Mel Parker
Member
Used a little different wiring technique from what CH was using. (I never hipmount my unit.)
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Decided to put a Pin Point trigger Switch on the Sovereign.
- Thread starter Mel Parker
- Start date
Mel,a good idea with the trigger on the handle.I think the Sunray is setting too high.My suggestion keep the trigger on the handle and move the meter forward.LOL,Sovereign enthusiast are looking in horror at the screws placed in the grand old Sunray meter.
Mel Parker
Member
The location of the meter is perfect for me. I tried several locations but found this to have the best visibility, similiar to the Whites configuration. As for the Sovereign guys I don't think they really care that much.
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Very nice work Mel, Your always one up on the boys.......joe
Mel Parker
Member
I pop riveted a bracket to the inside of the handle that extends up through the meter.
Critterhunter
New member
Mel, glad I could help with explaining a few blind spots in the schematic's function. Looks great. I used a smaller stereo jack/plug which I listed a part # for in the schematic/pictorial. I don't hip or chest mount either unless I'm water hunting, at which time I don't need the remote PP, so I just unplug it from the box and that stays with the land rig/meter, where as I have the stock shaft set up for water hunting. I think a remote PP helps re-sale value on these Sovereigns myself. That's the first and most major draw back to people looking into buying one, besides the weight of the stock shaft/battery.
I've had a few PMs from people asking if the schematic will work with older Sovereigns. No, though I think the Elite (?) has the same switch combinations, and if it does then it will work with it. Older Sovereigns with different switches need a different set up. I think if you search through some old threads on the web you can find one or two of those. I may throw a schematic together for those models and post it as well down the road.
I've had a few PMs from people asking if the schematic will work with older Sovereigns. No, though I think the Elite (?) has the same switch combinations, and if it does then it will work with it. Older Sovereigns with different switches need a different set up. I think if you search through some old threads on the web you can find one or two of those. I may throw a schematic together for those models and post it as well down the road.
Mel Parker
Member
I didn't use your schematic, I used a different approach.
Critterhunter
New member
You mean I did all that explaining on the phone for nothing. 
I thought when we talked you wanted to use the same wiring but a 3 position switch to allow full function? If that's the case then all you'd have to do is use a switch that has a no-contact position. Same wiring, but then it requires the stock switch to be set a specific way to obtain all three modes. I don't see a need for being able to flip between Iron Mask On and Off on the fly, and it could get confusing to people as to which mode the remote PP is in. I like being able to just look at the stock switches to know which mode the GT will go into when the remote PP is flipped either way, but to each his own.
Really there are probably about 5 different approaches people could take to wire something up. Some are at risk to doing things they shouldn't connection wise, while others limit function of the stock switches. Most people only want to flip between one of the two Iron Mask modes and the All Metal mode. Far less confusing and with no special switch positions needed for full function control, unless you wire the jack up to the internal switch differently, which would then not require a specific setting of the stock switch to obtain all three modes. Many ways to do it.
Initially I think I posted an even simpler one than the way I finalized, but again that way requires specific switch settings on the GT to function. I just like being able to set the two stock switches to what modes I want and then be able to quickly toggle between them via a two position switch, with no interference from the remote PP or the two stock switches whether it's plugged in or not. It's just that the remote PP will bypass the stock switch and go into whatever all metal mode (pp, fixed, or track) that you have the other stock GT switch set to when used. A push button would work well too far this.
Either way, good job and glad you figured out what you wanted to do. I'd love to see your schematic so I can see what you did and the pros/cons there of.
Here's how mine works....
Set the stock switch to Iron Mask On or OFF.
Set the All Metal switch to either PP, Tracked, or Fixed.
Now the PP switch will toggle between whatever two modes you have those switches set at, and the stock switches retain full function whether the remote PP is plugged in or not.
No possible way to hurt the GT. In fact, you could throw the stock Discrimination switch to All Metal mode and then flip back and fourth with the remote PP from All Metal to All Metal in effect. Mainly I'd advice anybody coming up with new ways to wire it to make darn sure that the stock switch can't be in one mode while the remote PP tries to force it into another. That might do something bad to the GT, as the circuit board was never intended to have two of those pins (modes) connected at the same time.
Again, looks good. I was thinking of installing the switch inside the meter but for re-sale value of the meter I didn't want to do that. Besides, some people like to use the machine without the meter here and there and would lose remote PP control if they took it off.
