fisher f4 f5 f70

[mudpuppy]

I hear you 5x5 Charlie! As far as using a 75 for this, if thats all you got, dumb 'er down and rock and roll! No super clad man would ever notch out anything!...a monster cladder wants as many coins in the shortest time possible..plus all the gold and silver along the way...

Problem is, nobody buys a 75 for a dedicated clad grabbing rig?..Thats like driving a semi down to the store to pick up a loaf of bread, or shooting a squirrel with an elephant gun....

Whereas a 70 is about as perfect for this task right out of the box as a guy can get..(coins and jewelry)...with the semi's power to spare if needed....as far as the initial spend of course, a guy can take a 70 up into the higher demands of deep old silver, and it will hold its own in field against a 75, without the backlight, sweep a beach, totlot all that....(the whole ROI thing coming into play here)..the F70 has always been considered a 'sleeper' and gets no respect...

Anyway..For recommending the optimum out of the box rig for a clad grabber, my input is a bit prejudiced....the F70 was my very first ever detector, so theres some mad love here, one which I will defend against all attacks and aspersions...its a balance of gear, focus, physical conditioning, and intent...a fellow must first get a really fast light rig, hunt by tones, use a screwdriver, be relatively spry enough to do a couple hundred coins in a few hours...

Yep, those Sacs and Susan B's sound and read just like a Q and are always a welcomed sight...swinging a 70 is akin to hunting big Mulies or Polar bears with a 22-250...super accurate, fast and deadly, kills it all from a snowshoe hare to a Polar bear and everything in between..its a matter of ballistics and shot placement...I guess think about it this way...a 7mm mag and a 22-250 share the exact same trajectory, the 7mm has more downrange punch, but for clad, thats not an issue...I've owned and reloaded both...so heres the deal...the F70 is a simple, fast, accurate, and powerful all around weapon...Sure a F75 could easily do the same thing, but the damn reloading expenses for a few Q's soon make it unprofitable!

Not to mention the mess a 7mag makes out of smaller game! The 70 will amply tip over a big target in the right hands within range..Holy crap! did I run far afield with analogies and metaphors here or what! Get yerself a 70 here Foxhunter...I know you probably understand the whole ballistics thing....

FWIW....52 gr, sierra, BTHP match, at @3750fps stuffed with Winchester 760 ball, blowing a TalleyHo rabbit call (DP tones) used in conjunction with a Quakerboy crow call, (thats your 'screwdriver')..sub MOA is the F70 set up for clad/jewelry all day long....consider a Harris bipod to be the 11" dd coil, and have a Merry Christmas wiping out an entire Prairie dog town, a truck full of 'yotes, or a Polar bear if one happens to come along...! ..
Mud.

 

[will*in*cali]

In the above post regarding "reassigning" a value to the pulltab , the way it was done on the Xterra... is there any way possible of doing this or something similarn the F5 ?

I dont mind digging square pulltabs while searching for gold, but im up to my ears in them now.

 

[MarkCZ]

In the above post regarding "reassigning" a value to the pulltab , the way it was done on the Xterra... is there any way possible of doing this or something similarn the F5 ?

I dont mind digging square pulltabs while searching for gold, but im up to my ears in them now.

No! plus pull tabs can take in a really wide area because they come in different sizes, get bent, the beaver tails jump around on the meter if the tab is gone, if the tab is curled up. So, in the low conductor range mankind has created his own nightmare again! To hunt jewelry I've found that it takes a mental transformation from Tabs= Junk to Tabs = Good Stuff. Its not that I want the tabs, but my thinking is if I can sniff them out and not dig the JUNK iron then everyone is one more closer to a Gold ring!

Mark

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

Tee hee. I used to hot load the 110 gr Hornady hollow-point in my .270 Winchester for woodchucks. Was never a question to when you connected. ;-)

One of the things i do with my detector is to go reclaim fired lead from round balls ( I shoot flintlocks). Toss them in the pot and remelt the balls.

I used to work beside a town park when I first got my F-75 and on my lunchbreak I'd go out and sweep clad up. Nothing wrong with that.

But I do want silver, and jewelry is never unwelcome.

 

[HighPlainsHunter]

That reassignment was just for a particular square tab, not all tabs. We can only wish there was no such thing...

Also, Mark is right. I believe I read somewhere that there are about 100 different tabs due to their various alloy makeup...

 

[GroundScanner]

It all breaks down to if you want gold , dig the tabs. There is also many other thinks besides gold and tabs. Also dig the foil , a lot of other stuff beside foil come up. One never knows . GS

 

[MarkCZ]

That reassignment was just for a particular square tab, not all tabs. We can only wish there was no such thing...

