Find's Treasure Forums
Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
Click here to register!
Need Support Help?
Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you
Dug a 1909-S VDB Yesterday---Value??
- Thread starter taltexan
- Start date
Good idea. It doesn't hurt to set a reasonable reserve and give it a shot.
Heck, I'll start the bidding at $300 right away. That will at least save you the reserve fee. Just PM me.
You can pull the auction with 12hr to go and lose only the insertion fee. You won't reach the actual price but it may surprise you.
Heck, I'll start the bidding at $300 right away. That will at least save you the reserve fee. Just PM me.
You can pull the auction with 12hr to go and lose only the insertion fee. You won't reach the actual price but it may surprise you.
Thanks to everyone who posted. I appreciate all your opinions and information. I have no doubt that the coin is authentic but I will make a trip into Dallas and visit a couple of the larger coin dealers with coin to get their "hands on" opinion. Double Die I thank you for your offer and might consider it at a later date.
You don't need to go to Dallas for authentication, I am a professional numismatist....that baby is real! However it is a real good idea to go as every dealer has different clientel and needs. 1909 S VDB's are special no matter what but with the economy being tight, there are a few more in the market than normal...... but they all still move because of people "snapping up" key dates and better mid-level coins at the present pricing. Best of luck to you and hope you do well with this one...seems you are doing everything right.
a couple months ago I bought a corroded 1914-D off a man that had enviromental damage from being in the ground. I gave it a peroxide bath to remove the green listed it on ebay and it brought $120, and I paid $20 for it. Your coin is FAR BETTER condition. I bet you would be surprised what it would sell for on ebay. I am positive it would go way OVER $300 EASY
After all the input from the members I will not do anything to the coin as long as I own it.....I like the patina. My original intent was to remove any remaining dirt-debris that was stuck to the coin to be able to see more detail if possible. After a closer look with magnification I don't see enough to worry about. I am not a coin collector and this coin will be traded for circulated silver in the near future. Thank you all.
I think if you are going to sell it to someone other than a coin dealer, you'll benefit from having it authenticated. I say "authenticated" because from my experiences, it will likely not come back with a grade.
I sent two 77 IH cents in to have "graded" last year. The first one was sent to PCGS as the coin shop that handled it for me said it was the most "respected" in the industry. When the coin came back as "genuine and authentic" , but without an actual "grade", I was told that PCGS would not grade dug copper due to patina (they call it corrosion). The same coin shop told me that NGC would authenticate AND assign a grade to dug copper coins. So, I decided to send the second one to NGC. When it was returned, it had also been certified as authentic. But just as with PCGS, no grade was assigned. When I inquired as to why they didn't assign a grade, NGC also told me that they would not assign a grade to a "corroded" coin. And regardless of whether we look at patina as being corrosion or not, the grading services do. Since that time, I've dug another 77 IH cent and have decided to not send it in to be graded. I know it is authentic, due to the site it was retrieved. But it has more "corrosion" than either of the other two. And I can't see paying someone $70 to tell me what I already know. I suppose if it came down to where I really wanted to sell it, I might have to suck it up and pay to have it "authenticated" or deal directly with a coin shop who knows what to look for. HH Randy
Here are exerpts from wikipedia that describes how the grading services stack up.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coin_grading You will see there is a direct relationship between the market value of the coin and the company that does the grading.
On January 5, 2007, the Professional Numismatists Guild (PNG) published a more recent report about grading services and standards. The survey indicated the professional opinions of numismatists who buy and sell coins. No grading service was listed as "outstanding". PCGS and NGC were ranked as "superior". ANACS and ICG were ranked as "good".
As of 2010, there are two prevalent coin grading services: PCGS and NGC. ANACS is considered the third leading service, and is also quite credible, but does not carry the market acceptance or liquidity of the other two. ICG is the fourth largest. There are subtle variations in the grades assigned by each of these major services, and prospective buyers are encouraged to seek professional or expert advice before making any important rare coin purchases.
I sent two 77 IH cents in to have "graded" last year. The first one was sent to PCGS as the coin shop that handled it for me said it was the most "respected" in the industry. When the coin came back as "genuine and authentic" , but without an actual "grade", I was told that PCGS would not grade dug copper due to patina (they call it corrosion). The same coin shop told me that NGC would authenticate AND assign a grade to dug copper coins. So, I decided to send the second one to NGC. When it was returned, it had also been certified as authentic. But just as with PCGS, no grade was assigned. When I inquired as to why they didn't assign a grade, NGC also told me that they would not assign a grade to a "corroded" coin. And regardless of whether we look at patina as being corrosion or not, the grading services do. Since that time, I've dug another 77 IH cent and have decided to not send it in to be graded. I know it is authentic, due to the site it was retrieved. But it has more "corrosion" than either of the other two. And I can't see paying someone $70 to tell me what I already know. I suppose if it came down to where I really wanted to sell it, I might have to suck it up and pay to have it "authenticated" or deal directly with a coin shop who knows what to look for. HH Randy
Here are exerpts from wikipedia that describes how the grading services stack up.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coin_grading You will see there is a direct relationship between the market value of the coin and the company that does the grading.
