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NEED ADVICE on the F-75 dP (Delta Pitch) AUDIO :

Hi Guys, I've bought the F-75 LTD, and have been reading the Owners Manual several times, before i attempt to use it!! But, I'm trying to UNDERSTAND
some of the mode differences, ESPECIALLY the dP Mode (DELTA Pitch Audio Mode)!! If any of you that have Personal EXPERIENCE with this
mode would respond, i would appreciate it!! I know the Owners Manual says that the Audio Pitch VARIES ACCORDING to the Visual ID Numbers.
Is this ALOT LIKE the audio tones on the MINELAB EXCALS/SOVEREIGNS? Whereas, ALMOST ALL of your COINS have their OWN UNIQUE
AUDIO TONE, so that if you learn the tones, you can PRETTY MUCH know what your targets are BEFORE YOU DIG THEM!! The Tone ID'S are
NOT ALWAYS 100% Accurate, but they are about 90-95% of the time!! I am going to be using my F-75 LTD prettymuch for COINSHOOTING and
SOME RELIC HUNTING!! MANY THANKS for taking the time!! I fully understand the remaining F-75 Tone Modes!! Les Robinson
 
Namvet. I have the F75...Not the Ltd, but the F75. I use Delta Pitch 90% of the time when I am detecting with it. I have found that it is similar to the sounds of the Minelab Explorer Line...Kind of that high flute sound when passed over coins. If you watch enough videos on youtube.com of people using Minelab Explorers you will see what I mean. It is really an awesome setting for the F75. Especially if you like coinshooting. I have dug nice relics as well with it. Here lately I have pretty much been using my F75 strictly for relic hunting.
 
Namvet I've used the DP mode on my LTD and have tried to get used to it, but so far I've found less audio to be better on the LTD (too much information=audio fatugue/burnout). If I recall correctly there's a tone for each of all 100 TID #'s. I did not find DP to be anything like the audio on my Sovereign (which Iike very much).
 
I have a LTD and i use DP and love it. I relic hunt with this setup, BP o disc. With the 5 in. coil also. I found a Burnside bullet with this setup at 12 inches deep.This works great for coins to. just turn your disc. up when coin hunting if needed.
 
I find DP to be nothing like multi-tones on a Minelab. I find it hard to use. I usually use either 2F, 1 tone, or 4H on the F75 and the LTD. DP just seems odd to me, not musical to my ears. The F75 can be overwhelming with all the chirps and beeps anyway and DP is really overwhelming to me. The LTD doesn't seem to be quite as bad to me. I think it runs a little quieter in BP and CL at least with the small coil.

J
 
I use 2F usually , the DP is confusing to me. Its true i use high sens. Next i try DP again, and learn.

Julien, what a metal detector army? :))


jbow said:
IJulien in Cartersville, Georgia...

F75 LTD
Spectra V-3
E-Trac
Explorer SE
SovereignGT
Tejon
T2

J
 
I think it's really what tone(s) one gets used to. Use something enough or have success with it right off and you like it and continue to use it. Personally, I don't care for dp either, but some also say 3h and 4h tones is to much to handle...which are my favorite tones. HH jim tn
 
Jim, I primarily relic hunt, but while rehabing a knee injury, I have done some coin hunting on a football field. I got used to using 2 tones for relic hunting, but would also look for another "edge" to use. Since you are familiar with the 3 and 4 tones, just what might I gain in relic hunting and coin hunting by using the 3 or 4 tones on my F75 (not LTD) ? Do you use the the Target ID numbers in conjunction with the tones? Thanks in advance for any help that you or others may offer.
 
3h tones high tone alerts me to possible good coin targets when hunting very trashy spots. Which, most good coin hunting spots are. Also, 3h and 4h puts nickels into the high tone. Yes, I do check the tid numbers, but getting a small, but repeatable, high tone from among the low and mid tones is the deciding factor for digging. I say "small," as coins are small and more often then not, are slanted and or, completely on edge. Often, though, a good coin reading (number) will flash across the screen along with the trash number readings. Whether I am using 3h or 4h tones, if the age of the site has the potential for Indian Head cents and older types of coins, I investigate all mid tones, too. Of course, certain trash items, such as pull tab rings, tabs, bottle caps and so on, fall into the high tone range. Usually vdi readings are a little bouncy and they don't sound quite as clean as a coin. But, if I'm in doubt, I dig. When relic hunting, I do use 2f tones. Hope this helps a bit. HH jim tn
 
Interestingly the three Indian heads I've dug so far with the F75 LTD while using boost mode and 3H tones have come in as a high tone, but then again so have a few pull tabs :rant:

Using 2F tones over a spot that I'd just hit with 3H tones and thought I'd cleaned out, produced two more nickels :shrug:
 
I've not dug any IH's yet with the LTD, but have had them come in with both high and mid tones with the regular F 75. Some nickels, seemingly those slanted and on edge, will often come through with both high and mid tones...kind of broken, mixed, high and mid. Thats what makes detecting so interesting, as nothing is cast in stone. And, those willing to investigate different readings, can be rewarded. HH jim tn
 
Coins & general ... 1-tone, 2F, or 3H
Relic ... dP

I haven't figured what I like best or what's been working the best for me. I think I used the 3H the most, then 2F the 2nd most.
 