Also, Mark is right. I believe I read somewhere that there are about 100 different tabs due to their various alloy makeup...

And Size!
Those beaver tail tabs were used on just more than soda and beer cans!
Potted meat,
Vienna Sausages,
Peanut snack cans,
and some of those are still in use today.

At the conception of the beaver tail tabs they were called "Pull & Toss Tabs" and that's exactly what everybody did with them, they were small, harmless and people just pitched them on the ground, I doubt that 1% of them when the product was opened ended up in the trash. I still find these things sometimes hooked together to form short chains. On canned beverages the pull & toss were in use from 1965 until 1975, then came the square tabs.

At the conception of the square tabs they were called "Stay Tabs" someone finely figured out that the pull & toss tabs had become a MAJOR litter problem, so hey! they made the "Stay Tab" litter problem solved!! NOT! most folks were so used to pull and toss that they had a habit of tossing the older tabs, so they opened the can and then broke the stay tab off and tossed it on the ground. On canned beverages the stay tab came to be right after 1975 and are still in use today.

Both tabs in there existence took on several design changes, the early pull & toss was a little dinkier and often times the ring would come lose from the tab before it pulled the tab off the can. So, a little later on the tab was beefed up a good bit and functioned much better. and yes! I've heard the same thing about some alloy changes in them over the years. The most problematic of the tabs is the tail of the pull & toss tabs, when left attached to the ring they would curl up, well of course each curl is as different as my finger prints vs HighPlainsHunter's" . These tails messes with the detection field coming off the coil in sometimes very strange ways, some common problems I have them is,
Throwing the pinpoint off,
ID'in much higher than they should for a tab,
And they normally have an excellent audio report that makes it very difficult to hunt the lower conductive range and work around them.

And don't confuse the modern pull rings from a planters peanut can with one that is from the MUCH older beverage cans, most of the time the peanut pull rings will stay attached to the lid so they are pretty easy to tell. The reason why I mentioned this is because identifying the early pull & toss tabs is one way I judge depth and age of an area. Those dinky pull & toss tabs at a 5" (any average depth you find them) average speaks "1965 to maybe 1967" If I know the area has had public use back to 1935 then I can get an idea of the depth of the silver and the depth of the oldest fresh drops.
Example, a 1935 dime dropped in 1935 would have very little wear on it, making it a 1935 fresh drop, the more wear it has the more upward towards the pull & toss tabs it will be.

Mark

 

[MarkCZ]

Yep, those Sacs and Susan B's sound and read just like a Q and are always a welcomed sight...swinging a 70 is akin to hunting big Mulies or Polar bears with a 22-250...super accurate, fast and deadly, kills it all from a snowshoe hare to a Polar bear and everything in between..its a matter of ballistics and shot placement...I guess think about it this way...a 7mm mag and a 22-250 share the exact same trajectory, the 7mm has more downrange punch, but for clad, thats not an issue...I've owned and reloaded both...so heres the deal...the F70 is a simple, fast, accurate, and powerful all around weapon...Sure a F75 could easily do the same thing, but the damn reloading expenses for a few Q's soon make it unprofitable!

Not to mention the mess a 7mag makes out of smaller game! The 70 will amply tip over a big target in the right hands within range..Holy crap! did I run far afield with analogies and metaphors here or what! Get yerself a 70 here Foxhunter...I know you probably understand the whole ballistics thing....

FWIW....52 gr, sierra, BTHP match, at @3750fps stuffed with Winchester 760 ball, blowing a TalleyHo rabbit call (DP tones) used in conjunction with a Quakerboy crow call, (thats your 'screwdriver')..sub MOA is the F70 set up for clad/jewelry all day long....consider a Harris bipod to be the 11" dd coil, and have a Merry Christmas wiping out an entire Prairie dog town, a truck full of 'yotes, or a Polar bear if one happens to come along...! ..
Mud.

220 Swift 26" fluted heavy barrel, Sierra 55gr 4000fps fantastic separation! Notice the rear "Badger Brother Mono Pod" my own design, yes, its mounted in the stock.

Mud, the more I read about your experience with the F70 the more I like the idea of having one.

Mark

 

[GroundScanner]

Mud , I have been paying attention to the DP tones on the F70 and you are right on. This summer I will be trying them out. I think I can get use to them big time. GS

 

[REVIER]

I never did get the hang of DP tones, but then again I rarely use it.
I can say I have found a ton of clad, older and silver coins and much more than my share of silver and especially gold jewelry by using all metal, 1, 1F, 2F and 4H tones.
I will try to remember to use DP a little more this season...if the ground ever thaws out.