I thought when we talked you wanted to use the same wiring but a 3 position switch to allow full function? If that's the case then all you'd have to do is use a switch that has a no-contact position. Same wiring, but then it requires the stock switch to be set a specific way to obtain all three modes. I don't see a need for being able to flip between Iron Mask On and Off on the fly, and it could get confusing to people as to which mode the remote PP is in. I like being able to just look at the stock switches to know which mode the GT will go into when the remote PP is flipped either way, but to each his own.Really there are probably about 5 different approaches people could take to wire something up. Some are at risk to doing things they shouldn't connection wise, while others limit function of the stock switches. Most people only want to flip between one of the two Iron Mask modes and the All Metal mode. Far less confusing and with no special switch positions needed for full function control, unless you wire the jack up to the internal switch differently, which would then not require a specific setting of the stock switch to obtain all three modes. Many ways to do it.
Initially I think I posted an even simpler one than the way I finalized, but again that way requires specific switch settings on the GT to function. I just like being able to set the two stock switches to what modes I want and then be able to quickly toggle between them via a two position switch, with no interference from the remote PP or the two stock switches whether it's plugged in or not. It's just that the remote PP will bypass the stock switch and go into whatever all metal mode (pp, fixed, or track) that you have the other stock GT switch set to when used. A push button would work well too far this.
Either way, good job and glad you figured out what you wanted to do. I'd love to see your schematic so I can see what you did and the pros/cons there of.
Here's how mine works....
Set the stock switch to Iron Mask On or OFF.
Set the All Metal switch to either PP, Tracked, or Fixed.
Now the PP switch will toggle between whatever two modes you have those switches set at, and the stock switches retain full function whether the remote PP is plugged in or not.
No possible way to hurt the GT. In fact, you could throw the stock Discrimination switch to All Metal mode and then flip back and fourth with the remote PP from All Metal to All Metal in effect. Mainly I'd advice anybody coming up with new ways to wire it to make darn sure that the stock switch can't be in one mode while the remote PP tries to force it into another. That might do something bad to the GT, as the circuit board was never intended to have two of those pins (modes) connected at the same time.
Again, looks good. I was thinking of installing the switch inside the meter but for re-sale value of the meter I didn't want to do that. Besides, some people like to use the machine without the meter here and there and would lose remote PP control if they took it off.
Critterhunter
New member
Darn time limit on editing. Here's a re-post of the above message with I hope much clearer content on certain things. Also eliminated some of the redundant stuff. I get more questions about how the remote PP functions than anything else, so here's yet another attempt to clearify.
You mean I did all that explaining on the phone for nothing. I thought when we talked you wanted to use the same wiring but a 3 position switch to allow full function? If that's the case then all you'd have to do is use a switch that has a no-contact position. Same wiring, but then it requires the stock switch to be set a specific way to obtain all three modes. The stock switch would need to be set to Disc Iron Mask Off. Throw the remote PP one way and it's in Iron On (nothing connected internaly in the remote PP switch), throw it the other and it's in Iron Mask Off (Middle and Left stock switch pin connections...this is the position of the remote PP when the stock switch isn't being bypassed, throw it the third and it's in one of the All Metal Modes). It could be wired to retain all 3 functions via the remote PP without having to set the stock switch in Iron Mask OFF if you wanted all three modes via the remote PP, but I don't see a need for being able to flip between Iron Mask On and Off on the fly. It could get confusing to people as to which mode the remote PP is in. I like being able to just look at the stock switches to know which mode the GT will go into when the remote PP is flipped either way, but to each his own.
Really there are probably about 5 different approaches people could take to wire something up. Some are at risk to doing things they shouldn't connection wise, while others limit function of the stock switches. Most people only want to flip between one of the two Iron Mask modes and the All Metal mode. Far less confusing and with no special switch positions needed for full function control, unless you wire the jack up to the internal switch differently, which would then not require a specific setting of the stock switch to obtain all three modes. Many ways to do it.
Initially I think I posted an even simpler one than the way I finalized, but again that way requires specific switch settings on the GT to function. I just like being able to set the two stock switches to what modes I want and then be able to quickly toggle between them via a two position switch, with no interference from the remote PP or the two stock switches whether it's plugged in or not. It's just that the remote PP will bypass the stock switch and go into whatever all metal mode (pp, fixed, or track) that you have the other stock GT switch set to when used. A push button would work well too far this.
Either way, good job and glad you figured out what you wanted to do. I'd love to see your schematic so I can see what you did and the pros/cons there of.
Here's how mine works....
Set the stock switch to Iron Mask On or OFF.
Set the All Metal switch to either PP, Tracked, or Fixed.