I love the variable tones on my minelabs, but use the 2 tone on my F75. And I swear there is a variable pitch difference even in the 2 tone - at least to me on my machine. I need to use my F75 more in the dp mode to see if I can get used to it, b/c I love audio variations as well as digital display info.
 
I'm gonna have to try the 3 and 4 tones the next time I visit the football field I've hunted a couple of times. I have dug several nickels there, but only because the TID locked in on them in the 30 - 33 range. I wonder also if I'm missing some good coins when the TID registers in the mid to high 50's..... but the bar graph tells me "Tab" ?
 
There are coins and the occasional gold ring that will id in the 50's, so one will always have the dilemma on whether to dig or not. How many of those readings that I personally dig has much to do with the age of the site. If the site was active in the 20's, 30's," and earlier, I am going dig some of those readings, particularly, if they have some depth to them. 40's-mid 60's era sites, I would dig very few of those readings. Some of those readings on sport fields, though, could be gold. Good luck, HH jim tn
 
Les,

If I am hunting for deep, high conductors in a trashy area, especially silver coins, Delta Pitch (DP) is my choice of mode. My reason is that in 3-H or 4 tones, modern dimes and silver dimes will sound exactly the same. In DP, silver coins are more musical, squeakier, higher-pitched than modern coins of the same denomination. Silver sounds more musical, songbird-like in DP, whereas, more modern coins at the same depth will sound more mechanical, like a doorbell (DING-DONG). Hard to describe the sounds in print, but you can take your machine and do a side-by-side test of silver coins vs non-silver in your yard and hear for yourself. After I'm done cherry-picking the old silver coins and wheat pennies out of a park, I might come back and begin to focus on deep mid-conductors, like Buffalo nickels, etc. I wish the F75 had a depth filter, where you could select only to hear targets that are below a certain depth. This would come in very handy at trashy parks. Good luck out there.

Jim
 
ziphius said:
I wish the F75 had a depth filter, where you could select only to hear targets that are below a certain depth. This would come in very handy at trashy parks. Good luck out there.

Jim

Jim I was hunting a San Francisco park today, in a trashy area, and I was thinking exactly the same thing, why not have adjustable depth discrimination so I hear targets at say 6" or deeper and don't have to listen to all the crap on the surface? One beef I have with the LTD is that the angle of the screen (for me at least) makes it difficult to see the small real time depth display (due to glare). It would be nice if future FT machines with this feature had an easier to read real time depth meter (if I recall correctly the T2 already has a better real time depth display).

At the last spot I was hunting I was running out of time, so I decided to turn the disc up to 60 in an attempt to cherry pick silver. What I found odd is that with the disc turned up that high, the LTD audio acts like it's constipated. It's difficult to describe, but the audio just sounds different, like it's trying, but just can't quite muster up a good tone on high conductors. Amazingly I was able to run boost mode with the sensitivity at 99 and it was very stable, but the audio left a lot to be desired.

I need to test delta pitch to hear how silver sounds compared to it's clad counterparts. If there's an easy to distinguish difference, that would be extremely beneficial, it might even give the etrac guys a run for their money :devil:
 
What you both are describing was made in some older Bounty Hunters...called surface blanking. You could set the depth from surface to a couple of inches and it would ignore shallow coins....was very handy in trashy parks.
scott
 
A audio mode that is using continuous sampling looks at both the leading, peak, and trailing ends of the target signal. Using high disc settings chop off part of that leading and trailing edge of the signal. Since continuous sampling doesn't include the additional cleanup filtering that peak sampling uses the audio will seem hesitant and a bit choppy. Fairly common phenomenon. I experienced it a lot with some Whites and Tesoro units.

If it really bothers you, just switch to a peak sampling audio mode.

HH
Mike
 
On your problem with glare, I had the same trouble. I took the cover off "The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Birds, Eastern Region. The cover is dark green, tough plastic and very flexible. I applied double sided tape around one edge of the book cover and applied the cover around the housing of the F75LTD starting at the bottom right and it reached to the top left. That stopped the glare problem.

Something else I was having a problem with was the detector turning over. I solved this by taking a carpenter's pencil and drilled two holes the width of the detector battery housing. Then I applied parbond to the bottom of the detector battery housing and stuck the pencil to the parbond and left it 24 hours. I also covered the pencil with electrical tape. So far it works much better. Parbond can be bought at Camping World. It is a type of rubber sealer that sticks very well but can be removed easily.
 
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