 

[MarkCZ]

You can very easily snipe just Q's with the F70 using DP tones and no notch whatsoever...even though the 70 has notch and all that, I have never used it...on account of I want to find the 'lane' and all the other coins are a reference guide to that coin heavy spot...I've had many fine 100+Q days using DP..

dP: DELTA PITCH This setting produces a tone whose pitch varies in relation to the visual ID
number -- the higher the ID, the higher the pitch. Good for relic hunting. This setting is
also useful in areas with a high concentration of steel bottle caps. Coins will produce a
fairly constant pitch as you sweep back and forth. Bottle caps produce inconsistent
tones, often with a squawk at the beginning of the sound.

"Mud" am I right in that the DP tones doesn't step or use segments in the audio range, what I mean by that is that the tone starts out LOW for Iron (low conductor) and as the conductive range for the targets goes up the tone just keeps increasing? If so then the DP tones is what I would call a little old school in that many detectors in the early days operated by default that way and that was the only way they did. I remember my old Teknetics 9000/B did that, I always like that type of tone response. Going back to that for me would be sweet!

Better picture of my Swift! (yes! its heavy)

Mark

 

[MarkCZ]

Those beaver tail tabs were used on just more than soda and beer cans!
Potted meat,
Vienna Sausages,
Peanut snack cans,
and some of those are still in use today.

At the conception of the beaver tail tabs they were called "Pull & Toss Tabs" and that's exactly what everybody did with them, they were small, harmless and people just pitched them on the ground, I doubt that 1% of them when the product was opened ended up in the trash. I still find these things sometimes hooked together to form short chains. On canned beverages the pull & toss were in use from 1965 until 1975, then came the square tabs.

At the conception of the square tabs they were called "Stay Tabs" someone finely figured out that the pull & toss tabs had become a MAJOR litter problem, so hey! they made the "Stay Tab" litter problem solved!! NOT! most folks were so used to pull and toss that they had a habit of tossing the older tabs, so they opened the can and then broke the stay tab off and tossed it on the ground. On canned beverages the stay tab came to be right after 1975 and are still in use today.

Both tabs in there existence took on several design changes, the early pull & toss was a little dinkier and often times the ring would come lose from the tab before it pulled the tab off the can. So, a little later on the tab was beefed up a good bit and functioned much better. and yes! I've heard the same thing about some alloy changes in them over the years. The most problematic of the tabs is the tail of the pull & toss tabs, when left attached to the ring they would curl up, well of course each curl is as different as my finger prints vs HighPlainsHunter's" . These tails messes with the detection field coming off the coil in sometimes very strange ways, some common problems I have them is,
Throwing the pinpoint off,
ID'in much higher than they should for a tab,
And they normally have an excellent audio report that makes it very difficult to hunt the lower conductive range and work around them.

And don't confuse the modern pull rings from a planters peanut can with one that is from the MUCH older beverage cans, most of the time the peanut pull rings will stay attached to the lid so they are pretty easy to tell. The reason why I mentioned this is because identifying the early pull & toss tabs is one way I judge depth and age of an area. Those dinky pull & toss tabs at a 5" (any average depth you find them) average speaks "1965 to maybe 1967" If I know the area has had public use back to 1935 then I can get an idea of the depth of the silver and the depth of the oldest fresh drops.
Example, a 1935 dime dropped in 1935 would have very little wear on it, making it a 1935 fresh drop, the more wear it has the more upward towards the pull & toss tabs it will be.

I took a pictures of some of the tabs I have, I thought the picture would go good with the post covering the tabs. The earliest tab 1965 is on the left with no rivet and the dinky little ring, the far right tab is more towards the 1975 time period.

Mark

 

[still looking 52]

Nobody knows pull tabs better than my bro! When we go hunting he can date the area by the kind of pull tabs were finding which is quite helpful.

 

[MarkCZ]

Nobody knows pull tabs better than my bro! When we go hunting he can date the area by the kind of pull tabs were finding which is quite helpful.

Okay, its official I'm a "Tabologest"
One who studies the science of pull tabs and earned a degree in "Tabology"

On a large motorcycle forum I was part of before coming here I was ask to do a sticky thread for them titled "Oilology" I just check in on it and its still there and has a total of 122,000 views. LOL!

Mark

 

[still looking 52]

Nobody knows pull tabs better than my bro! When we go hunting he can date the area by the kind of pull tabs were finding which is quite helpful.

Okay, its official I'm a "Tabologest"
One who studies the science of pull tabs and earned a degree in "Tabology"

On a large motorcycle forum I was part of before coming here I was ask to do a sticky thread for them titled "Oilology" I just check in on it and its still there and has a total of 122,000 views. LOL!

Mark