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I think I may have asked you on another forum but these mods can't be done to an original TDI?To give the SL model all the performance of the Pro, and maybe even better, you want three mods. First is the 16v battery pack. Those are no longer being sold, so you have to make your own, or find somebody to make you one. I just finished my second, so I have a backup. Second mod is to remove capacitors C20 and C21, which are .47ufd, and replace with .22ufd caps. What that does is increase the allowable sweep speed on tiny nuggets. As sold the SL requires a really slow sweep speed to see the smallest nuggets. Sweep too fast, and you won't detect them. Sweep really slowly, and there they are.That's part of why the SL has such smooth threshold. By changing those caps, you get slightly more variance in the threshold, but a much larger range of sweep speeds without losing the sensitivity to small gold. The third mod is to remove capacitor C56. Also removing diodes D20, and D21, and installing a jumper across two of the three terminals on D21's location on the board.. These last mods also increase the sensitivity. For the squeamish...just removing C56, and leaving the diodes in, will help. Do all these and your SL:will be every bit as good as the PRO, with less weight, and a smoother threshold. One guy I know just pulled 44 cents at a depth of 24" from a beach in Florida. He was using an * X 14 coil. The Whites factory, on the new Special Edition TDI has done the third mod. They removed D20, D21, and C56, and put the jumper on D21's location. I've heard, but don't know for a fact, that all SL's made after 2015 have had the third mod done.Only way to know is to take a look at the circuit board.
Here's a video showing the effect of the second mod...swapping the sweep speed caps:SS mod effects
Hello Jim in Idaho,,Nice work. That's identical to the one I built a couple of months ago. I installed the battery management board right between the batteries. Works good. I now have two of these....the first was purchased from Reidman. You're going to be surprised at the results of the added voltage. I use a buck converter as a charger. That allows me to set the max voltage on the charge. I generally limit it to 16.0v, rather than the typical max of 16.8v. By doing that, the pack will last longer, and it protects the detector from a possible over-voltage situation. You should also do the two mods that Reg Sniff suggested. Really makes the SL come alive.
Oh yeah....you'll have to find a THIN material for the cover on your new pack. I used a section of plastic milk jug, but a piece of vinyl notebook cover works OK, too.
Ok so depending on the board I may be able to do this upgrade I will check it out.No. There are similarities between the circuits, but they are not identical. The main issue with the originals was the warbley threshold. The issue with the SL was a slow sweep speed for tiny targets, and lack of sensitivity.
I know absolutely nothing about any of the Tesoros. I don't even know if the Tejon is a PI. Increasing the voltage only benefits pulse-induction machines. Does nothing for VLF detectors. But VLF's can benefit from switching to rechargeable li-ion batteries, but only because they're rechargeable, and you don't have to buy batteries.Hello Jim in Idaho,,
Do you know anything about the Tesoros Tejon ?
Would doing this battery upgrade be good and safe for the Tejon ? Getting tired of eating AA's.
Thanks for the reply Jim.I know absolutely nothing about any of the Tesoros. I don't even know if the Tejon is a PI. Increasing the voltage only benefits pulse-induction machines. Does nothing for VLF detectors. But VLF's can benefit from switching to rechargeable li-ion batteries, but only because they're rechargeable, and you don't have to buy batteries.