Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

CTX3030 stock lower shaft...upside down?

Tony

Member
Can the lower shaft be inverted to reduce cable strain?

I have tried and failed to get it to line up at the control box end ?????

Thanks,
Tony
 
Be sure you're not trying to put it together with the coil pointing in the wrong direction in relation to the stem....
 
If nothing else take a pic of what you've got going on and show us the issue. One of the GREAT things about the CTX vs E series....no shoelaces!!
 
I understand your concern, that hard 90 degree turn on the cable gland followed by another 90 degree turn up the shaft seems a bit much. I don't believe inverting the shaft would change much though and I have only heard of a couple cable issues at the coil over the years. As far as is it possible to lock the shaft in, let us know.
 
I think this is what OP is asking. The coil cable is bents 90 degrees when you lay the CTX down and the coil is flat against the ground. If you turn the lower shaft 180 degrees then the coil wire won't bend as much. I tried, but can't turn around the lower shaft.

Here's a video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=opHR24w5SRI
 
Yep that is what I am trying to achieve........I feel like a doofus because I am still trying. :rage:
 
Remove lower shaft from coil
Remove coil from shaft or force cable down shaft a couple of inches
Obtain hacksaw with 32 tooth blade
Remove cam at end of shaft with back and forth motion of hacksaw
Problem solved
 
[left said:
sprchng][/left]
Remove lower shaft from coil
Remove coil from shaft or force cable down shaft a couple of inches
Obtain hacksaw with 32 tooth blade
Remove cam at end of shaft with back and forth motion of hacksaw
Problem solved

:rofl:
 
:rofl: x2
 
Rainydays said:
Here's a video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=opHR24w5SRI

And an interesting video it is.

Good one Sprchng!
 
Seems I might have :rofl: to soon. It is a very interesting video. I do think sawing the tube is a little overboard though. Maybe a few strokes on the cam with a flat file would work as well. Gonna keep an eye on this one.
 
There was recently a thread here concerning making shafts from a piece of 3/4 schedule 40 PVC. It works quite well ,,,,, a $1.00 fix for a $175.00 dollar shaft. The cam is totally unnecessary and really just a PITA in all honesty. I can live with a slight degree of flexibility for the cost savings and a 30 minute project with a belt sander , a drill and a little electricians tape.
 
"Can the lower shaft be inverted to reduce cable strain?

I have tried and failed to get it to line up at the control box end ?????"

I have to admit that the picture in my brain was the coil attachment end of the shaft being inserted into the upper shaft, so the coil wires would come out of the center of the shaft. In the video that was in one of the posts the lower shaft seems to have a different attachment yoke than my factory and Anderson shafts. I appears to me to be about 4-5 inches long and a very large opening for the coil to come out. And the coil Minelab emblem is facing back toward the operator, vs away, The little alignment knob on the rim of the factory shaft I have has worn down so that it is barely there, so I can insert mine in any position inside the upper shaft. Therefore I can essentially 'invert' the coil. To keep from removing the lower shaft (or doing a cable pull with string in one video) for a coil change I got two more Anderson shafts and a coil change takes maybe a minute.

But, all that said, the flexing of the coil is going to result in wear, and possible tearing, on the coil wires where they enter the coil. Two of my 3 had that issue.
 
Just got my replacement coil this morning because my stock one had a break in the strain relief where the coil wire goes into the coil...exactly what you're talking about.
 
Top