On January 5, 2007, the Professional Numismatists Guild (PNG) published a more recent report about grading services and standards. The survey indicated the professional opinions of numismatists who buy and sell coins. No grading service was listed as "outstanding". PCGS and NGC were ranked as "superior". ANACS and ICG were ranked as "good".
As of 2010, there are two prevalent coin grading services: PCGS and NGC. ANACS is considered the third leading service, and is also quite credible, but does not carry the market acceptance or liquidity of the other two. ICG is the fourth largest. There are subtle variations in the grades assigned by each of these major services, and prospective buyers are encouraged to seek professional or expert advice before making any important rare coin purchases.
Jason in ID
Member
Holy smokes, that's a sweet find! Big congrats to ya!
I'm interested to hear what your local dealers offer.
The big auction sites charge 15% so the two recent ~$400 sales netted the sellers $340. A dealer will try to make a little profit so I see them offering $250-275.
Only ANACS will grade the coin; both NGC and PCGS will only label it as 'GENUINE'. But the numerical grading is irrelevant with a coin as yours.
I'll trade you 90% US silver if you ever wish to go that route, certified or not. I have plenty of that. Just PM me.
The big auction sites charge 15% so the two recent ~$400 sales netted the sellers $340. A dealer will try to make a little profit so I see them offering $250-275.
Only ANACS will grade the coin; both NGC and PCGS will only label it as 'GENUINE'. But the numerical grading is irrelevant with a coin as yours.
I'll trade you 90% US silver if you ever wish to go that route, certified or not. I have plenty of that. Just PM me.
Double Die,
I tried to PM you but I guess you are too new to the forum to rec. PM's.....Took coin to one of the best dealers in the area and got his opinion (authentic). He had a shipment going to PCGS this week. So I should have the coin back in about a month. When I get it back I will be glad to talk to you about a trade. Will post a thread when the coin arrivies....Thanks
If you like you can email me at taltexan12@gmail.com
I tried to PM you but I guess you are too new to the forum to rec. PM's.....Took coin to one of the best dealers in the area and got his opinion (authentic). He had a shipment going to PCGS this week. So I should have the coin back in about a month. When I get it back I will be glad to talk to you about a trade. Will post a thread when the coin arrivies....Thanks
If you like you can email me at taltexan12@gmail.com
FortuneFinder73
New member
Awesome find!!!! I have been looking for one of those for about mmmmmmm..... FOREVER!!! Please tell me your not new to detecting and that was your first 4 hrs with a metal detector........ everytime i dig a wheat, thats the one im looking for. Something was telling me to get an e trac..... Congratulations that is an awesome find!!!!!
LOL.....no fortunefinder I have been detecting awhile. I average about 15 hrs per week detecting but the heat here in Texas has really cut into my play time...... I have used the Explorer II, Se Pro and Etrac. I like the "E" better for coins. Sweep speed and target separation in trash is a plus for me.
I didn't change my opinion, you pulled a quote out of text because you mentioned you would start bid at $300.......and re-read what I said......"I am positive it would go way OVER $300 EASY" I am saying it would GO WAY OVER $300.........I still stick with my original post, on ebay, if he gets it slabbed, I believe it would be worth $900+DoubleDie said:Goes4ever said:WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd say that is an EASY $900 to $1000 wheat penny!!!!!!
Goes4ever said:
Now that's a change of opinion!
Thanks, G4E,
The coin is on it way to PCGS to be slabbed. They were not my first choice but the dealer was getting ready to ship several coins to them and said mine could tag along with very little shipping. The dealer was extremely nice and really busy. I waited for about an hour for the owner to look at the coin. Now this guy had coins everywhere, 100'+ of 4 tier display cases packed with everything from gold coins, Kennedy to capped bust in silver and coppers. My area was not really settled until the late 1850's so to find a seated coin is really special and I got to see first hand what you guys get a chance at every time you go out. I envy you guys that find the older silvers and coppers.
The coin is on it way to PCGS to be slabbed. They were not my first choice but the dealer was getting ready to ship several coins to them and said mine could tag along with very little shipping. The dealer was extremely nice and really busy. I waited for about an hour for the owner to look at the coin. Now this guy had coins everywhere, 100'+ of 4 tier display cases packed with everything from gold coins, Kennedy to capped bust in silver and coppers. My area was not really settled until the late 1850's so to find a seated coin is really special and I got to see first hand what you guys get a chance at every time you go out. I envy you guys that find the older silvers and coppers.