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Please help me on tones

Davy crockett

New member
Hello everyone, I have a question about tones that I can't seem to understand. I'm using the combined tones. My question is this, I have 4 tone bins, (actually 5 if you count the junk bin)
On each bin does it mean that all items in that bin will emit the same tone. Or does each item in a bin have a different sound.

If all items have a different sound then what good is having 5 bins, you might as well run the 50 tone mode.

I'm learning much and finding plenty of coins, a ring and a wheat penny.

What am I missing on understanding tone bins
 
Each item that falls within a bin will give the tone you assigned to that bin.
 
You're not missing anything,it's exactly as you think. 5 bins,5 tones. You can change the pitch of each bin so 2 bins sound alike,such as nickels and high conductors...or change all the bins from 75 kHz-1200 kHz. Mix and match...or keep it stock,doesn't matter as long as you like what you hear. Each bin is adjustable in size and from 75-1200 kHz.
 
It's just personal preference.
Some people like the simplicity of target classification (and ease on the ears) of 4/5 tones.
Others like the extra 'nuances' you get with the 50 tones.

I like both.
I've got two programs I switch back and forth between, that are set up both ways.
Depending on what I'm hearing, I'll switch back and forth.
(Especially if I'm feeling overloaded.)

:)
mike
 
trojdor said:
It's just personal preference.
Some people like the simplicity of target classification (and ease on the ears) of 4/5 tones.
Others like the extra 'nuances' you get with the 50 tones.

I like both.
I've got two programs I switch back and forth between, that are set up both ways.
Depending on what I'm hearing, I'll switch back and forth.
(Especially if I'm feeling overloaded.)

:)
mike

+1
 
Ok great guys, great information

So a penny comes in usually at 12/38, so what I'm thinking is to start the last bin at 40, therefore if I get a solid hit at 12/38 or 12/39 then I know pretty much it's a penny. Am I thinking right?
 
Possibly! I caution you to not get all wrapped up in numbers, but look at the target location on the screen, the size of it, the shape of it, how does the tone sound, as I believe these features give a far better and more accurate quantity of information than the numbers! A 12-38 can be anything, Indian Head, corroded zinc, worn dime, crusty burned silver dime, anything, but a target located at 12-45/46, small, round, no legs or blurs, great pure tone, and repeats very well, then you look at the number. Even that can be an old copper spark plug washer! Bottom line is use ALL the bits of data being given you to make a decision on a target. All it is doing is adding up confidence is what is in the ground, but you still have to dig it up. To me, the numnbers are the least important thing displayed and often are affected by other nearby objects.
 
As trojdor said, its personal preference. I always run 50C and don't understand why anyone wouldn't want as much info to his ears as possible. Theres a LOT of data in that symphony and unless it is driving you crazy, I'd learn that language.

And as jas415 said, Do Not get too fixated on the numbers. They are an aid/clue (most of the time) but not the final word.
 
Do more tones help you guys hear more of what the target is, if so what are the clues in flute tones, i run combined as well
 
If I could use 50 conductive but still have the ferrous bin and be able to adjust the fe line, I might just give up combined for that.
 
As a beach hunter I use combined. It better separates the targets. I also use pitch hold or change the threshold to my hearing.On the beach you best no disc out pennies. .. u miss some very large gold.
 
Thanks for all info. I guess what I'm finding out is this: let's say you have a hit in the last tone bin of 12/45 or 12/36, it could either be a quarter or a piece tin foil, well by studying the screen you can see where the tin foil will show a large area of junk (red areas all scattered over a large area, whereas a quarter would show a nice tight round target. You would know to dig or not to dig, however I will say this, I've had some tin foil that actually did have a nice round target. It's kinda hard to tell but I'm learning, I'm at a park a lot and I'm digging pretty much everything,
 
mrwilburino said:
If I could use 50 conductive but still have the ferrous bin and be able to adjust the fe line, I might just give up combined for that.

There are other ways to skin a cat .
Set your first pattern ferrous coin 4 tone fe this will take the most accurate fe # of the target (it is reading the fe # ) pattern 2
Pattern 1 is the same except 32 to 35 is disc out .

So pattern 2 is wide open.
Pattern 1 has the disc from 32 to 35 so you can use the disc to be your fe line by adding more disc or less it won't let you hear the sound in the disc out area . But if you want to hear the sound just go to pattern 2 which will be or search pattern it will let you hear it all .

Since we are going by the fe # in this mode it will place the trace on the 12 line and the iron bin because we have a nail with it stacked target .Whereas high trash ground coin and low trash will put this in the iron bin because they are not separating the nail from the coin ferrous from non ferrous .Now on a blended target such as nail and coin if the coin is separate from the nail not touching or covered high trash ground coin and low trash will give a trace anywhere from 12.45 to 31.45 or 12.40 to 31.40 depending on the size of ferrous item that's with it . You can see by the #s that it's seeing the targets as one not separating them like ferrous coin by putting one target on the 12 line and one in the iron bin . Bin line is set 32 to 35 75hz everything else is set at 1000 hz

Now the reason I use ferrous coin is because it will separate a stacked target ( ferrous from coin) such as coin covering nail where you get no audio but ferrous coin will separate them and leave a trace in the iron bin and one on the 12 line if the iron dose not kill the coin signal .
You will not get this type of separation with any other mode (separates ferrous from non ferrous).

So my first patterns are to get rid of iron masking

Now my go to key will be 4 tone conductive high trash pattern 1 can stay as it is stock don't use .Pattern 2 is set with disc from 32 to 35 to get rid of nails and 12.47 to 12.50 on the right side .

The reason I use high trash is if there is a larger nail with the good target high trash will( sometimes ) ignore it and give me the reading from the coin target. You can still set your conduct bins where you like them tone wise . The reason I said sometime is if the signal from the rejected target is larger than the signal from the accepted target it will be blind to the accepted target even if they are within a inch or farther apart go's against what it says in the manual but I have proved this from my testing

So now I have a pattern to get rid of nails and have a pattern to get rid of a larger rejected item as long as it's disc out . So I get my fe #s from the first patterns the best the machine can do on fe #s
because it's reading fe #s and the second pattern is giving me my co#s blended or not but since it's set to read co#s I will get the best co#s.

As to 50 conduct you could use this as your second pattern but what I have found being in high density trash that 50 co tends to leave a longer signal not like the other profiles where it's just a beep going from one target to the next is harder to hear in 50 co because of the tail on the signal. It's easier to hear one beep to the next without the tail .But would work better where there is less trash density .

If you read what the separation modes do you can see my patterns works for me in iron now non-ferrous items don't bother me there going to show on the 12 line anyway .But it's the iron that messes everything up . Ground coin is a very good mode to use when your trying to separate the ground from the coin signal where the ground signal mineralization is stronger than the coin signal. One thing about low trash it has the best id of them all as long as you can get a signal separated from the other signal so don't be afraid to use it if you can't make heads or tails out of a target . sube
 
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