Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

stuck my fisher sunray probe on etrac

martinfabio

New member
hello i tried my fisher fx-1 sunray probe on my etrac it seems to work ok ive only tested it with air signals but works fine
can anyone see why i shouldnt do this.
 
Interested to find out!
Opens up new coil possibilities!

Sent an e mail to sunray,i will let you know if i hear something!
 
Did it require any type of adapter to the control housing?
 
no adaters or nothing i can see sunray saying no u cant do it they will want to make as much money as they can. the etrac got all different frequencys. in goint to try my other sef coils now let u know
how i get on cos when you open a coil its only wire in it no electrical boards or nothing.
 
I will be very interested to know. There would probably be some kind of coil mounting modification in order to use a Fisher.
 
i tried my 12x10 fisher sef coil the stem was too fat to fit on but it did work not as good i may say.i had to turn the threshold right up i did get the same
id numbers but the depth wasnt as good but i was only doing air tests so the sef coil wernt so good but the sunray probe works.
 
Could be the way the windings in the coil are configured.
 
interesting experiments. in sunray probe no electronics just copper wire what i saw when looked inside, but in coil are. its can work but you have to test and check wire positions in conectors.
 
thanks for thinking outside the box. I bet my S-1 probe would work on my E-TRAC if I ever needed it. I actually prefer the pocket uniprobe to the S-1 but I do have one and this is good info because sooner or later everything breaks. I may buy an extra upper shaft and give it a try just to see.


Julien
 
Speaking of mounting the SunRay Probes... Does anyone have instruction on how and where to cut the upper shaft if you wanted to do it yourself?
 
I have not done it but I think most people cut a hole on the underside near the top. I would find some sort of rubber grommet and make the hole so that the grommet will fit... something to keep the metal from rubbing on the cable. Something like this but big enough for the connector to fit through...

You might take the upper shaft and the coil to Grainger and and show them what you want to do. I bet they will have the solution (grommet) for protecting the cable.

J

rubber_grommets_big.jpg
 
Something secures the switch box to the stem so it would take more than just a grommet and a hole. The grommet would also hold the control bow away from the shaft.
 
I don't know but Ray may sell a SR probe ready shaft or at least have what you need or he might prepare the upper shaft for the probe if you send it to him.

J
 
The control housing is secured to the shaft by two pop rivets. There is a hole at the bottom of the control housing which is matched to a hole that has been drilled into the top of the shaft for the wire to run through. It appears to be insulated with some type of grommet and RTV combination.

As far as performance it will be determined by the number of coil windings on the probe itself, a different number of windings calibrated for the optimal signal for a particular model. All coils no matter the number of winding should in theory work on any detector, but may be affected on how the detector processes the signal produced.

If you want to mount the control box yourself you need to be cautious as to not drill the hole too far down the upper shaft as it will interfere with the lower shafts ability to fully retract. I ran into this problem when I modified the bottom of the upper shaft with a hole placed two and a half inch's before the control box so that I would be able to run the coil wire on the insides of the shafts and drop the connector through the hole to the control box. This way I would do away with having to wind the coil wire around the outside of the shafts as required after the probe upgrade. It had the desired effect I wanted however, now when I connect it this way I am unable to retract the lower shaft fully into the upper shaft.

Hope this helps

Q
 
LabradorBob said:
Interested to find out!
Opens up new coil possibilities!

Sent an e mail to sunray,i will let you know if i hear something!

Each probe that we make has the compatible detector models listed for each probe on that particular page on our website. If the detector coils are not compatible, then the probe will not be either. Any attempt to do what is being posted on that forum thread is discouraged by Sun Ray Detector Electronics and will VOID any warranty on the probe.

If all probes were interchangeable we could save a lot of money on R&D, different wire types and specs but they are not. Damage could occur to the detector as well because different conductors and wiring configurations are used depending on the detector the probe is designed for.

Ralph (Sun Ray)
 
i dont recommend anyone else doing it just in case of the warranty but i tried it out in the field and will still carryon using mine.

ps ralph the coil did work but not as much depth and why get angry
 
Hey Duke, Here is the link of a pic I cut in my upper shaft a year or two ago. It has to be @ least 1in long. The cut 2ins to 3ins from the probe box. As for any kind of grommet, the width of the cut has to take out most of the bottom side. So anything taking any width away with keep the connector from going through. Use a small round file to to round the cut and clean the cut inside. I heavely tape the straight section of the coil wire behind the connector and a circle of tape around the lower shaft for a stopp with electrical tape to keep to upper shaft from going in too far putting pressure on the cable wire. I've been using mine like this without any problems. I use a homemade wire hook with a handle to pull the connector through. A complete coil change might take a couple of minutes. I hope this helps. EddieB





http://www.findmall.com/read.php?63,940934,942130#msg-942130
 
Hey EddieB,

Great minds think alike, when I saw your picture I thought I was looking at my upper shaft! They look exactly the same. I like your idea for the lower shaft stop, I have been trying to come up with something to prevent accidental cable pinch during shaft retraction when I stow my detector. Now if I could just figure how to combat the lock tab wobble a lot of people complain about.

HH

Q
 
Top