples, but they still fool inexperienced folks every week.)

So I know with a very high degree of confidence that this SVDB is real and I consequently know that I have virtually no risk of having a coin returned to me because it was later found to be a counterfeit. I've been selling on Ebay since 1998 and have never had a coin returned to me that was subsequently found to be a fake.

Lastly, my pictures on Ebay are some of the best you'll find on that site, and I always can take a better picture of a raw coin that one sitting in a plastic holder. The experienced collectors know all the characteristics of a genuine coin, like me, and can discern them from my photos. Plus there's always the return privilege (that you rarely find with the guys peddling counterfeits) if you don't like the color, look, or the Wifey finds out what you spent for that penny. All these factors help me sell on Ebay and keep my 100% rating.

Hope that helps clarify my position.
 
Given that no grading has been done there is the possibility that even you could have been holding a counterfeit all these years I have to agree with tab-nabit. I would wonder why it has not been checked already as its maximum value could be supported by experts good for both buyer and seller. Dan
 
Daniel A. said:
I would wonder why it has not been checked already as its maximum value could be supported by experts good for both buyer and seller. Dan

For the obvious cost and timing reasons I described earlier. I know it is genuine so it does no "good" for me as a seller. Some buyers will not bid on raw coins so I will lose them, but many other knowledgable collectors will see that it is genuine and bid accordingly. It is possible that the new buyer will send this coin for certification for his own peace of mind, or whatever reason he/she may have. I encourage that if that is what they want to do, as I know I won't have to deal with the coin coming back labeled "counterfeit".
 
Congrats on the selling price - now go get your Etrac and have some cash to spare!


w
 
Thanks Wayne!

When the bidding spiked early, I went to a local dealer and tried out an E-trac that he had. I didn't like it! I couldn't believe that I could get high tones on iron, contrary to what I heard on my old Sovereign. The dealer said that that was "normal" and that I'd learn to use it that way. Not for me. Shame on you Minelab.

I ended up picking up a used F75 and will try that along side an Explorer II, when I can find a nice one of those. It should arrive towards the end of the week. I really like the soft, HIGH tones for copper and silver and the low grunts for iron. I've got no time under my belt with the Fisher yet, but, In the end, I'll just keep one.

Anyone want a nice XF, 1914-d penny? (big pics available)
 
Top