Now the PP switch will toggle between whatever two modes you have those switches set at, and the stock switches retain full function whether the remote PP is plugged in or not.
No possible way to hurt the GT. In fact, you could throw the stock Discrimination switch to All Metal mode and then flip back and fourth with the remote PP from All Metal to All Metal in effect, having the remote PP and the stock switch both causing the GT to go All Metal from either source.
Mainly I'd advice anybody coming up with new ways to wire it to make darn sure that the stock switch can't be in say Iron Mask Off mode while the remote PP tries to force it into All Metal without the stock switch being bypassed when the remote PP is flipped. That might do something bad to the GT, as the circuit board was never intended to have two of those pins (modes) connected at the same time trying to force it into both modes at once.
Again, looks good. I was thinking of installing the switch inside the meter but for re-sale value of the meter I didn't want to do that. Besides, some people like to use the machine without the meter here and there and would lose remote PP control if they took it off.
You mean I did all that explaining on the phone for nothing.
I thought when we talked you wanted to use the same wiring but a 3 position switch to allow full function? If that's the case then all you'd have to do is use a switch that has a no-contact position. Same wiring, but then it requires the stock switch to be set a specific way to obtain all three modes. The stock switch would need to be set to Disc Iron Mask Off. Throw the remote PP one way and it's in Iron On (nothing connected internaly in the remote PP switch), throw it the other and it's in Iron Mask Off (Middle and Left stock switch pin connections...this is the position of the remote PP when the stock switch isn't being bypassed, throw it the third and it's in one of the All Metal Modes). It could be wired to retain all 3 functions via the remote PP without having to set the stock switch in Iron Mask OFF if you wanted all three modes via the remote PP, but I don't see a need for being able to flip between Iron Mask On and Off on the fly. It could get confusing to people as to which mode the remote PP is in. I like being able to just look at the stock switches to know which mode the GT will go into when the remote PP is flipped either way, but to each his own.Really there are probably about 5 different approaches people could take to wire something up. Some are at risk to doing things they shouldn't connection wise, while others limit function of the stock switches. Most people only want to flip between one of the two Iron Mask modes and the All Metal mode. Far less confusing and with no special switch positions needed for full function control, unless you wire the jack up to the internal switch differently, which would then not require a specific setting of the stock switch to obtain all three modes. Many ways to do it.
Initially I think I posted an even simpler one than the way I finalized, but again that way requires specific switch settings on the GT to function. I just like being able to set the two stock switches to what modes I want and then be able to quickly toggle between them via a two position switch, with no interference from the remote PP or the two stock switches whether it's plugged in or not. It's just that the remote PP will bypass the stock switch and go into whatever all metal mode (pp, fixed, or track) that you have the other stock GT switch set to when used. A push button would work well too far this.
Either way, good job and glad you figured out what you wanted to do. I'd love to see your schematic so I can see what you did and the pros/cons there of.
Here's how mine works....
Set the stock switch to Iron Mask On or OFF.
Set the All Metal switch to either PP, Tracked, or Fixed.
Now the PP switch will toggle between whatever two modes you have those switches set at, and the stock switches retain full function whether the remote PP is plugged in or not.
No possible way to hurt the GT. In fact, you could throw the stock Discrimination switch to All Metal mode and then flip back and fourth with the remote PP from All Metal to All Metal in effect, having the remote PP and the stock switch both causing the GT to go All Metal from either source.
Mainly I'd advice anybody coming up with new ways to wire it to make darn sure that the stock switch can't be in say Iron Mask Off mode while the remote PP tries to force it into All Metal without the stock switch being bypassed when the remote PP is flipped. That might do something bad to the GT, as the circuit board was never intended to have two of those pins (modes) connected at the same time trying to force it into both modes at once.
Again, looks good. I was thinking of installing the switch inside the meter but for re-sale value of the meter I didn't want to do that. Besides, some people like to use the machine without the meter here and there and would lose remote PP control if they took it off.
Mel Parker
Member
I don't have much time because I'm going to a High School football game tonight, but essentially what I did was wire the remote and on board switches in parallel with a Normally Closed contact in series with the center terminal of the All Metal/ Disc on board switch. This allows the unit to work normally until you plug in the remote switch. When you do this the series contact is opened and control is shifted to the remote switch. When I pull the trigger I'm in all metal, the center position is Disc and the forward position is Iron Mask Off. My phone call to you was trying to figure out how the Track/Fix/PP was involved with your mod. Now I understand that it's not. Thanks for your input.
